How-To: Poorman's CTR
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 0
From: Nowhere'sville, No where
Okay, here's how it shapes up. I did the conversion not because I decided it was best, but because it was the best thing at the time.
Here's what you need:
-B16 bottom end (PR3 or P30)
-GSR head and intake manifold
-Deck your old GSR head .005" to .008"
-B16 head bolts
-B16 timing belt
What does this equate to:
-10.7'ish with the PR3 pistons for static compression and higher with the P30's
-The benefit of having the GSR's dual runner intake
-A meaner B16
-The PR3 and P30 pistons don't have a massive and heavy dome like the PCT pistons have
Positive Impressions:
-Seemed to run just as good as the GSR I had in my car. I still have the GSR ecu (OBD2b)
-Torque doesn't seem to be lacking while driving in town during cool weather.
Negative impressions:
-The gsr 2nd gear blows. This thing doesn't seem alive until you get to 7000 rpm's, and a 1.90 2nd gear ratio isn't the best thing to have this engine combination dropping to. If you could, get a meaner final gear. The 2nd gear ratio still sucks though.
-Not the same rod ratio as the CTR, but not bad. You may never notice anything here.
What could make it better or put it over the CTR:
-Cams (Get mean, don't play around)
-Maybe some port work?!?!?!?!? lol duh!
-A header with a 2.5" collector
-Better gear ratio's
Overall:
-I suppose the best thing about this combo, for B16's that is, is that you can get good compression without having to have a mega-huge piston dome. Also, your rods will be lighter than the B16B rods (if length is the determining factor). Overall, you should have a lighter rotating assembly. This equates to more power. Then you ultimately help the B16 with the GSR's torquey intake manifold. Lastly, you'll save some money, that is, if this combination is for some reason something you had a desire to do versus buying a B16B motor.
Here's what you need:
-B16 bottom end (PR3 or P30)
-GSR head and intake manifold
-Deck your old GSR head .005" to .008"
-B16 head bolts
-B16 timing belt
What does this equate to:
-10.7'ish with the PR3 pistons for static compression and higher with the P30's
-The benefit of having the GSR's dual runner intake
-A meaner B16
-The PR3 and P30 pistons don't have a massive and heavy dome like the PCT pistons have
Positive Impressions:
-Seemed to run just as good as the GSR I had in my car. I still have the GSR ecu (OBD2b)
-Torque doesn't seem to be lacking while driving in town during cool weather.
Negative impressions:
-The gsr 2nd gear blows. This thing doesn't seem alive until you get to 7000 rpm's, and a 1.90 2nd gear ratio isn't the best thing to have this engine combination dropping to. If you could, get a meaner final gear. The 2nd gear ratio still sucks though.
-Not the same rod ratio as the CTR, but not bad. You may never notice anything here.
What could make it better or put it over the CTR:
-Cams (Get mean, don't play around)
-Maybe some port work?!?!?!?!? lol duh!
-A header with a 2.5" collector
-Better gear ratio's
Overall:
-I suppose the best thing about this combo, for B16's that is, is that you can get good compression without having to have a mega-huge piston dome. Also, your rods will be lighter than the B16B rods (if length is the determining factor). Overall, you should have a lighter rotating assembly. This equates to more power. Then you ultimately help the B16 with the GSR's torquey intake manifold. Lastly, you'll save some money, that is, if this combination is for some reason something you had a desire to do versus buying a B16B motor.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 0
From: Nowhere'sville, No where
The goal is to make something equivalent or better than what costs more (ie, the Poorman's ITR motor combination). If setup correctly, and in conjunction of the gift of low end torque that is characteristic of the GSR manifold, you should dog walk a ctr.
No **** dude.
However this in no way is even close to a "Poor Man's CTR". As all you guys already know a CTR engine is a destroked 1.8L black. It is destroked to improve the Rod/Ratio. Honda designed this to add longevity for N1 endurance racing.
This engine is nothing more than a "Poorman's B16 build". We have seen tons of B16's with GSR heads. Nothing new.
However this in no way is even close to a "Poor Man's CTR". As all you guys already know a CTR engine is a destroked 1.8L black. It is destroked to improve the Rod/Ratio. Honda designed this to add longevity for N1 endurance racing.
This engine is nothing more than a "Poorman's B16 build". We have seen tons of B16's with GSR heads. Nothing new.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 0
From: Nowhere'sville, No where
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 0
From: Nowhere'sville, No where
Yeah, but let's assume someone is trying to get their car back together after a motor blowup. They would have had to ruin their GSR block to switch away from it. This is to say that I wouldn't plan on putting a B16 crank in a GSR block if I didn't have to. I'd fix the GSR and go on about my business. Switching gears for a moment, I will note that you're more likely to find a B16 bottom end that was replaced for an LS bottom end for an LSV.
Typically, someone who stumbles up on this combo is most likely having some unfortunate luck, and cannot afford to replace their GSR bottom end. Simple as that. However, what sets this combo apart from other supposed "Poorman's CTR" builds is that you don't have to go out and buy CTR pistons to make the same or more compression as the CTR B16. That costs money. To get the same compression out of a B16, you would have to buy CTR pistons, rings and wrist pins, pay for a hone job, and you'll more than likely rebuild the bottom end if you're particular. On the other hand, you could get a stock PR3 or P30 B16 bottom end that was ditched in favor of an LSV build for dirt cheap (cheaper than most of the LS bottom ends i've seen going around since everyone wants an LSV), and simply bolt the head on.
A sure enough poor mf'er would go this route. Yes, if done correctly, this combo should dog walk a ctr motor.
Typically, someone who stumbles up on this combo is most likely having some unfortunate luck, and cannot afford to replace their GSR bottom end. Simple as that. However, what sets this combo apart from other supposed "Poorman's CTR" builds is that you don't have to go out and buy CTR pistons to make the same or more compression as the CTR B16. That costs money. To get the same compression out of a B16, you would have to buy CTR pistons, rings and wrist pins, pay for a hone job, and you'll more than likely rebuild the bottom end if you're particular. On the other hand, you could get a stock PR3 or P30 B16 bottom end that was ditched in favor of an LSV build for dirt cheap (cheaper than most of the LS bottom ends i've seen going around since everyone wants an LSV), and simply bolt the head on.
A sure enough poor mf'er would go this route. Yes, if done correctly, this combo should dog walk a ctr motor.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 0
From: Nowhere'sville, No where
The B20 would be my first option, and that's without hesitation. Some people just don't have this option.
Last edited by integrawow; Jun 5, 2010 at 06:00 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dominicanito49
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
2
Jan 18, 2006 06:47 PM
aser1z
Hybrid / Engine Swaps
3
Jun 5, 2005 09:00 PM









