Injectors stuck open CRX
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Injectors stuck open CRX
so I bought 15 feet off 2 gauge wire from orileys and decided to relocate my battery on my crx.
I have an 88 HF crx with a b16a obd1 in it. I have it using a jumper harness to the ecu.
I re wireed the battery to the trunk. I also relocated the fuse box to the pass. side floor board.
As I was almost done I wanted to tuck more wire into the car to hide them and give a cleaner look. so I unplugged the engine harness from the interior harness and pushed it threw the firewall and replugged it. I went to crank the car on and I hear the injectors prime but never hear the click when its done. I walk over to the engine and I hear the injectors still spraying so I disconnect the battery. I recconect and same thing happens. after all this i replaced everyting to the oem places. I try to start the car and I hear the injectors again. I see the yellow egr wire that I belive is not supposed to be pinned in when you switch from 0bd0 HF to 0bd1 b16. I connect the wire to a ground and the injectors stop. A minute later and the injectors come back on. I dont know if the wire is shorting it out or what.
also the first time i tryed cranking the car it started then died. the injectors filled up the cylinders so much that the plugs got wet and the next time i tryed to start it , it just cranked and cranked no spark. NOW when I try to crank it the wire that goes to the + terminal from the starter gets very hot and a spark is shot from where it connects to the starter. It sounds like the car is low in battery even when I used a new battery and the wire gets so hot I see smoke and hear hissing from the starter area. any help? thanks guys!
I have an 88 HF crx with a b16a obd1 in it. I have it using a jumper harness to the ecu.
I re wireed the battery to the trunk. I also relocated the fuse box to the pass. side floor board.
As I was almost done I wanted to tuck more wire into the car to hide them and give a cleaner look. so I unplugged the engine harness from the interior harness and pushed it threw the firewall and replugged it. I went to crank the car on and I hear the injectors prime but never hear the click when its done. I walk over to the engine and I hear the injectors still spraying so I disconnect the battery. I recconect and same thing happens. after all this i replaced everyting to the oem places. I try to start the car and I hear the injectors again. I see the yellow egr wire that I belive is not supposed to be pinned in when you switch from 0bd0 HF to 0bd1 b16. I connect the wire to a ground and the injectors stop. A minute later and the injectors come back on. I dont know if the wire is shorting it out or what.
also the first time i tryed cranking the car it started then died. the injectors filled up the cylinders so much that the plugs got wet and the next time i tryed to start it , it just cranked and cranked no spark. NOW when I try to crank it the wire that goes to the + terminal from the starter gets very hot and a spark is shot from where it connects to the starter. It sounds like the car is low in battery even when I used a new battery and the wire gets so hot I see smoke and hear hissing from the starter area. any help? thanks guys!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Missouri
Re: Injectors stuck open CRX
Wow, well I would have to actually look at your setup to see what you actually did with the wiring here but here's what i'll tell you to look at.......your injectors "should" be fairly easy to diagnose. It sounds like when you tried to "tuck" your wires your grounded the ground wire for your injectors so they have constant 12v engergizing them the whole time. Your injectors actually should have 12v of power the entire time your key is on, your ECU is what flips your ground off and on to "pulse" them, so if it has a path to ground thats NOT your ECU they will constantly stay energized. As for your battery i'd have to take a look at the relocation wiring you did. But did you take your plugs out and try to crank your car or leave them in? If you left them in and had that much gas in your cylinders you can actually hydro-lock and ruin your motor. So take your plugs out completely (all of them) and unplug your fuel injectors (all of them) and try to crank your car again......Hopefully your car will crank and sray tons of fuel out of the plug holes
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,103
Likes: 0
From: Tustin, CA, USA
Re: Injectors stuck open CRX
Wow, well I would have to actually look at your setup to see what you actually did with the wiring here but here's what i'll tell you to look at.......your injectors "should" be fairly easy to diagnose. It sounds like when you tried to "tuck" your wires your grounded the ground wire for your injectors so they have constant 12v engergizing them the whole time. Your injectors actually should have 12v of power the entire time your key is on, your ECU is what flips your ground off and on to "pulse" them, so if it has a path to ground thats NOT your ECU they will constantly stay energized. As for your battery i'd have to take a look at the relocation wiring you did. But did you take your plugs out and try to crank your car or leave them in? If you left them in and had that much gas in your cylinders you can actually hydro-lock and ruin your motor. So take your plugs out completely (all of them) and unplug your fuel injectors (all of them) and try to crank your car again......Hopefully your car will crank and sray tons of fuel out of the plug holes
I would just undo EVERYTHING you did, and replace it back to normal try to start it and if it does then keep it that way and read a DIY before trying it again or not do it at all. Definitely try to control yourself so you don't hydro-lock like he said though.
PS: Hydro-lock is when there's sh*t in the cylinders that is incompressible. Which leads to bent connecting rods
Originally Posted by WIKIPEDIA
If an engine hydrolocks while at speed a mechanical failure may occur. Common damage modes include bent or broken connecting rods, a fractured head, a fractured block, crankcase damage, damaged rod bearings, damaged seals, or any combination of these. Forces absorbed by other interconnected components may cause additional damage. Physical damage to metal parts will manifest in a "crashing" or "screeching" sound and usually requires replacement of the engine or a substantial rebuild of its major components.
If an engine hydrolocks while idling or under low power conditions, the engine may stop suddenly with no immediate damage. In this case the engine can be purged by unscrewing the spark plugs or injectors and spinning the engine to expel the liquid from the combustion chambers. Depending on how the liquid was introduced to the engine, it possibly can be restarted and dried out with normal combustion heat, or it may require more work, such as flushing out corrupted operating fluids and replacing damaged gaskets.
If a cylinder fills with liquid while the engine is turned off, the engine will refuse to turn when a starting cycle is attempted. Since the starter mechanism's torque is normally much lower than the engine's operating torque, this will usually not produce damage as long as the operator does not continue with the attempt. The engine can be drained as above and restarted. If a corrosive substance such as water has been in the engine long enough to cause rusting, more extensive repairs will be required.
If an engine hydrolocks while idling or under low power conditions, the engine may stop suddenly with no immediate damage. In this case the engine can be purged by unscrewing the spark plugs or injectors and spinning the engine to expel the liquid from the combustion chambers. Depending on how the liquid was introduced to the engine, it possibly can be restarted and dried out with normal combustion heat, or it may require more work, such as flushing out corrupted operating fluids and replacing damaged gaskets.
If a cylinder fills with liquid while the engine is turned off, the engine will refuse to turn when a starting cycle is attempted. Since the starter mechanism's torque is normally much lower than the engine's operating torque, this will usually not produce damage as long as the operator does not continue with the attempt. The engine can be drained as above and restarted. If a corrosive substance such as water has been in the engine long enough to cause rusting, more extensive repairs will be required.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Re: Injectors stuck open CRX
I check the wiering today. undid everything!. I messed with the main relay and it stoped spraying at full. but when I connected the wires back into the injectors, they still spray. I took out the spark plugs and shot out all the gas. im going to try another p28 tomarro to see if mine was blown up.
the reason I broght up the egr is because the yellow wire for egr is for an hf. wheen you swap to obd1 si there is no use for the wire anymore.it just kinda floats alone..thats what im told i may be wrong.
the reason I broght up the egr is because the yellow wire for egr is for an hf. wheen you swap to obd1 si there is no use for the wire anymore.it just kinda floats alone..thats what im told i may be wrong.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Re: Injectors stuck open CRX
could it be ecu? the CEL stays on even when the test code wires are touched. also behind the intake manifold there is a yellow with red stripe wire that is broken. I dont know where it goes
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Missouri
Re: Injectors stuck open CRX
I suppose your ecu COULD be leaving your grounds on but for it to simulatniously freeze with all 4 connected.....anyones guess. If you don't honestly know what you're doing with wiring and a DMM take it to someone who does before you really screw your motor over something relatively small.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JdmFr0g
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
1
Aug 9, 2008 10:19 PM
