GSR BUILD LS OR GSR CRANK WITH EAGLE H BEAM RODS
I have brand new eagle rods for both gsr & Ls I also have a b18a/b crank & b18c1 crank I am building a daily driver my last build made 208hp on JDM b18c (gsr) @ Churches dyno but im having oil consumption issues due to oil rings or valve seals. I recently bought a FRESH fully built p72 (gsr) head thats ported & polished NEW ITR valvetrain guides seals etc ALL NEW + crower retainers, as well as a freshly bored & cleaned b18c1 block because I dont have time for down time my only car. Ive heard & read mixed reviews is it worth the extra 2 on the stroke 87gsr vs 89 LS I have 81.5mm gsr cp pistons as well along with s2s2 tune cams but I heard u have to bend oil squirters to fit LS crank in GSR block or plug the holes with golden eagles kit, Endyn recommends running an external oil feed line similar to LS vtec conversions, I need this to be reliable & have all parts minus the squirter plugs/oil line if I went that route & I heard there is more stress on the cyl walls when running ls crank set up in gsr is this drastic ? I dont plan on going past 8500rpm although my supporting mods will support higher rpms ANY input greatly appreciated
I've often wondered the same thing, obviously the LS crank will make a little more power everywhere but would be good to hear more from the old school guys in here. There is guy on here with 100k miles on his gsr block with ls crank and he said he spins that thing up pretty high, like >8k rpm for sure.
actually just found his PM for you, his name is all-mtr-teg so you can look him up on here
here is his response to a PM I sent him about his motor
"I drive about 50-55k miles a year so I got lots of miles on my build, my buddy's motor which I also built is basically the same setup and at about 75-80k miles now also.What we both have are GSR blocks, bored to 82mm with RS machine PR3 pistons, Stock LS/B20 crank and rods with ARP rod bolts. I had the rotating assembly's balanced and running acl standard bearings cause all our oem bearing codes came in at mostly green and a few yellows. I'm running Blox B cams now, I degreed the cams and did cam gear tuning afterwards to extract the most power, I was originally running Buddy Club 3 cams for the first year and a half, and my buddy has always had the Blox B's. I dynoed 191 whp with a short ram intake he dynoed 193 whp with a CAI. We both have stock GSR heads, no port work, just a good 3 angle valve job and port matched intake manifold, both have Skunk2 IM's and professional products ITR style 65mm TB. Both running edelbrock header with 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" exhaust. Lightweight flywheel, Action Clutch stage 3 clutch, I ran a 13.7 but I must admit this is with a GSR tranny with a 4.9 Final drive so the acceleration is damn near that of a B16 tranny. My buddy's best time was a 14.0 but he needs more seat time cause his 60' times are pretty high, like 2.5 secs. if I recall. I managed a 2.3 sec. I'm running stock OBD2 97-01 Prelude injectors 290cc with a tune on crome. My buddy running RC 310 cc injectors also tuned on crome"
actually just found his PM for you, his name is all-mtr-teg so you can look him up on here
here is his response to a PM I sent him about his motor
"I drive about 50-55k miles a year so I got lots of miles on my build, my buddy's motor which I also built is basically the same setup and at about 75-80k miles now also.What we both have are GSR blocks, bored to 82mm with RS machine PR3 pistons, Stock LS/B20 crank and rods with ARP rod bolts. I had the rotating assembly's balanced and running acl standard bearings cause all our oem bearing codes came in at mostly green and a few yellows. I'm running Blox B cams now, I degreed the cams and did cam gear tuning afterwards to extract the most power, I was originally running Buddy Club 3 cams for the first year and a half, and my buddy has always had the Blox B's. I dynoed 191 whp with a short ram intake he dynoed 193 whp with a CAI. We both have stock GSR heads, no port work, just a good 3 angle valve job and port matched intake manifold, both have Skunk2 IM's and professional products ITR style 65mm TB. Both running edelbrock header with 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" exhaust. Lightweight flywheel, Action Clutch stage 3 clutch, I ran a 13.7 but I must admit this is with a GSR tranny with a 4.9 Final drive so the acceleration is damn near that of a B16 tranny. My buddy's best time was a 14.0 but he needs more seat time cause his 60' times are pretty high, like 2.5 secs. if I recall. I managed a 2.3 sec. I'm running stock OBD2 97-01 Prelude injectors 290cc with a tune on crome. My buddy running RC 310 cc injectors also tuned on crome"
I would be interested to hear more though, not to hijack, but I'm at a cross roads as I'm trying to decide if I should build a b20vtec or a gsr block with ls crank.
I've often wondered the same thing, obviously the LS crank will make a little more power everywhere but would be good to hear more from the old school guys in here. There is guy on here with 100k miles on his gsr block with ls crank and he said he spins that thing up pretty high, like >8k rpm for sure.
actually just found his PM for you, his name is all-mtr-teg so you can look him up on here
here is his response to a PM I sent him about his motor
"I drive about 50-55k miles a year so I got lots of miles on my build, my buddy's motor which I also built is basically the same setup and at about 75-80k miles now also.What we both have are GSR blocks, bored to 82mm with RS machine PR3 pistons, Stock LS/B20 crank and rods with ARP rod bolts. I had the rotating assembly's balanced and running acl standard bearings cause all our oem bearing codes came in at mostly green and a few yellows. I'm running Blox B cams now, I degreed the cams and did cam gear tuning afterwards to extract the most power, I was originally running Buddy Club 3 cams for the first year and a half, and my buddy has always had the Blox B's. I dynoed 191 whp with a short ram intake he dynoed 193 whp with a CAI. We both have stock GSR heads, no port work, just a good 3 angle valve job and port matched intake manifold, both have Skunk2 IM's and professional products ITR style 65mm TB. Both running edelbrock header with 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" exhaust. Lightweight flywheel, Action Clutch stage 3 clutch, I ran a 13.7 but I must admit this is with a GSR tranny with a 4.9 Final drive so the acceleration is damn near that of a B16 tranny. My buddy's best time was a 14.0 but he needs more seat time cause his 60' times are pretty high, like 2.5 secs. if I recall. I managed a 2.3 sec. I'm running stock OBD2 97-01 Prelude injectors 290cc with a tune on crome. My buddy running RC 310 cc injectors also tuned on crome"
actually just found his PM for you, his name is all-mtr-teg so you can look him up on here
here is his response to a PM I sent him about his motor
"I drive about 50-55k miles a year so I got lots of miles on my build, my buddy's motor which I also built is basically the same setup and at about 75-80k miles now also.What we both have are GSR blocks, bored to 82mm with RS machine PR3 pistons, Stock LS/B20 crank and rods with ARP rod bolts. I had the rotating assembly's balanced and running acl standard bearings cause all our oem bearing codes came in at mostly green and a few yellows. I'm running Blox B cams now, I degreed the cams and did cam gear tuning afterwards to extract the most power, I was originally running Buddy Club 3 cams for the first year and a half, and my buddy has always had the Blox B's. I dynoed 191 whp with a short ram intake he dynoed 193 whp with a CAI. We both have stock GSR heads, no port work, just a good 3 angle valve job and port matched intake manifold, both have Skunk2 IM's and professional products ITR style 65mm TB. Both running edelbrock header with 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" exhaust. Lightweight flywheel, Action Clutch stage 3 clutch, I ran a 13.7 but I must admit this is with a GSR tranny with a 4.9 Final drive so the acceleration is damn near that of a B16 tranny. My buddy's best time was a 14.0 but he needs more seat time cause his 60' times are pretty high, like 2.5 secs. if I recall. I managed a 2.3 sec. I'm running stock OBD2 97-01 Prelude injectors 290cc with a tune on crome. My buddy running RC 310 cc injectors also tuned on crome"
good point. the more I look into all these hybrid motors the more I think just building a strong b18c and spinning it a little harder is the way to do it. the better sleeves then allow for turbo later or nitrous too.
Ya man this predicament is making me want to pull my hair out I have all the parts minus LS rod bearings to complete the changover I just have to have the block bored to proper bore its only @ 81.25 my pistons are 81.50 other concern is piston to head clearance both block & head clame to have just been resurfaced but idk dude has a nice gouge in the freshly surfaced block where the head bolts to the block im gonna have the machine shop clean it up nothing major just sucks cause I noticed it right after handed dude the $ defenatly repaireable wasnt stressing too much cause I knew I had to rebore anyhow I bought the bare block with crank girdle main caps n bolts & eagle rods for $400 I aquired my LS eagle rods new in box from my dsm I sold few weeks back along with my cp pistons skunk cam gears act hd clutch jdm 8.8 lb kaiten flywheel 2 oem hg tensioner alc b18c main rod bearing kit hondata b16/itr heatshield arp 9m rod bolts arp head studs oem timing belt & more ALL NEW plus cash for my blown GSX DSM gotta love craigslist lol
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1heavy4dr
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Jul 26, 2005 05:26 PM




