How do I set up the engine management so it won't have to be retuned every season?
I have a GSR swap, blah blah blah, thinking about going Hondata S300.
Anyway, is there a way to have it set up so that I can tune it once, or maybe once when it's hot and once when it's cold outside so I don't have to retune the car every season? I know Hondata has an Autotune feature, will it keep the targeted A/F ratios on it's own?
I'm not looking to cheap out on tuning, I'm dropping a lot of money on everything else and willing to pay to play. I just want to know if there's a way to make a tuned setup act like a factory car where it will adjust on it's own so that it's a little easier to keep as a DD? Lately we've had the temperature go from like 35 at night to in the 80s in the day, in only like a week.
Anyway, is there a way to have it set up so that I can tune it once, or maybe once when it's hot and once when it's cold outside so I don't have to retune the car every season? I know Hondata has an Autotune feature, will it keep the targeted A/F ratios on it's own?
I'm not looking to cheap out on tuning, I'm dropping a lot of money on everything else and willing to pay to play. I just want to know if there's a way to make a tuned setup act like a factory car where it will adjust on it's own so that it's a little easier to keep as a DD? Lately we've had the temperature go from like 35 at night to in the 80s in the day, in only like a week.
That's just part of tuning it. Factory cars don't "automaticly" adjust, they are tuned to run a certain way. If you want to have it start and run correctly in 35* weather, it needs to be tuned in that weather, same for any other temprature or condition.
I know the car has a IAT sensor, I am unsure when the ECU takes that reading into account. I'm new to the world of tuning.
The problem with having one tune is it can get to below zero in the winter and then 100 in the summer. It seems like there would be temperature tables and maybe that would be used as a value the fuel would be multiplied by. Otherwise I know the ECU normally takes O2 sensor readings and compensates based on those up to some certain amount. I know a lot of people disable the O2, I don't understand why.
The problem with having one tune is it can get to below zero in the winter and then 100 in the summer. It seems like there would be temperature tables and maybe that would be used as a value the fuel would be multiplied by. Otherwise I know the ECU normally takes O2 sensor readings and compensates based on those up to some certain amount. I know a lot of people disable the O2, I don't understand why.
the ecu goes into closed loop in full throttle, but normally you drive in partial throttle and open loop once the engine is warm.
that's incorrect. closed loop is when the o2 sensor readings determine a/f's...
full throttle puts the ecu into open loop, where the tune is dictated by preset tables
people disable the o2s because it's a pain in the *** trying to tune/run a boosted car via closed loop...so they tune the tables how they want it to run, and that's how it runs all the time.
full throttle puts the ecu into open loop, where the tune is dictated by preset tables
people disable the o2s because it's a pain in the *** trying to tune/run a boosted car via closed loop...so they tune the tables how they want it to run, and that's how it runs all the time.
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