I'm needing to replace the bolts where the "downpipe" connects to the rest of the exhaust under the car, where the spring bolts go. One fell off and the other one is messed up because I'm retarded. (Got frustrated with trying to make everything fit and grinded off part of the bolt)

Any ideas on getting replacement bolts or making it easier to actually hook up? I remember I was having major issues getting both bolts on. I may just run to the junkyard and look for some replacements tomorrow or something. Btw it's a D16Y8 header connecting to stock exhaust on a 1996 DX Civic.

 

I'm in the same boat... bump for info!!!

 

Yes please I miss having a quiet car..

 

just get new bolts from honda, they are tricky to get on sometimes but if your patient you will get them. if you got a friend that can push them in so that the spring is compressed then screw the nut on

gl

 

get it either from honda or vibrant(cheaper i think). lil patience and some help and it'll go back in.

 

clamp the two flanges with a vise grip then put your bolt with spring on and tighten that mother! its so easy a caveman can do it!

 

exhaust bolts? Why not just get new grade-8 nuts, bolts, and washers from the hardware store? You can get springs from the junkyard for next to nothing, but I'd upgrade exhaust bolts while you have it apart.

Normally, I'm all for using official Honda hardware, but there's no reason not to use hardware store bolts on exhaust. The grade-8s are stronger and more corrosion resistant than the stock bolts.

That's what I used after I had to grind every bolt off of my cat. Now, 2 years later, and my grade-8s still look brand new. Sure, they're not metric, but if you get the right size, you can get close enough to use a 14mm on them.

 

only question i have is do they need that space in em or can you just use ones that have thread all the way up?

 

you can use the ones that have thread all the way up.

 

Because if you use those without the little stopper washer like 3/4 the way down it will be ineffective.. especially if the spring is compressed all the way down. I went to the junkyard and got some muffler bolts from an EG and header bolts from a 91 CRX SI. I think the CRX ones will work perfect although the EG ones are a little bit longer which would make threading them easier. And for some reason I thought I tried clamping the two flanges together and for some reason it didn't make it any easier.

 

Lol

 

why? because those springs are used so that your header doesnt crack when the motor moves. Without those springs or a flex pipe, your header or piping will surely crack. This sounds like a good idea ONLY if you have a welded on flex pipe. If not then you need to use those spring bolts.

 

02318231-SR3-J01BOLT A, FLEXIBLE JOINT1996CIVIC10.177.12
02118230-SA0-930SPRING, FLEXIBLE JOINT1996CIVIC4.723.30
03390115-659-003NUT, SELF-LOCK (8MM) (CLINCH)1996CIVIC0.350.25
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...EXHAUST%20PIPE

here are the part numbers for the OP, looks like it will cost you about $30 for 2 springs 2 bolts and 2 nuts(lol) , if you still got the springs you can save some cash

gl

 

if i'm not mistaken auto stores like Auto-shone and Anvanced auto farts got honda exhaust bolts in their "HELP" part section ... scope it on you next visit. You could use some high temp anti seize to avoid the problem in tha future

 

No, I'm not saying don't use the springs. I fully agree, you SHOULD use the springs for that reason.

However, you can use the springs with grade 8 bolts and grade 8 washers. I didn't really say that because I thought it was self-evident.

Yes, use the springs. I'm just saying that when you use corrosion-resistant bolts on the exhaust, you might thank yourself later.

 

I have a cracked header, so I don't even know if the EG muffler bolts I snagged are sealing the leak down below the car or not since it's so loud from the header leak. Will update when I get a new header. But I got 2 bolts from an EG muffler and 2 header bolts from a CRX SI. Paying $30 is ridiculous I could order an aftermarket header that comes with bolts for that. Thanks for looking into it though. BTW Advanced Auto doesn't have anything for this. Either that or the guy was just too lazy to look into it for me.

 

Ok I'm just going to bump this because I've literally been under my car 7-8 times and cannot fix this goddamn exhaust leak. It's to the point where I'm either going to just sell the car as-is cause I'm so sick of it or drive it into a wall and just be stuck without a car...

Anyways does anybody have pictures of how the OEM **** bolts up? I had a 96-98 Y8 header on it that bolted up in the past. I swapped my Y5 motor and that header cracked, so I picked up a 99-00 Y8 header and just can't get it to seal all the way. Seems like no matter how I use the bolts I can't fix it. Any help is appreciated. It's a 96' DX using a 99-00 header/downpipe with no catalytic converter.

 

take a pic maybe that will help get some more responses

 

Just FYI, I did this with new bolts on the rear axle-back springs and the new ones were a PITA to start threading. Just was working on my friend's 2004 Civic EX and the bolts looked exactly the same with one exception... The threaded part looked longer (which would allow you to get the threads started BEFORE the spring started to compress). Might be something worth looking into.

In case it helps anyone else, the way that I finally was able to get this was to insert zip ties around some of the coils of the spring and compress it in a vice and then start the threads on the bolt and snip the zip tie and pull it out.

 

I guess my question is.. the little hump in the middle of the bolt, is that supposed to go through the hole on the axleback to header or is it supposed to be pressed against the metal? I can always get one started then the other one won't line up worth ****. I'm running to the junkyard as well to get more bolts, I ruined the threads on one of the EG bolts..

 

Bought a donut gasket but I couldn't get it to fit on my 99-00 Y8 header.. ruined the gasket trying to stretch it. Still trying to fix this.

 

How do you get the flanges close enough with a vise grip when the gasket seems to make it virtually impossible for them to get close enough? Maybe my vise grip isn't powerful enough?

 

I would have take the whole header out and install the spring and bolts.. Doing thing under the vehicle can be a real pain in the ***. I would get a new gasket donut..