gsr tranny stuck in gear
this has probably been asked but i suck at searching so i thought i could throw this out there.
jdm gsr tranny swapped into cx
car just drove 2hrs/150 miles just fine
go to drive it again and it wont get in gear
moves freely while car is off and
if i try to start it in gear it just jumps
is it shift linkage?
ahift fork?
help me out!!! i need to get to work tomorrow!!!
jdm gsr tranny swapped into cx
car just drove 2hrs/150 miles just fine
go to drive it again and it wont get in gear
moves freely while car is off and
if i try to start it in gear it just jumps
is it shift linkage?
ahift fork?
help me out!!! i need to get to work tomorrow!!!
Always Check the fluid level first but if the fluid level is fine then I would bet on a bent fork. does it actually go into all the gears with the engine off. probally low fluid would be my guess
yep, either low fluid level or air in clutch lines or worn clutch. either one of the two will cause it to do that..check for slave cyl leaks and also clutch master cylinder leaks while your at it so it doesnt happen again
i have the same problem but its neither the fluid or a bent fork. im not too sure if its the clutch, it never slipped before the problem. now its been sitting on my driveway since november...
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wen the car is on n u try n put it in gear it feels like its locked out n wont go into any gear... wen off it goes into every gear.
n yes the pin is still in place..
taking the tranny out now
n yes the pin is still in place..
taking the tranny out now
many miles on it? seems like either theres mismatched parts or disc is f'd. if fluids are good and no air in line nor leaks then its in ur clutch. was the clutch all one kit or just a new disc cuz if its just the disc that got replaced then thats the culprit
Ok, before you go and just start taking stuff apart I suggest you actually try and diagnois it. first thing I would do is monitor the slave cly while somebody is pressing the clutch in. 2 things you are going to be looking for are if it actually presses it down and also have the person hold the clutch in and see if it bleeds off pressure. if it bleeds off then you either have a leak or is internally leaking in the master cly. if it dosent compress then try and open the bleeder valve on the slave cly and press the clutch in again to see if it shoots out fluid. if so then your master is good and the slave is bad. if it dosent shoot out fluid then the master is bad and after replacing you need to retest to check slave. once you have figured out the hydraulic portion is working then you can move on to the actual clutch part. if it goes into gear with the car off then before starting it put it into first gear and start the car and slowly release to see that it starts to engage and is working normal. ( you may try this with several gears) if everything seems to be fine except you cant shift while running then I will still lean towards a fork or synchro. although synchros are usally gear specific so if you cant put it into any gear then this is the least likely. dumb question but when did this start? after installing something? after racing? these things can be very beneficial to actually figuring out what is wrong. I would hope that with the above test you should be able to figure it out but if not then I would try a known good trans. good luck
Ok, before you go and just start taking stuff apart I suggest you actually try and diagnois it. first thing I would do is monitor the slave cly while somebody is pressing the clutch in. 2 things you are going to be looking for are if it actually presses it down and also have the person hold the clutch in and see if it bleeds off pressure. if it bleeds off then you either have a leak or is internally leaking in the master cly. if it dosent compress then try and open the bleeder valve on the slave cly and press the clutch in again to see if it shoots out fluid. if so then your master is good and the slave is bad. if it dosent shoot out fluid then the master is bad and after replacing you need to retest to check slave. once you have figured out the hydraulic portion is working then you can move on to the actual clutch part. if it goes into gear with the car off then before starting it put it into first gear and start the car and slowly release to see that it starts to engage and is working normal. ( you may try this with several gears) if everything seems to be fine except you cant shift while running then I will still lean towards a fork or synchro. although synchros are usally gear specific so if you cant put it into any gear then this is the least likely. dumb question but when did this start? after installing something? after racing? these things can be very beneficial to actually figuring out what is wrong. I would hope that with the above test you should be able to figure it out but if not then I would try a known good trans. good luck
if your not going to follow the test procedures and just replace parts then have fun with that, you could actually find out what the problem is or slave hours and hours never knowing what is wrong. do your self a favor and take it to a professional.
Just because it has a new clutch kit, doesn't mean that it's good. I suspect the pressure plate to be the problem.
I am actually forced to take my swap back out now, because of a bad pressure plate. I got a used 46,xxx mile ITR flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing from a friend before I did my swap, now I have the same problems as you are having. Goes into every gear nice and smooth, while car is off. As soon as you start it, nothing, wont go into any gear. I have all new clutch master and slave cylinders, clutch release fork and spring.
Shifted perfectly when I removed the LS engine/trans, now I have a B16A/GSR trans setup. I have trouble shot and tested every component that I can with the engine still in the car, everything points to bad pressure plate. Luckily for me, I have a brand new, 4,683 miles, clutch kit that I am going to take off my LS engine, since they are the same P/N as the GSR clutch kit.
My .02 is you have a bad pressure plate. Did you notice any bent fingers on it, since you have removed it and checked it?
I am actually forced to take my swap back out now, because of a bad pressure plate. I got a used 46,xxx mile ITR flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing from a friend before I did my swap, now I have the same problems as you are having. Goes into every gear nice and smooth, while car is off. As soon as you start it, nothing, wont go into any gear. I have all new clutch master and slave cylinders, clutch release fork and spring.
Shifted perfectly when I removed the LS engine/trans, now I have a B16A/GSR trans setup. I have trouble shot and tested every component that I can with the engine still in the car, everything points to bad pressure plate. Luckily for me, I have a brand new, 4,683 miles, clutch kit that I am going to take off my LS engine, since they are the same P/N as the GSR clutch kit.
My .02 is you have a bad pressure plate. Did you notice any bent fingers on it, since you have removed it and checked it?
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