How to reduce brake fade in 2000 civic si?
I got slotted and drilled rotors and hawk brake pads... but still after the brakes get hot my brake pedal fades and sometimes seems like the car won't stop. I'm curious to know if there is anything I can upgrade using Honda parts off an Integra or something that will help reduce this? Someone suggested to get steel braded brake lines, I’m sure it would help a little but not solve the problem... I'm trying to do this on a budget because a big brake kit is not something that I can afford right now.
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
Go back to blank rotors. drilled slotted does nothing on a street car. what pads do you have? Going to a high performance street pad may help since they work better when hot.
Or if I do a couple of freeway pulls and go from 130-140 MPH and slow down to 60 my brakes are gone after I do that 3 or 4 times in a row... is that normal?
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It's heavy enough.... Normal driving is fine, but if I'm coming down a canyon (not canyon racing) and my brakes get hot I have to slow down a lot to be safe...
Or if I do a couple of freeway pulls and go from 130-140 MPH and slow down to 60 my brakes are gone after I do that 3 or 4 times in a row... is that normal?
Or if I do a couple of freeway pulls and go from 130-140 MPH and slow down to 60 my brakes are gone after I do that 3 or 4 times in a row... is that normal?
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Wtf? Yes its normal for the car to fade from 140 mph unless you have super agressive pads. you also need better/fresher fluid.
Stainless lines do not do anything for brake fade.
Bleed your fluid. Go back to blank rotors. You're reducing surface area with those drilled/slotted rotors.
GSR brakes are the same as Si brakes. They're both decent sized brakes. 10.x"F and 9.x" rear rotors.
If you're getting your si out to 140mph, its either taking forever(which would give the brakes time to cool), you're going downhill, the car is heavily modded, or you're lying.
Means you need better fluid, boss. What type of hawk pads are you using?
Why are you doing these highway pulls anyway? Cuz you're "deep in the honda game"? For the thrill of the sport? Hunting mustangs...strictly catch and release? Some other irrational reason?
Stainless lines do not do anything for brake fade.
Bleed your fluid. Go back to blank rotors. You're reducing surface area with those drilled/slotted rotors.
GSR brakes are the same as Si brakes. They're both decent sized brakes. 10.x"F and 9.x" rear rotors.
If you're getting your si out to 140mph, its either taking forever(which would give the brakes time to cool), you're going downhill, the car is heavily modded, or you're lying.
Means you need better fluid, boss. What type of hawk pads are you using?
Why are you doing these highway pulls anyway? Cuz you're "deep in the honda game"? For the thrill of the sport? Hunting mustangs...strictly catch and release? Some other irrational reason?
I was gonna recommend the ITR setup but not sure what your budget is. I've taken my EM1 with an ITR 5-lug and had no problems whatsoever at a few track events. Stock pads, Brembo blanks, K&N drop-in, 4-1 header so power levels were close to stock. Oh and Motul 600. I can't honestly say whether it was all brake fluid or bigger caliper/discs, but it was a nice, balanced package.
Wtf? Yes its normal for the car to fade from 140 mph unless you have super agressive pads. you also need better/fresher fluid.
Stainless lines do not do anything for brake fade.
Bleed your fluid. Go back to blank rotors. You're reducing surface area with those drilled/slotted rotors.
GSR brakes are the same as Si brakes. They're both decent sized brakes. 10.x"F and 9.x" rear rotors.
If you're getting your si out to 140mph, its either taking forever(which would give the brakes time to cool), you're going downhill, the car is heavily modded, or you're lying.
Means you need better fluid, boss. What type of hawk pads are you using?
Why are you doing these highway pulls anyway? Cuz you're "deep in the honda game"? For the thrill of the sport? Hunting mustangs...strictly catch and release? Some other irrational reason?
Stainless lines do not do anything for brake fade.
Bleed your fluid. Go back to blank rotors. You're reducing surface area with those drilled/slotted rotors.
GSR brakes are the same as Si brakes. They're both decent sized brakes. 10.x"F and 9.x" rear rotors.
If you're getting your si out to 140mph, its either taking forever(which would give the brakes time to cool), you're going downhill, the car is heavily modded, or you're lying.
Means you need better fluid, boss. What type of hawk pads are you using?
Why are you doing these highway pulls anyway? Cuz you're "deep in the honda game"? For the thrill of the sport? Hunting mustangs...strictly catch and release? Some other irrational reason?
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Look man, I was asking a serious question... My car gets to 140 very easy... it's built and boosted... I"m not on here trying to be a donkey or ask stupid *** questions. I thought this was a tech forum and I'm asking a serious question that I do not know the answer to. Not like I came on here and said how do i make my car fast... If you don't have anything that will help me, then please don't reply.
Fluid is often overlooked. It's a leading cause of brake fade. Your call, though. Buy nice fluid for ~$7/bottle..r spend a ton of money on brake upgrayedds.
Get better fuild, better pads and toss the rotors, get brembo blanks, then come back with how they feel
And also, quit doing 140 on public roads. Its idots like your self who get inocent people killed
And also, quit doing 140 on public roads. Its idots like your self who get inocent people killed
That's what I'm wondering too!
I run Hawk HP Plus pads on blanks, and I swear... It *feels* like I could do front-end wheelies with them.
The thing is...
You *need* to bed-in Hawks!
SOURCE: http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hpplus.php
Personally, I go from 60 to 20 mph about 10 times... but that's just me.
When I get done burning-in my Hawks, they smell like a H-O-T BBQ grill...
If you DO NOT bed Hawks, they won't work worth jack!
I run Hawk HP Plus pads on blanks, and I swear... It *feels* like I could do front-end wheelies with them.

The thing is...
You *need* to bed-in Hawks!
SOURCE: http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hpplus.php
- After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
- Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
- DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
- Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
- After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
When I get done burning-in my Hawks, they smell like a H-O-T BBQ grill...
If you DO NOT bed Hawks, they won't work worth jack!
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