Hi guys,

I will try to give fullest description possible to eliminate a runaround.

96 Del Sol S stock D16y7

136K on the clock
-newer wires, plugs, rotor, cap, fuel filter, air filter
-timing belt done at 92K
-water pump same as above

The same day it didn't start i got new battery (Autocraft gold) it did strt few times for tests and it did crap out on me 15 miles from home (of corz).

Had to tow it home not only because I didn't have any tools but it was dark.

Checked all the fuses, fuel pump makes priming noise

It turns but it doesn't catch at all. First few times I turend it after it died it acted like it is almost starting but after that it just turns and no strt at all.

Could that be in any way related to brand new battery? Could something (relay, ignition module, ecu) burn due to highier voltage than new battery.

It died about 20 miles and 5 starts after I put new battery in.

Any help is greatly appriciated

Mike

 

AutoZone can test your ignition module. I can only imagine your ECU is working correctly if it sends the signal out to prime the fuel pump. Any check engine lights?

 

Just got car back home and I din't have time to check with code reader (bulb is disconnected because it was always on (secondary o2 sensor simulator). Car was SUPERB for last 50 K miles (since i own it) and never har any problem - untill i got new battery

Now im 200 bucks in a hole :D

2morrow after work i will check everything I can and post a report (I work 3 miles from home so i can bicycle my *** there in 15 min

Thank you for any suggestions ... let the brainstorming commence

 

Hi guys,

So i got back home and this is what i had a chence to find out:

- I GOT NO SPARK (tested by remote engine starter and not seing spark when removed from the head and connected to the corresponding spark wire)
- I got fuel - pump primes and fuel spews from banjo bolt when loosened up and remote started
- Main relay clicks (once at the end of pump priming) when ignition in on position
- All fuses under the dash and under the hood in order
- Timing belt is not broken because rotor of distributor is turning when remote started
- No codes - tested with a code reader (no current and no old codes detected)
- I will have to change spark plugs and rotor (they don't look newer anymore) but plugs not fouled, burned or in any kind of unwanted residue

Need help figuring out what to test first and not to buy bunch of unnecessary spare parts

What are the option for no spark condition out of nowhere (just brand new battery - car died the same day but not right away (five starts and 20 miles later)

- internal problem with main relay?
- Ignitor problem in the distributor?
- out of the blue wireing problem?
- Bad Ecu?


Any imput on that case really appriciated - please respond with ideas

Mike

 

Sounds to me like its your Ignition module. I had the same thing happen to me when i had my crx. It drove me crazy cause i couldn't figure it out! But once replaced, started everytime no problem

 

Can it be gotten separately from the whole distributor I do I have to buy a set?

How Can it be tested to make sure this is the problem?

 

Yes. I beleive Auto Zone has them. Not sure though. I ordered mine online. And its located inside the dizzy, just take it apart and you'll it.

 

Oh and like SimpleAznMan said you Can get it tested at Auto Zone so i guess they should have it. Hope this helps mang

 

if not the above it could also be dirty ground wire connection...thats what it was with me gsr eg when i had it..

 

Never had single no-start or hard-start episode in 3 years and 50K miles I own it. I do maintenance myself and all grounds are cleaned. But tahnk you for suggestion.

 

You should pull off your dizzy cap and check the rotor for anything that looks wierd. Other than that i'd def get the Ignition module checked out

 

I have ohm-metered ignition coil just now (off the car - I took dizzy out and took it apart indoors)

I got 1.2 ohm between A and B (+ and -)
and
8.8 Komh between A and C (+ and secondary)

it is not within the specs - is that a clear sign that igniter coil is bad?

I will take igniter module to make a test at advance auto (on my wy back from work - on a bicycle )

Can someone comment on the resistance numbers i got from coil test

 

Damn dood, to be honest i can't remember what spec is but, its not sounding good. I went ahead and found the part you need on Advanced Auto website. Part #CBE619 $95.79 For the OE Upgrade

 

x2 on that

 

Did you get it figured out yet Mike? We gotta get you rollin in your Sol instead of using your Toyotoe's! Lmfao. Let me know mang

 

Took the ICM to both Advanced and Autozone but they couldn't test it because of lack of proper harness (they had the device but not the right harness form your hondas)

2morrow im gonna skip to a neighborhood pick-a-part and try to secure correct dizzy, main relay and ignition switch ... just for a testing purposes.

Lets hope it's going to be as easy as dizzy :D

 

there is a tool you can make to test igniters in honda's its in the very old service manuals inclues an aligator clip, a small clip, 2 feet of wire and a LED, flashes its good dosn't flash its bad, quickest and easiest way i have had to diag an igniter i do it at least once a month.

also honda does not sell igniters seperatly anymore tried to get one a few months ago its dizzy assembly or nothing.

 

"newer wires, plugs, rotor, cap"

Just changing the rotor and cap wont do **** imho. I got tired of that kind of replacement, now I just buy the whole dizzy.

Of course I'm saying that now that I had gone through it already. My dizzy died to so I replaced the internals, including the ignition module, and it went bad again a week later. That to me says if the dizzy died once and the ignition module the second time after replacement, something else in the dizzy was causing a problem. Only after replacing the dizzy was everything fixed.

New dizzy in my opinion sir.

 

Are you really gonna Skip? Like how little girls do? Hahahahah

 

No, I'm going to bounce like a fat fuc*er ....
BTW south florida Pick-a-part sucks. There is only a handful of them in the region and the one in Fort Lauderdale area is a complete suck ***. $2 to enter and all the cars are taken apart to the bone. Forget about getting anything useful out of there ... thats well deserved name for them - JUNK YARD

 

Hahaha dude, if i had one that i could give you, I totally would...Out of sympathy Let me ask the homies. I'm sure that they got much much more than your Junk Yards do, just layin in their garage. lol

 

BTW ... did it happen to anyone that new battery caused some other charging/ignition part to go bad right away - or my situation is more of a weird coincidence ?