having problems putting on jdm non srs steering wheel
here is a pic of what my car looks like:
this is the way the stock wheel looks:
this is the jdm one
you see when i take the stock wheel off, the stock one has 2 holes where it slips on to the stock hub. the jdm wheel doesnt have these 2 holes and doesnt go on. My question is am i missing something or what???? I need answers please ASAP!
this is the way the stock wheel looks:
this is the jdm one
you see when i take the stock wheel off, the stock one has 2 holes where it slips on to the stock hub. the jdm wheel doesnt have these 2 holes and doesnt go on. My question is am i missing something or what???? I need answers please ASAP!
here is a pic of what my car looks like:
That "SRS" thing has to come out before you put on the JDM wheels on.
That "SRS" thing has to come out before you put on the JDM wheels on.
and how do i take that off? and does the wheel i have look like the itr or is it maybe the ctr?
there should be 3 screw to hold that "SRS" thing.....unscrew them and it will come out.
If the back of your JDM wheels is exact same as your OEM wheels then you have the ITR one. I can't see too clear from your pic so I can't tell.
If the back of your JDM wheels is exact same as your OEM wheels then you have the ITR one. I can't see too clear from your pic so I can't tell.
Once you take the SRS hub off, it will go straight on, but prepare to lose your horn. The SRS light will stay on from now on as well.
Once you take the SRS hub off, it will go straight on, but prepare to lose your horn. The SRS light will stay on from now on as well.
Thanks,
Jon
Once you take the SRS hub off, it will go straight on, but prepare to lose your horn. The SRS light will stay on from now on as well.
Anyone know how to wire up the horn, and make the SRS light go off?
Thanks,
Jon
Anyone know how to wire up the horn, and make the SRS light go off?
Thanks,
Jon
-Ignition off: Short MES connector
-Ignition on: SRS comes on and then goes out. within 4 seconds open connector (remove short)
-SRS light comes on. Within 4 seconds short connector.
-SRS light goes out. Within 4 seconds open connector (remove short).
-SRS light blinks twice and goes off indication sysytem has been reset.
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Once you take the SRS hub off, it will go straight on, but prepare to lose your horn. The SRS light will stay on from now on as well.
Anyone know how to wire up the horn, and make the SRS light go off?
Thanks,
Jon
The entire process is outlined in section 23 of the helms manual. To do this you need to short the MES connector, which is the yellow connector that clips to the front of the interior fuseblock. Pull it out and short it with a service connector/paperclip and then it goes something like this...
-Ignition off: Short MES connector
-Ignition on: SRS comes on and then goes out. within 4 seconds open connector (remove short)
-SRS light comes on. Within 4 seconds short connector.
-SRS light goes out. Within 4 seconds open connector (remove short).
-SRS light blinks twice and goes off indication sysytem has been reset.
Anyone know how to wire up the horn, and make the SRS light go off?
Thanks,
Jon
The entire process is outlined in section 23 of the helms manual. To do this you need to short the MES connector, which is the yellow connector that clips to the front of the interior fuseblock. Pull it out and short it with a service connector/paperclip and then it goes something like this...
-Ignition off: Short MES connector
-Ignition on: SRS comes on and then goes out. within 4 seconds open connector (remove short)
-SRS light comes on. Within 4 seconds short connector.
-SRS light goes out. Within 4 seconds open connector (remove short).
-SRS light blinks twice and goes off indication sysytem has been reset.
Thanks,
Jon
The entire process is outlined in section 23 of the helms manual. To do this you need to short the MES connector, which is the yellow connector that clips to the front of the interior fuseblock. Pull it out and short it with a service connector/paperclip and then it goes something like this...
-Ignition off: Short MES connector
-Ignition on: SRS comes on and then goes out. within 4 seconds open connector (remove short)
-SRS light comes on. Within 4 seconds short connector.
-SRS light goes out. Within 4 seconds open connector (remove short).
-SRS light blinks twice and goes off indication sysytem has been reset.
-Ignition off: Short MES connector
-Ignition on: SRS comes on and then goes out. within 4 seconds open connector (remove short)
-SRS light comes on. Within 4 seconds short connector.
-SRS light goes out. Within 4 seconds open connector (remove short).
-SRS light blinks twice and goes off indication sysytem has been reset.
Isn't this only to reset your SRS light? Will this still work for putting on an aftermarket wheel? Can something be done to keep the pass. side airbag functional when using an aftermarket wheel?
Yes, you can. Once the driver's airbag has been removed, measure the resistance across the plug with an ohmeter and then replace the now empty plug with a resistor of the same value. I don't know what this value is because I have never done it before, and I don't know how accurate it must be, but I know it will work. You may need to put in a network (more then 1) of resistors to achieve a more precise resistance in order for the SRS ECU to accept it. If you get it wrong the SRS light will come on and all airbags will be deactivated. Be sure to reset the system as described above and turn the car back off and on and notice the SRS come on during "startup" and go out as it normally would.
John, there are a few different ways to do it.
Here's a couple explanations:
From Moosilla:
From Koy:
Here's a couple explanations:
From Moosilla:
On the ribbon cable assembly there will ba connection for the horn ... using a spade lug tap into the connector and run a couple feet of wire. Tape the wire to the ribbon cable assembly and make sure you tape the ribbon cable assembly together so the ribbon cable does not spill out . Now carefully move the whole assembly under the dash(out of the way) and tape it to a convinient metal x-brace.
There are three or four mounting "stubs" that the ribbon cable originally screwed into (on the steering column). Get a small peice of plexiglass or lexan, cut a slightly oversized hole to alllow the splined steering "shaft" to pass through,trim the size of the lexan so that the lexan piece just covers the stubs, and mark, and drill holes that line up with the stubs.
Now take the wire that you attached to the horn connection on the ribbon cable assembly, run it up the steering column (keep it loose to that it does not bind ....strip back about 6-8" of the insulation.
Drill some holes , in a circular patttern arround the steering "shaft" into the lexan peice and thread the bare wire in and out of the holes. Drill these additional holes so that the bare wire (that sticks up) will make contact with horn ring contact strip on the bottom of the steering wheel. then screw the lexan plate to the mounting stubs
Mount the steering wheel, Connect the horn buttons wire to the horn-ring connection on the steering wheel.
So when you turn the steering wheel the bare wire that you threaded through the lexan will make contact with circular contact on the bottom of the steering wheel, as you turn the steering wheel it will continue to make contact, so now the horn button will be connected to the horn circuit. The Steering wheel itself will provide the ground to compete the circuit
I hope this makes sense.
There are three or four mounting "stubs" that the ribbon cable originally screwed into (on the steering column). Get a small peice of plexiglass or lexan, cut a slightly oversized hole to alllow the splined steering "shaft" to pass through,trim the size of the lexan so that the lexan piece just covers the stubs, and mark, and drill holes that line up with the stubs.
Now take the wire that you attached to the horn connection on the ribbon cable assembly, run it up the steering column (keep it loose to that it does not bind ....strip back about 6-8" of the insulation.
Drill some holes , in a circular patttern arround the steering "shaft" into the lexan peice and thread the bare wire in and out of the holes. Drill these additional holes so that the bare wire (that sticks up) will make contact with horn ring contact strip on the bottom of the steering wheel. then screw the lexan plate to the mounting stubs
Mount the steering wheel, Connect the horn buttons wire to the horn-ring connection on the steering wheel.
So when you turn the steering wheel the bare wire that you threaded through the lexan will make contact with circular contact on the bottom of the steering wheel, as you turn the steering wheel it will continue to make contact, so now the horn button will be connected to the horn circuit. The Steering wheel itself will provide the ground to compete the circuit
I hope this makes sense.
make a lil contact piece for the back of the wheel,connect it to wire for horn.
it brushes back of wheel...other wire connects like normal with spade connector to horn button on wheel...just like stock, when you press horn button---it honks
it brushes back of wheel...other wire connects like normal with spade connector to horn button on wheel...just like stock, when you press horn button---it honks
John, there are a few different ways to do it.
Here's a couple explanations:
From Moosilla:
On the ribbon cable assembly there will ba connection for the horn ... using a spade lug tap into the connector and run a couple feet of wire. Tape the wire to the ribbon cable assembly and make sure you tape the ribbon cable assembly together so the ribbon cable does not spill out . Now carefully move the whole assembly under the dash(out of the way) and tape it to a convinient metal x-brace.
There are three or four mounting "stubs" that the ribbon cable originally screwed into (on the steering column). Get a small peice of plexiglass or lexan, cut a slightly oversized hole to alllow the splined steering "shaft" to pass through,trim the size of the lexan so that the lexan piece just covers the stubs, and mark, and drill holes that line up with the stubs.
Now take the wire that you attached to the horn connection on the ribbon cable assembly, run it up the steering column (keep it loose to that it does not bind ....strip back about 6-8" of the insulation.
Drill some holes , in a circular patttern arround the steering "shaft" into the lexan peice and thread the bare wire in and out of the holes. Drill these additional holes so that the bare wire (that sticks up) will make contact with horn ring contact strip on the bottom of the steering wheel. then screw the lexan plate to the mounting stubs
Mount the steering wheel, Connect the horn buttons wire to the horn-ring connection on the steering wheel.
So when you turn the steering wheel the bare wire that you threaded through the lexan will make contact with circular contact on the bottom of the steering wheel, as you turn the steering wheel it will continue to make contact, so now the horn button will be connected to the horn circuit. The Steering wheel itself will provide the ground to compete the circuit
I hope this makes sense.
From Koy:
make a lil contact piece for the back of the wheel,connect it to wire for horn.
it brushes back of wheel...other wire connects like normal with spade connector to horn button on wheel...just like stock, when you press horn button---it honks
Here's a couple explanations:
From Moosilla:
On the ribbon cable assembly there will ba connection for the horn ... using a spade lug tap into the connector and run a couple feet of wire. Tape the wire to the ribbon cable assembly and make sure you tape the ribbon cable assembly together so the ribbon cable does not spill out . Now carefully move the whole assembly under the dash(out of the way) and tape it to a convinient metal x-brace.
There are three or four mounting "stubs" that the ribbon cable originally screwed into (on the steering column). Get a small peice of plexiglass or lexan, cut a slightly oversized hole to alllow the splined steering "shaft" to pass through,trim the size of the lexan so that the lexan piece just covers the stubs, and mark, and drill holes that line up with the stubs.
Now take the wire that you attached to the horn connection on the ribbon cable assembly, run it up the steering column (keep it loose to that it does not bind ....strip back about 6-8" of the insulation.
Drill some holes , in a circular patttern arround the steering "shaft" into the lexan peice and thread the bare wire in and out of the holes. Drill these additional holes so that the bare wire (that sticks up) will make contact with horn ring contact strip on the bottom of the steering wheel. then screw the lexan plate to the mounting stubs
Mount the steering wheel, Connect the horn buttons wire to the horn-ring connection on the steering wheel.
So when you turn the steering wheel the bare wire that you threaded through the lexan will make contact with circular contact on the bottom of the steering wheel, as you turn the steering wheel it will continue to make contact, so now the horn button will be connected to the horn circuit. The Steering wheel itself will provide the ground to compete the circuit
I hope this makes sense.
From Koy:
make a lil contact piece for the back of the wheel,connect it to wire for horn.
it brushes back of wheel...other wire connects like normal with spade connector to horn button on wheel...just like stock, when you press horn button---it honks
You guys should really do a search...
Official HOW TO MAKE THE HORN WORK WHEN USING A JDM NON-SRS STEERING WHEEL.
Here's the link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=273474
Official HOW TO MAKE THE HORN WORK WHEN USING A JDM NON-SRS STEERING WHEEL.
Here's the link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=273474
You guys should really do a search...
Official HOW TO MAKE THE HORN WORK WHEN USING A JDM NON-SRS STEERING WHEEL.
Here's the link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=273474
Official HOW TO MAKE THE HORN WORK WHEN USING A JDM NON-SRS STEERING WHEEL.
Here's the link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=273474
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