New GSR build won't start/idle
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Just got my new motor in today with:
87.2 gsr block with 81.5 mm Arias 11:5's
b16 head with crower stage 3's
performer x with professional products 68 mm gsr throttle body.
440cc RC injectors
Initial startup the car took a little bit but fired up fine, ran fine.. Just couldn't get it to idle no matter how much I messed with the IACV duty, it's maxed out and i'll manually type in to idle at 1500 rpm but sometimes it acts like the IACV doesn't work. and Other times it'll idle what I set it at. The car runs and drives around town fine, you just always have to blip the throttle so it doesn't die.
I've added/pulled timing, and also played with the fuel maps to try to get it to idle correctly and even start.
The only way I can get it to start is by push starting it, it cranks over fine (although the compression sounds low).
Like I said, it only starts whenever I push start it.
In s300 parameters the cranking fuel trim is at -10, (set from my old tuner, i've went to -50, to +50.. and no luck)
Any tricks to keep this motor idling? and Anything i Can check? How do I figure out if the IACV is working properly? it was cleaned thoroughly before assembly of the motor
Any suggestions? I'm charging my battery right now thinking the battery might be low, and also grabbing a new starter tomorrow to see if this one is too weak to spin the motor. I've checked the plugs, they are not covered in fuel and look fine even after minutes of cranking, is this normal? I'm getting spark and fuel gauge reads 38-40 psi everytime i cycle the key to the "on" position
87.2 gsr block with 81.5 mm Arias 11:5's
b16 head with crower stage 3's
performer x with professional products 68 mm gsr throttle body.
440cc RC injectors
Initial startup the car took a little bit but fired up fine, ran fine.. Just couldn't get it to idle no matter how much I messed with the IACV duty, it's maxed out and i'll manually type in to idle at 1500 rpm but sometimes it acts like the IACV doesn't work. and Other times it'll idle what I set it at. The car runs and drives around town fine, you just always have to blip the throttle so it doesn't die.
I've added/pulled timing, and also played with the fuel maps to try to get it to idle correctly and even start.
The only way I can get it to start is by push starting it, it cranks over fine (although the compression sounds low).
Like I said, it only starts whenever I push start it.
In s300 parameters the cranking fuel trim is at -10, (set from my old tuner, i've went to -50, to +50.. and no luck)
Any tricks to keep this motor idling? and Anything i Can check? How do I figure out if the IACV is working properly? it was cleaned thoroughly before assembly of the motor
Any suggestions? I'm charging my battery right now thinking the battery might be low, and also grabbing a new starter tomorrow to see if this one is too weak to spin the motor. I've checked the plugs, they are not covered in fuel and look fine even after minutes of cranking, is this normal? I'm getting spark and fuel gauge reads 38-40 psi everytime i cycle the key to the "on" position
Last edited by ohsnapzafingcu; Jun 3, 2010 at 04:09 AM.
Have you manually adjusted the idle using the screw on the throttle body first?
Too much IACV duty, and you'll be in a worse scenario than you started for idle quality.
Also, what AFR's are you shooting for at idle? Try richening things up at first. Then give idle 18.5-19 degrees of timing.
If all the above fails, prop the throttle stop open a hair.
- Derek
Too much IACV duty, and you'll be in a worse scenario than you started for idle quality.

Also, what AFR's are you shooting for at idle? Try richening things up at first. Then give idle 18.5-19 degrees of timing.
If all the above fails, prop the throttle stop open a hair.
- Derek
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I used to be able to give it a little gas while it's cranking and it'd start, now it won't even start unless i push start it.. It makes me lead to think the cranking is in a 'dead' zone on the parameters.
After it's warmed up I was shooting at 14:7 ish so the rings would seal, which it did after a little driving and decelerating.
Also, when i'm cranking the motor sounds like it has no compression at all. almost like a motor with bent valves. But it runs fine once fired up. Any suggestions?
Thanks d-rob, i'll give the idle screw a chance when i get home from work
After it's warmed up I was shooting at 14:7 ish so the rings would seal, which it did after a little driving and decelerating.
Also, when i'm cranking the motor sounds like it has no compression at all. almost like a motor with bent valves. But it runs fine once fired up. Any suggestions?
Thanks d-rob, i'll give the idle screw a chance when i get home from work
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compression test showed cylinders 1-2 were at 90 PSI, 3-4 were at 60 PSI, when I crank the motor it sounds like there's no compression. Starter was switched out with a good one, battery is awesome. It was all done with the battery being charged at a low amp for around 8 hours, and bumped up to 10 amps when we were trying to start it to make sure it had a little extra juice.
Again, we pushed it out into the street, popped the clutched. and Started and ran just fine through vtec, and 8 grand. No ticks, weird smells or anything. Car runs awesome when it's rolling!
The idle screw didn't do anything, and messing with the iacv didn't do much either. I'm swapping a stock p73 tb and a good iacv tomorrow to see what's the deal.
Again, we pushed it out into the street, popped the clutched. and Started and ran just fine through vtec, and 8 grand. No ticks, weird smells or anything. Car runs awesome when it's rolling!
The idle screw didn't do anything, and messing with the iacv didn't do much either. I'm swapping a stock p73 tb and a good iacv tomorrow to see what's the deal.
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I serve phở for my babies
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if you can send it, thanks a bunch. i'm on s300 btw..
And: compression test was done on a cold motor with throttle closed.
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changed out the IACV, and stock tb from a type R. still no start..
leaning towards bent valves, found a spare b16 head that i'm gonna throw on tomorrow. I can't figure out why everyone has had success with crower stage 3's, and my unlucky booty bent my valves
Dummy question: how big are crower 3's? am I overcamming my motor? i've been digging up more, seems like they're pretty hardcore. I didn't think they were as big as they are
leaning towards bent valves, found a spare b16 head that i'm gonna throw on tomorrow. I can't figure out why everyone has had success with crower stage 3's, and my unlucky booty bent my valves

Dummy question: how big are crower 3's? am I overcamming my motor? i've been digging up more, seems like they're pretty hardcore. I didn't think they were as big as they are
Last edited by ohsnapzafingcu; Jun 4, 2010 at 10:18 PM.
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Bump.. Anybody want to give me some advice? I've heard from many there cams don't need to be degreed.. And running them will be fine.?
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you're good, i switched the head out with a stock b16, started right up and compression test was good, no markings or anything on the pistons.. is there a possibility the valves smacked my pistons and didn't leave any marks?
its possible to hit a piston, bend a valve and not leave a mark, if it was on a cranking move, if the motor was moving, well you would have ran into more trouble.
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