So in Portland the last two days its been pretty toasty outside 85-90ish and I have noticed my ECT's getting pretty toasty above the norm "at least from what Ive seen"

So my setup is a stock H22A with a half size radiator about 2 inches thick... some off brand then I have the fan in front of the radiator since i can kinda cram it between the frame of the car and when the radiator is tightened down I don't need to use the lame radiator fan plastic bits to keep it in place.

I have a Neptune ECU with Tunerview to view engine stats.. I have my fan kick on at 180 degrees and the map I'm using I have it pull timing after 180degrees something like 3-4 degrees from 180-200 degrees ECT because I notice when its hot and I get into higher rpms i hear the dreaded BB's

I believe at top end I'm running something like 31-32 deg Timing.




So couple questions should i go to a full size radiator? or are there other things I can do to improve cooling? Have the fan come on sooner? use more antifreeze.. and less water in the mix? water wetter?.... higher pressure cap? tossing out ideas here.

Note* -- When I drive and its 55-75 outside the car seems to never go above 182 degrees ECT, but in stop and go traffic when its hotter it skyrockets, last night it was 196 degrees

other question is which seems to be hard to find what sort of IAT/ECT ignition corrections are standard..."if that's even a valid question"

like how hot should an h22 or any engine be run, when to start pulling timing because its overheating...when is the engine overheating... Humor me I'm all ears..


Thanks,
--Aaron

 

the motor is going to get hotter in stop and go since you aren't flowing air over the radiator. if you are concerned about temps put some water wetter in the radiator.

 

run a switch to the fan

 

You probably read my post too quickly...I have my fan kick on at 180 degrees.


--Aaron

 

192-205*F is typical operating conditions for just about any engine. I never have it pull timing except for the last ECT compensation (250*F i believe) i'll set it to retard a few degrees just in case it does start to over heat. It will simply interpolate between 0-4 degree retard.

your cooling system is working perfectly as it should. Add the timing back to your compensation (set it to 0 for ~180*) and take the timing out of the map. Then get on a dyno and tune the ignition properly.
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Thanks.

It has been on a dyno for 2 hours but we really didnt really really fine tune it, usually you can take a car to the dyno but all the kinks dont get worked out of it untill you drive it for a while in all sorts of different conditions, when I tuned the car it was march, now its hotter outside and I notice more things.

I could probably get away with taking 1-1.5 degrees out of the map and go from there and leave the compensation values alone.

Any other advice? "from anyone"

--Aaron

 

being hotter outside does not effect ECT's all that much (thats the point of a cooling system), however, you need to pay more attention to your IAT ignition compensation.

are you sure you are getting detonation? do the spark plugs confirm this or are you guessing?
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I can hear slight BB sounds from high load heavy acceleration at the top end.

I have not pulled the plugs out and confirmed.

 

As long as your ects really are not constantly over 205 I wouldn't worry about it.
Concerning your detonation issues, make sure your ignition timing is synced to the neptune.
Try backing your ignition timing maps down 3 degrees or so until you can dial in everything on a dyno etc.

 

Howdy Ive chatted with you before, in your experience what kind of total timing are you running at WOT on H22A's JDM version? I'll have to check when I get home but I believe I have 32* running 12.5:1 in vtec.

--Aaron

 

i ran 34* peak with neptune. The engine flowed pretty well with the EuroR IM and RMF header tho.
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I see! the rmf header is nuts.

What kind of hp did it put out?

Mine was 169.8 145 tq.. id imagine yours did 10-15 hp more and probably 5-10 ish more tq?

--Aaron

I have the stock IM with the IAB butterflies removed "not hollowed out" and some GREEDY header thats good for +5... +5 what I am un sure of.

 

cant really compare the numbers but it made 188whp/152tq. Never ran it at the track with that power, but i went 14.0@97mph with 173whp/137tq. I believe i was running 30* with that setup. My h23vtec with ~12:1 compression ran 30ish*.
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Well I probably should ... well screw it when I get my 200DX tig Ill just make a set of headers..

I was going to cut the greddy headers apart and use the flange as a base to make a possible turbo manifold...

Oh well thanks for the info!