Shot in the dark, i have (2) d16a6 blocks, Block 1 has a 1 piece girdle for the mains, Block 2 has like individual maincaps . I had pistons in Block 1 but had bad cylinder walls so i'm tranferring parts over to Block 2. any1 know if I can just use the 1piece girdle from block 1 one the one that had the individual main caps (block 2). Seems like the girdle would be the better choice of the two for strength since nitrous is goin back on it. But I'm jus curious if they are the same, they look identical except the obvious

 

Any1???

 

My concern would be the main bearing clearances..

The two individual blocks were line bored with the caps or the girdle in place,

So swapping parts from block to block could cause
a bearing clearance issue if the two aren't machined exactly the same..

 

go ahead. just plastigauge the bearings to double check the clearances.

 

Exactly.

If you are going to swap mains (or cam caps for that matter) it's a REALLY GOOD idea to have them line bored but generally speaking if you have the original parts that's what you would ideally want to use.

Kind of off topic but still relevant, I've never seen individual mains on an A6 block. Is there a specific year that it came that way?

 

lol, not off topic at all. I work at a honda/ Acura performance shop n we have never ran into this n have been askin people too. Same answers...."individual mains???" i'll post picks in a minute

 

Both blocks D16A6
The first one is off the one I pulled out, (I wanted to put it in the new block)

The second pic is from the block I'm rebuilding n droppin in tonight

(I pulled a main loose to make it a lil easier to see)

 

Weird, figured someone here would know why these are different

 

Is one a 88 block and the other 89+?

 

The one that was solid girdle was in my 91, but IDK if its the original motor, the other came out of my friends 90 but same thing... dont kno if they are originals

 

Just so people know, 88-89 D16A6 had a steel main caps and separate girdle, 90-91 had a one piece aluminum girdle.

 

Now this is scary - you work on people's engines but don't know you should line bore when you switch caps of any kind around/ or what's interchangeable? Do it right and get the stuff line bored - it's only around $100 at my machine shop.