ITR no spark, cut harness (pic)
Hello all.
A buddy of mine just recently purchased a used itr. While he was driving it, the motor suddenly stalled out of no where. All lights and electronics were working fine, but the car stalled and hasn't started since. The car cranks fine, gets fuel, just no spark (plugs and wires are new). After a bit of reading through this forum, we came to the conclusion it's probably something dizzy/coil related. Additionally, the coil's resistance test came up within spec, but we read a few times that bad coil's still can test alright.
We purchased a new gsr dizzy cap from autozone, because it's all they had in stock. It didn't line up, the cap was a few mm off. So we then went and exchanged it for an LS non-vtec cap, and it fit! Not quite sure what this meant, but still no spark. We then replaced the Coil with one from an obd1 gsr dizzy out of boredom, but still no spark.
I looked up online that GSR/ITR Obd2 dizzy's have p/n td81u-td87u or something like that. Well our dizzy has no p/n or markings on it. So were not sure what it's from, nor how to identify it. So I guess were going to try to get our hands on an obd2 vtec dizzy to swap and see if that does it, otherwise were out of ideas.
----------------------------
On a side note. The car starting and running fine before the the last stall is kind of odd to us since what seems to be 2 chunks of the engine harness is in ... abnormal condition. Anyone know what these areas of connectors are in regards to?
I'm just looking for some idea's on what the no spark could be caused by, or what the harnesses could be effecting.
This first pic is from the right in front of the battery area.

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Another Angle

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This pic is near the clutch reservoir

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Go here for Huge pictures:
http://img149.imageshack.us/g/typerwiring004.jpg/
Sorry for the lengthy post, but a non-running ITR in the summer time is a shame.
Thanks for looking.
A buddy of mine just recently purchased a used itr. While he was driving it, the motor suddenly stalled out of no where. All lights and electronics were working fine, but the car stalled and hasn't started since. The car cranks fine, gets fuel, just no spark (plugs and wires are new). After a bit of reading through this forum, we came to the conclusion it's probably something dizzy/coil related. Additionally, the coil's resistance test came up within spec, but we read a few times that bad coil's still can test alright.
We purchased a new gsr dizzy cap from autozone, because it's all they had in stock. It didn't line up, the cap was a few mm off. So we then went and exchanged it for an LS non-vtec cap, and it fit! Not quite sure what this meant, but still no spark. We then replaced the Coil with one from an obd1 gsr dizzy out of boredom, but still no spark.
I looked up online that GSR/ITR Obd2 dizzy's have p/n td81u-td87u or something like that. Well our dizzy has no p/n or markings on it. So were not sure what it's from, nor how to identify it. So I guess were going to try to get our hands on an obd2 vtec dizzy to swap and see if that does it, otherwise were out of ideas.
----------------------------
On a side note. The car starting and running fine before the the last stall is kind of odd to us since what seems to be 2 chunks of the engine harness is in ... abnormal condition. Anyone know what these areas of connectors are in regards to?
I'm just looking for some idea's on what the no spark could be caused by, or what the harnesses could be effecting.
This first pic is from the right in front of the battery area.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Another Angle

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
This pic is near the clutch reservoir

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Go here for Huge pictures:
http://img149.imageshack.us/g/typerwiring004.jpg/
Sorry for the lengthy post, but a non-running ITR in the summer time is a shame.
Thanks for looking.
did u have your igniter tested? autozone calls it the ignition control module. for the obd2 gsr distributor the quote they gave me was like 150 or something crazy like that. from what i noticed the obd2 gsr and itr dizzy is the only igniter thats not mounted on the dizzy when you take off the cap. its mounted through the distributor with two very small phillips screws.
oh i should have mentioned the igniter can be tested at autozone
oh i should have mentioned the igniter can be tested at autozone
Like posted above, make sure you test a different ignitor before you spend the money on a new dist. But jsut to let you know this year mtself and a buddy's dist went out and it was not the coil or ignitor. I assume the pickups inside failed or something like that. Your best bet is to borrow a friend's dist and try his ignitor and coil individually. If that doesn't work try his dist as a whole.
Yea, i believe that's the plan right now to find someone to let us use theirs. Any clue as to why an LS cap would fit and not a gsr?
Thanks for the responses guys.
Thanks for the responses guys.
You might end up spending more money because your original 'fix' added to the problem at hand.
+1 to the OEM cap route. I can't explain why the GSR cap would be different but I've had it happen to me as well. I think the Advance Auto Parts cap fit and the Autozone cap didn't. They are just poor quality really so it makes sense the fitment would be off.
another option you can consider is buying a whole new dizzy. ive bought 3from this guy 2obd1 and an obd2 vtec dizzys and havent had a problem in 2years. the parts stores dizzys always fail within a year.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
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