Hey recently I spun a bearing, and a rod snapped in my motor. How probable is it that the head is damaged?

Everything looks fine except for some grooves on one of the cam journals. I have yet to take the valves out and check them for bends.

I can sand the metal burrs off and make is smooth again, but is this tiny flaw going to destroy a motor if I reuse the head?

You can see in the pic where the grooves and scratches are in the cam journal and the one camshaft (at the end by the gear.)

thanks.

 

i would have it lined bored

 

Looks like JUNK to me.

 

X2, looks like its scored pretty deep. I have seen pistons come up before when a rod breaks btw and smash into the head. The only way to tell is to pull the head.

 

yep. lets just say you'd be the luckiest person alive if your free floating piston somehow didn't uppercut your cylinderhead.

 

well the head is off of the motor. it's sitting on the floor in my room. When I get home I will inspect the rods for damage and check for any evidence of a piston hitting the head.

How else would I check the head for damage? I can post pictures of anything that might help.

thanks a lot

 

Dont bother, that head is JUNK.

 

all the people that said the head is junk your ****ing dumb for a $20 line bore it would be just like new

 

como?

i'm saying its junk not because of the scoring in the cam journals, but because the motor broke a rod and it's likely the piston made contact with the valves. i'm not sure what everyone elses assessment is.

 

so it's kinda funny i said this because i just checked the broken y8 engine in the garage right. it has a broken rod that punched a hole through the block, couldn't believe it but my cylinder head is perfectly fine, not a scratch on it. it's all about where the piston breaks in its travel. if you're lucky enough to have it break in the right spot, your head might be alright. oh and of course you have to hope that somebody can machine out the grooves in the cam journals in your case.

 

I think there is some higher power watching over the re-building of this car. When the motor snapped a rod, I took it all apart and wrapped the parts up in a giant cooler and taped it shut for storage. Somehow I come back a month later and find all my parts underwater with the cooler half full of water. I have no idea how that happened.

Not a speck of rust on anything tho, absolutely no rust. Blowin my mind....

Yeh I think my head is fine because if a valve bent, It would stick open right? In other words, if a valve was bent it would not close all the way and lookin at the valve-side of the head would make things very obvious.

Nothin looked out of place or odd in the cylinder the rod snapped. The motor died from lack of oil, so I'm guessing the piston seized in the cylinder and that would have slowed it's momentum into the head (assuming it even hit the head.)

The thing I am afraid of is a warped head from the heat of no oil.

Anything else to check out on a head that might be damaged from a rod snapping? Apart from the obvious valves, warping, metal chunks where there shouldn't be.....

 

If the head is off u would notice if a piston hit it. Dude i ran my b16 with no oil going to the cams, *cough* some dumbass put the middle cam cap (the one that supplys oil to the rails) on backwards. I ran it this way for at least 15k miles. Sprayed it on a daily baises, took it to the track several times, basically was a daily beater. I didnt notice it until i put gsr cams in it, ha, i put the gsr cams in and ran it for another 15-20k spraying. Eventually it spun a bearing, i blame it on 10/40 and lucas but who knows. i later sold the head for 100 bucks. Do you have a vtec pressure switch? i didnt, maybe would of told me something. get a magnetic drain plug

 

well what happened was I took out the vtec pressure switch because i snapped it off with a wrench when I was adjusting valves. I figured it'd be fine to run it like that because I had court the next morning. Fine to drive without vtec, right? Sure it is, you just have to put the broken pressure switch back in so the oil doesn't spray out the hole

Needless to say, I didn't. Fvcking brilliant.

What about the vtec pressure switch might tell me somethin? You mean the solenoid? plz explain..

Yeh, i'm saving the head for b20vtec, because the block is toast. Hope I don't have to find a new vtec head, because that would blow goats.

 

If the switch doesnt sense enough oil pressure it wont turn vtec on

 

and if the switch isn't installed firmly in the head, oil sprays out of the hole until there is no oil left.

but you said that the switch "might tell me something." what do you mean?

 

if ou spun a bearing you need to hot tank and clean everything thier could be metal shavings all over it. and buy a new oil pump and pick up.

 

hence why people are telling this guy to get a "line bore"

 

im telling u vtec wouldnt work (not saying that ur or my oil pressure was that low but maybe) if the switch didnt detect the proper oil pressure and u would of been wondering y ur vtec wasnt working

 

I knew my vtec wouldn't work, and I knew it was okay to drive to court without vtec. I just somehow forgot to put the pressure switch back in the hole, so the oil spurted out.

Wait hold up everyone, what's to stop me from just sanding off any burrs and making things smooth again, and running the same camshafts in the same head? If I machine out the grooves, suddenly the cam is loose in the cam journal, right? So why not just sand off any sharp edges or metal specks, and puttin everything back the way it was (with oil this time around )

 

I was asking if u had one to begain with and not a jdm solenoid. I say go for it

 

thanks for the clarification sherlock