alright I'm extremely stumped.

at idle the car should be firing at the red line on the dist, 18 deg. after TDC I believe. well my car is firing a little before TDC. With the dist. advanced all the way, it fires slightly after TDC (white line). I have tried another working dist. gone over the timing belt countless times, that should be fine. I'm getting no codes. I've tried new programs in my ecu. I have no idea what is causing this. the car runs really well. but lags pretty bad when I get on it. I have 210 compression all the way accross. the car idles smoothly at about 700 rpm. and has some detonation I think, or just valve noise. no big deal it's basically a new motor. but I can't figure out this probably and I really need help.

Thanks in advance, Aaron, aim G2crash, e-mail and MSN G2crash@aol.com if anyone can hit me up I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

 

Stock timing is 16 BEFORE TDC, that's the middle of the 3 marks all together.

Are you sure your directions (adv vs. ret) are right? Are you using a timing light with an advance dial?

 

correct me if I'm wrong

I was using a base timing light, but when a friend of mine checked it I'm pretty sure he used an advanced light.

and I"m advancing the dist. towards the radiator. is that correct?

also jumping the connector didn't make a difference.

and ya, I understand it's suppose to be at the red mark in the middle of the other two marks. but it is firing maybe a degree before the TDC mark.

hopefully I'm explaining this clearly.

 

Turning the distributor towards the radiator is retarding the timing.
Stock (middle of 3 marks) is before TDC; the TDC mark is all by itself. It's way back there at the TDC mark?

Use a simple timing light (or set the advance dial to zero). Twist the distributor towards the firewall to move in the direction towards the stock mark.

 

wow..I apologize, my brain has been fried lately from work and school.

I am advancing my timing towards the firewall. when I retard my timing, it will fire after tdc quite a bit. then when it's advanced all the way, it fires very slightly before tdc, maybe a degree at most.

so the distributor just needs to be advanced farther and it obviously can't.

I just double checked the cams again, and the holes in the cam holders are lined up with the cams, and the crankshaft is all lined up.

this is my second distributor. and I'm not getting any codes.

I think my next idea is wire harness, because other than that I'm fresh out of ideas.

again sorry for mixing that up, it's been a long week. thanks for helping...

 

did you check if your cams and crank are aligned correctly at tdc? how's the timing belt tension?

 

My next silly idea...

Check the key/keyway for the crankshaft pulley. What if the key isn't in properly, allowing the pulley to spin on the crankshaft??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My next silly idea...

Check the key/keyway for the crankshaft pulley. What if the key isn't in properly, allowing the pulley to spin on the crankshaft??</TD></TR></TABLE>

unlikely, but just in case

 

timing belt tension is good. it was actually re-done. and it's good and firm

The crankshaft pulley is on there good. no play in it at all.

The pulley and cams are all lined up too. I even did a screwdriver trick to make sure the TDC mark on the pulley is accurate.

it all seems to be put together just fine as far as t-belt stuff.

so I'm thinking wire harness, I haven't had time to mess with it though. but it something in the wire harness was bad, it probably wouldn't even start. but I don't know. that's what I'm going to dig into the next chance I get.

pizza and beer is offered to locals that will come and help me diagnose the problem. anymore help is greatly appreciated

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2Crash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I even did a screwdriver trick to make sure the TDC mark on the pulley is accurate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what screwdriver trick? i wanna know

 

take out the spark plug on the number one cylinder. and put a long screwdriver down the hole till it touchs the piston.

with a ratchet on the crank pulley.and the screwdriver on the piston move the crank to tdc, and make sure that the piston has traveled as far up as it will go. you'll be able to tell by eyeballing the screwdriver to see if it moved up or down, then tdc will be obviously when you see the screwdriver go as far up as it will go. make sense?

 

I have the same issues with my LSVTEC. Its not wired for vtec and still using LS stock ECU. I get a bit of valve noise because i see the timing jumping. it doesnt seem to stay at idle. When i adjust the dist. it changes but still jumps up and down.. If you figure it out let us know...

 

bump

 

bump again, I haven't found anything new. anyone have more ideas?

 

anyone? haha, geez, this problem sucks...

 

im having the same problem with my built motor i just swapped over the weekend, i have no idea either, if someone knows please tell me to!