Ok I have a 00 Civic Si, and I am currently fixing to start my first all motor build. Ok I have a few questions to get started.

I have got my stage 2 cams, titanium valves, springs and retainers all Skunk2.

1. What kind of head and block work should I do if any?

2. I found a set of wiseco pistons I was told they were 82mm, 11.25to1 ratio, so would this be a good way to go and if so with what block work?

3. I'm looking to get cam gears, intake manifold,fuel rail,and throttle body all Skunk2. Should there be any other parts other than what I have and what I am getting that I should look into?

4. If the pistons are a way to go I would assume I need to do rods?

I am looking at a set of arp head studs and rod bolts now. Thanks in advance and looking forward to getting some good help with my first build.

 

1. Are you staying with the B16 engine? or going with a hybrid of some sort? For s2 stage 2 camshaft, keep it simple with a nice port cleanup, 3 angle valve job for the new valves, and don't touch the valveguides unless something is wrong. (if it ain't broke, don't fix it)

If you plan to use a different block than the original, have the cylinder head slightly resurfaced. Only about .005" or so. Since this is your first build, right now you don't need to try and over-mill the head to add compression to it, which is popular. Since you haven't stated if you have more than 91 octane available in your area, I recommend staying at 11.0:1 or so for those cams. The valvesprings & retainers are a plus, so that's good.

2. Well, its best to stay 81.25 or 81.5 if possible. 82mm is as far as you can go on stock sleeves without having to go aftermarket. It will be required that in order to fit those pistons you machine the block (by way of hone/bore/cross-hatch the cylinders to accept those pistons.

Using which block is on you. If you stay with the b16 block, you'll have high revolutions and very little torque, but you'll have the most options with a GS-r block. You can use an LS or B20 crank (with matching length rods either reconditioned OEM or aftermarket), to make 30ft/lbs of additional torque, or you can keep the GS-R Crank ( with aftermarket or OEM re-con'd rods) and make slightly more torque than a b16 with 9500rpm redline (there's no need to go 10K rpms, as you won't make any power by that level. (I'm not going to get into the rod/stroke ratio debate, I'm simply giving viable options). See my wife's build on page 1 for specs of an example. (https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/project-em1-shodan-goes-na-2458563/)

3. Out of that list here, you don't need the fuel rail at all, there's no need to change something if it doesn't need to be fixed. Also, depending upon the goal, there's no real need for a new intake manifold other than a Type R. A Victor X or similar type would be a waste of time as the plenum is too large and runners too short for an NA build. Larger sized injectors would be good to go with real engine management. This means no use of the V-AFC. If going for a throttle body, there's no need to go bigger than 68mm, as you want to keep the scavaging velocity rather high.

4. Rods are on your budget. I recommend using ARP rod bolts regardless. Aftermarket rods such as eagle come with them, but you can also get OEM rods have them shot-peen and reconditioned to fit with ARP bolts so that you can get the right bearings the first time. Using OEM or Aftermarket is subject to debate so don't ask "which is better", because there is no RIGHT answer, only opinions. Just get them BEFORE you give them to the machinist. Its best to have them balance the whole assembly and do all of this at once.

Lastly. THINK BEFORE YOU PURCHASE. there's nothing worse than not having a final plan on what you want to do and get distracted because you think you can do "better". Make a plan and stick with it. that way there are no regrets. Remember. Most opinions are based on what other people would do with YOUR resources and YOUR money, and not what YOU want to do with it. so be careful when looking at OPINIONs.

 

Yeah I would like to stay with regular pump gas. I was thinking about going with a GSR block. But like I said this is my first time building a motor so I don't really know alot about it. I'm just starting my research, to find out what I am looking for.

Thanks for the input and help. I just wasn't sure about what I kind of machine work I was looking for to do on the head and block.

So if I stay with 81.25 or 81.5 pistons that would be better than the 82mm pistons? I was looking to get the block worked on either way just to be better off I guess.

And if I go with aftermarket pistons do you have to go with aftermarket rods or can factory still work?

Thanks for the advice I appreciate it