the plan was to replace the old clutch to a brand new clutch kit and flywheel for my 1994 GS-R (1994 GS-R TRANS, NO GRINDS OR "PROBLEMS" AT ALL BEFORE INSTLLATION)

INSTALLED ALL THE BELOW INCLUDING ALLIGNMENT, TORQUE SEQUENCE AND SPECS ...

-new competition stage II clucth/pressure plate
-new fork and throw-out bearing
-used ACT PROLITE FLYWHEEL w/ new pilot bearing
-new arp flywheel bolts
-new arp pressure plate bolts

started the car, got to test drive it. (just driving in the neighborhood 1st to 5th gear) OF REGULAR DRIVING...

returned home:
BLED THE CLUTCH SYSTEM
attempted to test drive the car again...

started the car (ENGINE RUNNING), pressed on the clutch pedal and attempted to put the car in 1st gear...WIERD THING WAS THAT IT COULDN'T COMPLETELY GO INTO GEAR!!! TRIED THE OTHER GEARS (WHILE HOLDING THE CLUTCH DOWN,) AND STILL IT WOULDN'T GO INTO GEAR...

ANOTHER WEIRD THING I NOTICED WAS WHEN I STARTED TO JUST FORCE IT INTO 1ST GEAR (PUSHING AND HOLDING THE SHIFTER,) THE CAR CREPT FOWARD...W/ NO GRINDING OR WIERD SOUNDS FROM THE TRANS AGAIN WHILE HOLDING THE CLUTCH PEDAL DOWN STILL. IT WENT THE SAME IN ALL GEARS EXCEPT IT ONLY GRINDS ON REVERSE

I TURNED THE CAR OFF, AND ANOTHER WIERD THING!!! I COULD SHIFT INTO ANY GEAR...

I PUT THE CAR IN "KEY ON POSITION" AND ANOTHER WEIRD THING!!! IT COULDN'T SHIFT COMPLETELY IN TO ANY GEAR JUST LIKE WHILE THE CAR WAS AT IDLE....

WHAT THE HECK IS GOIN ON!?!?!?!? SOMEONE HELP ME....WEIRD!!!

NOT THAT GREAT WITGH B-SERIES...

 

no i did not forget about the manual transmission fluid

I KNOW WHAT I'M DOING, I JUST DON'T KNOW HOW TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM WITH OUT REMOVING THE TRANS AGAIN, BUT IF IT COMES TO THAT THEN IT SUKCS...LOL....DAMMM ME

 

Have you checked the clutch pedal adjustment?

 

no, never touched it, i don't think it can be it since i got to test drive the car after the installation and it did it's job...

it's just weird how it ended up not going into gear....

otherwise, how shall i adjust it??? lower or higher???

 

seen this thread "https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2470181"...extact problem, but not enough...

replaced my clutch master and slave not to long ago before installing the new clutch kit...and the pressure on the clutch pedal is there....

i started the car in 1st gear holding the clutch pedal down, while craniking the car moves then stalls.......

 

check ur gear selector.. it could be hitting the intake

 

So let me see if I understand this right...

Without ever disconnecting or opening the clutch hydraulic line, you got everything installed and went for a test drive. On the test drive the car shifted fine.

Then, when you got back, you bled the clutch. Now it doesn't go into gear.

Is this right?

If so, the only thing I see that couldve gone wrong is you messed up the bleed and introduced air into the system. How exactly did you bleed it?

 

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=644

 

rebleed it

 

YES,

FIRST I DID WHAT THIS GUY SAID ON HONDA SWAP
"you can do it by yourself.
Put the wrench on the end of the bleeder valve, put a hose over the nipple, put the other end of the hose in a cup of brake fluid, open the valve, press and release the pedal 20 times or so. Close the valve, get back in press and release the pedal...it will get stiff."

SECOND, I DID WHAT EVERYONE DOES...HAVING A FRIEND PUMP COUPLE TIMES AND HOLD THEN I BLEED, CLOSE THE VALVE WHILE KEEPING THE FLUID LEVEL AT MAX...


HOW DO I FLUSH THE SYSTEM AND PROPERLY ADD FLUID???

 

what's that?

 

He might be referring to an accord/prelude style tranny where the cables for the shifter mount on top. Either way, that's not your problem.

Everything worked fine + only had problems after bleeding = you did something wrong while bleeding.

One thing to try that worked for me on a BMW that I replaced the slave on... After bleeding it, the car wouldn't go into gear. Once you've bled the system normally, close the bleeder and don't open it again. Now, slowly pump the pedal 10-15 times (you might have to pull it back up each time). Wait 5 minutes, then pump 15 more times. After about the 4th cycle of this, the pedal had pressure and the car shifted great. I don't know if this will work on a different style system, but it won't hurt and is worth a try.

 

sounds like either air in the system or a bad slave or master cylinder. all easy and cheap. don't worry, just bleed the **** out of it, when I did my clutch took me 3-4 tries to really get the clutch system free of air

 

hang in there my man....above poster is right.....just bleed the hell of it..

 

Do that ^^^^^ then readjust the pedal.

 

what if i'm using a new oem clutch fork and throw out bearing that didn't come w/ the aftermarket pressure plate, clutch and flywheel i got?....wouldn't matter right???

it's got to be AIR! we'll see....

 

That would not even matter...you said its was working at first but then when you rebleed it the second time by your self, air bubbles may had got into the system..thus when you tried pressing the pedal there's not enought pressure to press the pressure plate....gud luck....

 

Well.. it happen to me and it was the throw out bearing. Maybe because I didn't use the same throw out bearing that came with the clutch kit. So I swap out the throw out bearing that came with the clutch kit and everything work great.

 

my bad for the late reply guys...

problem solved....

after buying a new clutch slave and master for nothing and bleeding the hell out of it...

i decided to drop the transmission again, then there, i really took a good look...i thought why were the splines on the pressure plate wavy???

so i replaced the new pp to the old pp....BOOOOOOM ALL GOOOOOOOOOOOOOD~!!!