Wet or dry nitrous shot!?!
wet = gas and nitrous sprayed
dry = just nitrous
ZEX make a wet nitrous system thats a good system for sombudy that wants somthing eazy to install and dosnt want to go much more then say a 100 shot. Its a fogger system that sprays the gas and nitrous toghter.
I used a NOS kit for years that was a dry system. I never had any problem.
If your just thinking of spraying a 50 shot or so any fogger system will be safe.
dry = just nitrous
ZEX make a wet nitrous system thats a good system for sombudy that wants somthing eazy to install and dosnt want to go much more then say a 100 shot. Its a fogger system that sprays the gas and nitrous toghter.
I used a NOS kit for years that was a dry system. I never had any problem.
If your just thinking of spraying a 50 shot or so any fogger system will be safe.
The "ideal" setup is a dry system activated by your tuning system, like Hondata where the additional fuel required is added by the injectors and tuned on a dyno to get the right ratios. This will cost you some money but will make the best/most reliable power.
A wet system or basic dry system is ok as long as you limit the shot to 75hp or less, if you're just bolting it on and going. Having stable bottle pressure is the key to the nitrous/fuel mixtures being balanced so you'd need a bottle heater that's thermostatically controlled to do it. Once you have that, get it on the dyno and use the dyno wideband to see the air/fuel ratio when running the nitrous. If you already have a wideband installed in your car, you can just use that to street tune the nitrous, looking to keep the air/fuel ratio around 12.2-12.5:1 roughly when nitrous is engaged. What you're doing is swapping out the nitrous/fuel jets at a set bottle pressure to get the safe air/fuel ratios you want.
A wet system or basic dry system is ok as long as you limit the shot to 75hp or less, if you're just bolting it on and going. Having stable bottle pressure is the key to the nitrous/fuel mixtures being balanced so you'd need a bottle heater that's thermostatically controlled to do it. Once you have that, get it on the dyno and use the dyno wideband to see the air/fuel ratio when running the nitrous. If you already have a wideband installed in your car, you can just use that to street tune the nitrous, looking to keep the air/fuel ratio around 12.2-12.5:1 roughly when nitrous is engaged. What you're doing is swapping out the nitrous/fuel jets at a set bottle pressure to get the safe air/fuel ratios you want.
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The "ideal" setup is a dry system activated by your tuning system, like Hondata where the additional fuel required is added by the injectors and tuned on a dyno to get the right ratios. This will cost you some money but will make the best/most reliable power.
A wet system or basic dry system is ok as long as you limit the shot to 75hp or less, if you're just bolting it on and going. Having stable bottle pressure is the key to the nitrous/fuel mixtures being balanced so you'd need a bottle heater that's thermostatically controlled to do it. Once you have that, get it on the dyno and use the dyno wideband to see the air/fuel ratio when running the nitrous. If you already have a wideband installed in your car, you can just use that to street tune the nitrous, looking to keep the air/fuel ratio around 12.2-12.5:1 roughly when nitrous is engaged. What you're doing is swapping out the nitrous/fuel jets at a set bottle pressure to get the safe air/fuel ratios you want.
A wet system or basic dry system is ok as long as you limit the shot to 75hp or less, if you're just bolting it on and going. Having stable bottle pressure is the key to the nitrous/fuel mixtures being balanced so you'd need a bottle heater that's thermostatically controlled to do it. Once you have that, get it on the dyno and use the dyno wideband to see the air/fuel ratio when running the nitrous. If you already have a wideband installed in your car, you can just use that to street tune the nitrous, looking to keep the air/fuel ratio around 12.2-12.5:1 roughly when nitrous is engaged. What you're doing is swapping out the nitrous/fuel jets at a set bottle pressure to get the safe air/fuel ratios you want.
I run pretty much the same kit in my snowmobile but its made from a diffrent compeny and it works great even at -30deg outside.
You are right about the tuning anything over 80hp, my old GSR engine betwin a 70 shot and a 100 shot only made 3whp diffrence on the dyno without a tune.
The zex system has a smart box they call it that adj itself for the amount of bottle pressure you have if i remember correctly as long as you have 250psi+ it will work. So regarless of bottle pressure you still get the same amount of nitrous going into the motor.
I run pretty much the same kit in my snowmobile but its made from a diffrent compeny and it works great even at -30deg outside.
You are right about the tuning anything over 80hp, my old GSR engine betwin a 70 shot and a 100 shot only made 3whp diffrence on the dyno without a tune.
I run pretty much the same kit in my snowmobile but its made from a diffrent compeny and it works great even at -30deg outside.
You are right about the tuning anything over 80hp, my old GSR engine betwin a 70 shot and a 100 shot only made 3whp diffrence on the dyno without a tune.
check out wilson manifolds, they have some really nice dry nitrous only kits. I'm working on getting this kit: http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/shop/...ct_detail&p=32
you can run a 50-250 shot and controll everything through your tuning software like 00RED SIR said
you can run a 50-250 shot and controll everything through your tuning software like 00RED SIR said
Wet is the best system to use if u don't hava a hondadata system. And what i normally do is get my jets for a 1200psi bottle pressure that's the biggest fuel jet that u will need for the setting that u are running. And u can go bigger than a 75shot also. Always when u use a nitrous setup get a better fuel pump than stock. I ran 75 shot then 100 shot but stopped there b/c i kept blowing the tires off the car anything bigger than that i would have to wait till 3rd gear to engage and didn't wanna do that. But just for fun like giving my friends a ride. I have 150 shot pills on standby.
All of this was on a stock h22 with intake headers exhaust trapping 107mph in the 1/4 in a full interior honda accord. on stock p13 and vafc controller all settings set at 0 with no tune.
that mph was on a 100shot.
spraying from 2nd gear till 4th.
All of this was on a stock h22 with intake headers exhaust trapping 107mph in the 1/4 in a full interior honda accord. on stock p13 and vafc controller all settings set at 0 with no tune.
that mph was on a 100shot.
spraying from 2nd gear till 4th.
I'm just too lazy to fork out the cash lol but i will soon. It's a 79 cheap investment.
when I had my shop I prefered to tell my customers where it was best to spend their money. I do the same thing myself. In some cases an aftermarket pump is good insurance, while in others, it's an unnecessary expense.
im afraid you are in the wrong forum, nitrous is commonly thought of as a naturally aspirated power adder, but since it puts more oxygen into your engine than atmospheric air has......then is effectively forced induction.........the way boosting and nitrous give you more power is almost exactly the same.
While I agree with newtron63h, that nitrous is technically meant for the forced induction forum, the reality is that people who run nitrous have more in common with all motor people than FI people since they run all motor far more than on the gas in general. I for one am one of those people and don't mind helping out.
i say nitrous is a older form of secondary injection the gives very easy hp and drops the iat's and i say all motor car's do benefit from this advice b/c it's generally all motor setup's that nitrous is being built for. It's very very easy to have a high compression all motor car and additionally add nitrous to run the et u want i say particular for grudge racing though not for class racing.
I wouldn't say nitrous injection is any older than forced induction as all the different types were used on various WWII fighter aircraft. It's just a different way of accomplishing the same thing, in someways it's better, other ways it's worse but it is what it is. People do use it in bracket racing as well as class racing, grudge, street...it doesn't matter, just watever the track and class rules are.
I wouldn't say nitrous injection is any older than forced induction as all the different types were used on various WWII fighter aircraft. It's just a different way of accomplishing the same thing, in someways it's better, other ways it's worse but it is what it is. People do use it in bracket racing as well as class racing, grudge, street...it doesn't matter, just watever the track and class rules are.
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