iNERtIA

thinking of getting either raybestos ceramic pads or hawk hp+
which one would get less brake fade? im running hawk hps now and im still cooking my stock dx brakes.
also would oe rotors work with either?

Rainy City

Yeah stock would work but to get less fade, i'd probably go with something better than OEM. Slotted vs unslotted I still don't know which is better since with slotted it cools off faster while it has less surface for the pads to clamp on. I've heard raybestos being used by a lot but never heard anything about hawking hp?

pos_cd5

i cant comment about the pads but slotted rotors and SS braided brake lines will help with your brake fade.

97civicdx

ceramic pads dont dust up as much as semi metallic does. It wont cure brake fade. Slow down then, hehe

Get a good semi metallic pad if stopping power is what your after.

iNERtIA

thats why im looking for a good brake setup so i could slow down. lol i need good some good brakes for the track.

Libertariat

OEM brakes, hawk pads, good fluid

/thread.

pos_cd5

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM brakes, hawk pads, good fluid

/thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>

for a thread ending post it sure isnt informative.

if your going to be doing some track time then your definately going to need race oriented brakes. i dont know much so you should go ask in the road race/auto-x. as far as discs go you should be okay with OEM rotors if yours are still in good shape. and having SS braided brake lines will greatly improve your pedal feel.

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pos_cd5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

for a thread ending post it sure isnt informative.

if your going to be doing some track time then your definately going to need race oriented brakes. i dont know much so you should go ask in the road race/auto-x. as far as discs go you should be okay with OEM rotors if yours are still in good shape. and having SS braided brake lines will greatly improve your pedal feel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For a weekend warrior oem rotors, rear discs, good pads, and fluid will do plenty. Unless he's doing any 50 lap races then he needs a super-star brake system.

I've never seen a geed OE brake setup crap-out on your average auto-xer or HPDE driver.

SS lines won't do that much for brake fade, rear discs will do more than slotted rotors.

Slotted will mostly just net you a cleaner wear on your brake pads. Not less brake fade, just less contact area thus less friction and less stopping power. Minute, but existent.

rmcdaniels

^^^What ek forever guy said, OEM brakes, decent pads, and good fluid FTW^^^

For the track I used to buy track pads and swap them out in the parking lot, although now that I have a dedicated track car I just leave them on it and am careful to/from the track. HP+'s are not really track pads, they are crossover autox/street/track pads and perform accordingly. They should be alright for a weekend session or two. Personally I like the EBC yellow Stuff R-compound better for combined street and track use, cold bite is ok, they stand up to a lot of heat, and they don't tear up my rotors, but the HP+'s are fine.

Stock or Brembo blanks work great, slots or holes are just places that will crack first when you get them hot. They used to be necessary because of pads out-gassing, but that's not really an issue any more.

One thing that made a big difference for me was cryo treatment, not so much for performance, but my rotors and pads last much longer now. Your mileage may vary on that one, some people see good results and some don't. It only costs $94 to cryo treat a set of rotors though, and it's been worth it for me.

Libertariat

^^ what is that? Some kind of temperature treatment?

Civic98KH

if you have cross drilled slotted rotors, you gotta go with ceramic, if you dont, the other pads will get chewed up like no other, im kinda confused on what rotors you have, but yeah lol

rmcdaniels

Borrowed from the cryogenic society:

Cryogenic Processing (also called cryogenic treatment, and incorrectly "cryogenic tempering") is a process that uses cryogenic temperatures to modify materials to enhance their performance. Cryogenic Processing involves the slow reduction in temperature of the material to at least -300°F (-185°C) and holding the material at that temperature for some period of hours followed by a slow increase of temperature back to room temperature. In some instances, the material is tempered at elevated temperatures to finish the process. The process is distinct from a process named "cold treating" used by heat treaters to convert retained austenite in hardened steels to a martensitic structure.

Cryogenic processing has been traced back to Germany where the Junkers Company used it in aircraft engines built in the late 1930's. It was also used in the early 1940's by a company in Massachusetts on knives. Cryogenic processing is used on racing engines, tooling, brakes, stereo equipment.

Treated metals exhibit increased abrasive wear resistance, increased dimensional stability, increased resistance to chipping, increased toughness, more even hardness, and reduced electrical resistance.

Materials commonly treated are all metals such as aluminum, steel, stainless steel, copper, titanium, brass, tin, etc., some plastics, carbide, and others.

Typical Uses

Brakes
Police and fire fleets report 2-3 times the life.


Racing
Racers greatly increase the life and reliability of their engines, transmissions, drive line parts and suspension parts.


Stereo
Cryogenic processing produces an increase in the acuity and quality of sound reproduction.


Industrial Tooling
Plastics molds, die casting dies, stamping and forming dies, cutting tools, pelletizer blades, drills, milling cutters, wear plates, bearings, and more all experience increased life.


Sporting Goods
Golf clubs and baseball bats drive ***** farther and last longer. Ice skates stay sharp longer.


Cryo treating brake rotors usually involved heating them for stress relief, then cryo treating them, and finally heat tempering them to reduce brittleness. I have a local shop do it for me, they charge $94 for a set of brake rotors.

gotbooost

ceramics are made for lest dust and noise. if you want performance then go with a non-ceramic pad.

if you're still driving this car on the street don't run out and buy RACE pads as you will not stop until they're heated up. race compounds are made for the track!

badb16rex

DO NOT use ceramic pads unless you are using ceramic rotors....otherwise you will eat through rotors fast as hell....ceramic is much harder than semi-metallic pads and when a ceramic pad hits a non-ceramic rotor it will eventually cut a rather nice groove into your rotor.....plus semi-metallic pads are much more performance oriented as well so for racing, semi-metallic FTW

blaze_125

Porterfield Carbon Kevlar Pads R4-S.

If it wasn't such a PITA to get around here, that's what I'd be running all the time.

Initial bite isn't too strong so you can get a feeling of what's going on.
Brake fade? Don't know what that is when using those pads(even with a tickness as thin as a dime).

I actually went from Porterfield to Hawk pads at some point. I couldn't get another set of Porterfield so I switched over. It took me a while to get used to them since the stopping power isn't even close.

Porterfield are dusty, but you got to give and take.