I have a 98 ek coupe and it's 5 speed it's a sohc-v when I'm on 1st gear and it goes around 2000-3000 rpm it bogs or stalls and it goes back to normal and does da same on the other gears.. Wat do u guys think is the problem need help a.s.a.p.. Also I don't think my vtech kicks in maybe it's because of this problem.. Lmk a.s.a.p

 

Do you have a CEL? Make sure your CEL bulb is working when you turn the key.

 

yes i have a CEL..the CEL was on last week and now the light is off.. and i read the ecu it blinked 9 times..

 

You can try checking the ignition timing and valve timing but we need more information to make a diagnosis. Post any other info you think of about the problems you're currently having. How does it idle? Does throttle position ever affect this problem?

 

it idles below 1000RPM or at 1000RPM..idk what else problems there are.. my friends said maybe its my spark plug, i didnt change da spark plug yet and i dont think da last owner of the car didnt change it..

 

vtec usually doesn't kick in till 5000rpm unless you have a vtec controller which allows you to lower the vtec engagement point. that and check for DTC's.

 

So you haven't had the car long? It would be a very good idea to give it a complete tune-up. Get yourself a maintenance manual and go over everything- a little each weekend. Start with the timings since they don't require any purchases. You can borrow a timing light from Autozone.

 

If you'd like to see for yourself how your ignition is doing, get a spark tester or:

First, warm the car up completely to normal operating temperature or as hot as your motor gets. Ignition components are affected by heat and problems with those parts may not show up until the engine is hot. Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire. Hold the plastic deep-well tube by the rubber boot at the tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching clean, bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts as far from the plug, motor and metal body parts as possible. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.

You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester.

 

Sounds like an ignition problem at those rpms. Is there any water in the plug wells or distributor? I had similar results when I washed my engine once...even though the plugs have rubber seals water managed to sneak down into one of the wells...

Oil leaking into the wells from an old valve cover gasket can cause this symptom as well. it might also be worth tightening down all the spade clips for the ICM and coil inside the distributor. While you're in there you can test them too

 

i had some what of the same prob back in my d series it would idle high 1000-1250 and would drive ok unless i went passed 3000rpm it would be boggy and lose power

found out my dizzy timing was really retard fixed it and ran fine after