what the title says, pretty much...thanks

 

What are you trying to say here? isn't it Governed at 8.5k for AP2?

 

I know that, I look down at my dash everyday, Im asking if anyone has gone pass 8.5k...prepare for a long story...ok I had a f20c but blew the head, swapped in a complete f22c, buddy bent 2 valves, purchased another f22c from honda, rebuilt the f22c with bent valves with all stock parts, so how I have a f20c block and a f22c head in my garage...hahahahaha...I want to know if the f20c block and the f22c head see higher than 9.2k safely...and if no what needs to be done outside of the engine management stuff...plan is to put this engine into a completely gutted rolling body S

 

To more accurately answer your question you will need to know that the cams in any f series motor stop making power about 200 rpm before the rev limiter anyhow, so any revving past 9k will just be useless without a more agressive cam profile and a valve train to support the cams. But I have seen many ap2 owners rev to 9 on a f22 stock head so I'd say you will be ok up to 9k revving any stock f series valvetrain

 

yes that too I know, power drops off right around 8.3k for the f20c, maybe this will help yall understand, I know stock cams wont carry power past 8.3k, but with the valves, springs, retainers, seats, etc. hold up? how many rpm can they take til they fail?

 

Anything over 9k there are no guarantees your valves will most likeley begin to float on the stock springs

 

10250rpm on the F20c is when valves start tapping the piston, so I was thinking it might have changed for the f22c...

 

there is also the option od de-stroking it...not my cup of tea

 

reason for doing this is I want to keep motor na for track, and I'm looking for a way to stay in vtec but at a higher point...Ive seen an S rev to 12k in PR and my cousin in savannah said all you need done is headwork so I was just asking questions,I know more power will come with cams blah blah blah,lighter valves work as well...

 

Try it out if you can afford another motor if it let's go. You might be sucessful with it.

 

Do it the correct way. you dont need head work (as in pnp) valvetrain and cams and have fun.

 

You ALSO need to consider the bottom end. Spinning a motor that fast has more to do than the head, although that is still important.

I spun my to 8500 pretty often, but never hit 9k, although thats the next tune. For me it's about extending my already short gears for boost and trapping a little higher.

 

There's an AP1 revving to 12k, and a handful of AP2s revving to 9.5k. It can be done but with the proper machine work and parts.

- Fully balanced rotating assembly
- Lightened rods, pistons, and flywheel (Crower Maxi-Light rods and CP pistons)
- Titanium retainers and dual valve springs
- Ported intake manifold and throttle body
- A GOOD pair of camshafts
- A really good machine shop and assembler

In the end you're looking at a fat bill and a motor that is very high maintenance. Most titanium retainers need to be replaced every 10k miles and you'll want to pick bearings that suit the build as well and those will wear faster also. You'll also want to stay on top of valve adjustments because anything getting too lose is going to cause a grenaded motor. A part of that list that often gets overlooked is the intake manifold. On an AP2 build I saw that damn IM was a huge bottleneck. The heads are really good on this motor as stock so minimal work needs done there.

 

sweet thank you for the information, I knew it could be done but I couldnt really put my finger on the "how to do" part again thank you all