my wife drives a 92 sedan dx had the d15b7 and automatic. the headgasket started leaking and it had been burning oil so i sent off the head and had it decked, cleaned and new valve seals put it. got the head put on and it was still burning oil, compression test was horrible and her tranny was shifting crazy hard, so i bought a d15b and auto tranny and ecu off Hmotors. also i had rebuilt her dizzy cuz the car wouldnt start when the motor was warm and i tested the control module and it was bad so i replaced everything. so anyway i put the d15b in and when you would try to accelerate it would stumble until you took your foot off the gas. so i replaced the one wire o2 and that fixed that. then her alternator went out about 4 hours away from home and i had to drive to her and swap it from her old motor on the side of the interstate. when she got home her exhaust fell off. and now, here is my actual question lol, the car is starting to do the not starting when its warm again, so i replaced the control mod and coil and still does it, so i swapped all the guts from her old dizzy and its still doin it....and this has only been about 3% of the problems, i have so much time and money in the Liftime warranty car lol. any suggestions about the not starting when its warm, if you wait ten minutes it will always start

 

check your Main Relay, or just replace it. Under the dash Driverside.

 

`

 

kinda what i was thinking too, ill have an extra one from my 95 coupe in about two weeks when i scrap it, so i will have to wait to try that

 

Here's the trick: If the main relay is misbehaving, try rapping on the knee bolster by the fuse box when your key is in IG(II). Main relay fix is pretty easy if you're a handy man... see tegger.com.

 

lol, im not a good rapper...yah i know about reflowing the solder

 

Lemon