performance brake pads (any recommendations)
06-16-2002, 12:55 PM
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performance brake pads (any recommendations)
What are some great, but not the most expensive brake pads available with the use of slotted disk brakes? What brake pads do you guys recommend or use?
Thanks.
Thanks.
06-16-2002, 01:33 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (GQ Cowboy)
oh yeah, also. Has anyone upgraded their brake hoses to Stainless steel ones, if so what type(brand name) and what are your response/opinions. I'm currently looking into upgrading my brakes and hoses. Thanks for the help.
06-16-2002, 01:38 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (GQ Cowboy)
dont ever go with reybestos from pep boys. i used to work there and got complaints from everyone.they are 100% shiet.
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06-16-2002, 07:22 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (blackEJ1)
You are correct. I currently have those on my car and the brake dust they produce is insane. I wish I would have just gotten OEM but I never even thought of it at the time.
06-16-2002, 07:25 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (Bagel Williams)
I hear Hawks are good pads, but I also hear they eat stock rotors.
[Modified by 96 SOHC VTEC, 4:18 PM 6/17/2002]
[Modified by 96 SOHC VTEC, 4:18 PM 6/17/2002]
06-16-2002, 07:28 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (GQ Cowboy)
Has anyone tried the EBC green stuff brake pads? I was wondering how they do.
12-24-2002, 05:34 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (stuckatworksi)
Get some AEM pads they work good <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> and there not too pricey either.
Also, what will steel braided lines do if I upgrade to them?
12-24-2002, 05:46 PM
#15
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Re: performance brake pads (Hybrid93Hatch)
on the brake lines. I'd good with the goodridge brand or the one I have, made by russel under the JG/Edebrock name brand. I got it at http://www.optauto.com
I got them after I swapped my rear drums for disc brakes. I haven't had a single problem with them yet and it's been on my car for 11 months now.
I got them after I swapped my rear drums for disc brakes. I haven't had a single problem with them yet and it's been on my car for 11 months now.
12-24-2002, 07:02 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (GQ Cowboy)
I would also have to rec Carbotech Panther Plus, however, they are not an inexpensive pad. You will notice a-lot of brake dust, but it is rotor friendly and has immense stopping power.
12-24-2002, 09:04 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (GQ Cowboy)
I recommend carbon matellic brake pads from Auto Zone. It's life-time warranty. I haven't bought brake pad for a while. Whenever my weared out I just bring it back to Auto Zone, they just give me a brand set for free. The pads work even better when they're hot. They're way better than OEM.
12-25-2002, 04:15 AM
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Re: performance brake pads (porsche997)
I recommend carbon matellic brake pads from Auto Zone. It's life-time warranty. I haven't bought brake pad for a while. Whenever my weared out I just bring it back to Auto Zone, they just give me a brand set for free. The pads work even better when they're hot. They're way better than OEM.
12-25-2002, 03:58 PM
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Re: performance brake pads (Hybrid93Hatch)
How is the dust on those? Lifetime warranty and better than stock :
[/QUOTE]very little dust on the wheel. I used them on all my cars.
12-25-2002, 06:56 PM
#23
HT White Ops
Re: performance brake pads (GQ Cowboy)
...What brake pads do you guys recommend or use?...
First of all, I saw a remark, a few posts back, about Raybestos pads being ****. I disagree. I've used Raybestos pads and shoes for years and been perfectly happy with them. Raybestos is always on the 'cutting edge' of technology. However, I don't buy $10/axle OEM replacement pads. As long as you stick with 'upgraded' pads/shoes, they are fine.
To digress, a couple of guys mentioned EBC Green/Red Stuff pads. These are made with Kevlar fibers and supposed to be 'dust-free.' These pads WILL 'dust' your wheels, however they produce a fine green/red dust instead of the fugly black **** that regular pads do. If you go this route, Green Stuff is what you'll want. Red Stuff pads are designed for racing and don't work well when they are cold. More on this later...
Do yourself a favor. Take a few minutes and read this entire page:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Everyone that has done so thanks me profusely. It has a wealth of information, if you know how to read 'between the lines'! Specifically:
The organic and semi-metallic pads of the past were more abrasive than adherent and were severely temperature limited. All of the current generation of "metallic carbon", racing pads utilize mainly adherent technology as do many of the high end street car pads and they are temperature stable over a much higher range. Unfortunately, there is no free lunch and the ultra high temperature racing pads are ineffective at the low temperatures typically experienced in street use.
Therefore - there is no such thing as an ideal "all around" brake pad. The friction material that is quiet and functions well at relatively low temperatures around town will not stop the car that is driven hard. If you attempt to drive many cars hard with the OEM pads, you will experience fluid boiling, pad fade and friction material transfer - end of discussion. The true racing pad, used under normal conditions will be noisy and will not work well at low temperatures around town.
Ideally, in order to avoid either putting up with squealing brakes that will not stop the car well around town or with pad fade on the track or coming down the mountain at speed, we should change pads before indulging in vigorous automotive exercise. No one does.
The question remains, what pads should be used in high performance street car - relatively low temperature street pads or high temperature race pads? Strangely enough, in my opinion, <FONT COLOR="red">the answer is a high performance street pad with good low temperature characteristics. The reason is simple: If we are driving really hard and begin to run into trouble, either with boiling fluid or pad fade (or both), the condition(s) comes on gradually enough to allow us to simply modify our driving style to compensate. On the other hand, should an emergency occur when the brakes are cold, the high temperature pad is simply not going to stop the car...</FONT>
Therefore - there is no such thing as an ideal "all around" brake pad. The friction material that is quiet and functions well at relatively low temperatures around town will not stop the car that is driven hard. If you attempt to drive many cars hard with the OEM pads, you will experience fluid boiling, pad fade and friction material transfer - end of discussion. The true racing pad, used under normal conditions will be noisy and will not work well at low temperatures around town.
Ideally, in order to avoid either putting up with squealing brakes that will not stop the car well around town or with pad fade on the track or coming down the mountain at speed, we should change pads before indulging in vigorous automotive exercise. No one does.
The question remains, what pads should be used in high performance street car - relatively low temperature street pads or high temperature race pads? Strangely enough, in my opinion, <FONT COLOR="red">the answer is a high performance street pad with good low temperature characteristics. The reason is simple: If we are driving really hard and begin to run into trouble, either with boiling fluid or pad fade (or both), the condition(s) comes on gradually enough to allow us to simply modify our driving style to compensate. On the other hand, should an emergency occur when the brakes are cold, the high temperature pad is simply not going to stop the car...</FONT>
One of the best features of ceramic pads is they are 'virtually' (here we go again) 'dust-free.' Like the Kevlar EBC pads mentioned above, they are not really 'dust-free'; however, the ingredients in ceramic pads won't stick to wheels. Consequently, alloy wheels stay cleaner than with Kevlar pads, et cetera.
Bottom line: There is no such thing as a perfect brake pad, but if you add it all up, I think you would be hard pressed to find a better brake pad, for a CiViC, used mostly on the street, than Raybestos Quiet Stop's:
http://www.raybestos.com/quietstop.htm
Sure, you can buy more expensive pads; racing pads with all their pitfalls and downsides, but what's the point? It took 3 years for Raybestos to develop (Quiet Stop) ceramic pads and shoes. Raybestos makes quality products that other manfacturers can only dream about. Why spend an arm 'n' leg for something that isn't going to serve your purpose[s]? Whether you decide to go with Raybestos brakes or not, at least don't get carried away and buy racing pads, which aren't well suited for street-use, e.g dangerous.
Hope this helps! I know I'm going to get flamed for this by the desktop racer crowd, but who cares?
12-31-2002, 08:30 AM
#24
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Re: performance brake pads (BlackDeuceCoupe)
More importanly no one really talks about heat ranges, jerk.
What kind of driving and stopping done directly impacts braking performance.
Your traditional brake pad or OEM pad has a low heat range.
What that means is there that they reach their optimal operating temps at a lower temperature.
Example: If you are in traffic cruising along on the highway going 55MPH chances are, you have used your brakes maybe a few times which means that they are relitively cool. Usually when you stomp on the brakes in this situation it is because you need to stop right away. So a pad with a lower heat range heats up fast and bites right away.
Now if you were using a OEM pad in road race or heavy autox, riding the brakes constantly heating them up, you will exceed their heat range and cause fade. Which means they are working out of their operating temps and don't bite the rotors. In a race scenario, a pad with a higher operating range would be benfical.
Which comes the the point that BDC made, there is no perfect pad, which is why we have hybrid compounds to give good results throughtout the temp range.
Using a race pad on the street IMO is dangerous, but that is a risk some people take mainly because they are misinformed.
So with that said do your homework on pad compounds and don't be afraid to ask these companies for heat range information, and most importantly, be smart and assess your cars braking needs before running out and buying 100+$ pads.
What kind of driving and stopping done directly impacts braking performance.
Your traditional brake pad or OEM pad has a low heat range.
What that means is there that they reach their optimal operating temps at a lower temperature.
Example: If you are in traffic cruising along on the highway going 55MPH chances are, you have used your brakes maybe a few times which means that they are relitively cool. Usually when you stomp on the brakes in this situation it is because you need to stop right away. So a pad with a lower heat range heats up fast and bites right away.
Now if you were using a OEM pad in road race or heavy autox, riding the brakes constantly heating them up, you will exceed their heat range and cause fade. Which means they are working out of their operating temps and don't bite the rotors. In a race scenario, a pad with a higher operating range would be benfical.
Which comes the the point that BDC made, there is no perfect pad, which is why we have hybrid compounds to give good results throughtout the temp range.
Using a race pad on the street IMO is dangerous, but that is a risk some people take mainly because they are misinformed.
So with that said do your homework on pad compounds and don't be afraid to ask these companies for heat range information, and most importantly, be smart and assess your cars braking needs before running out and buying 100+$ pads.
01-01-2003, 12:12 AM
#25
HT White Ops
Re: performance brake pads (Dezoris)
...Which comes the the point that BDC made, there is no perfect pad, which is why we have hybrid compounds to give good results throughtout the temp range.
Using a race pad on the street IMO is dangerous, but that is a risk some people take mainly because they are misinformed...
Using a race pad on the street IMO is dangerous, but that is a risk some people take mainly because they are misinformed...