Short story...

Swapped D16Y7 onto 91 civic hatch DX.
Did the whole wiring convertions DPFI to MPFI.
Ported and polish the head,
Edelbrock Intake Manifold
Bullfrog camshaft
RC engineering bored out Throttle body.
Cold air intake.
PM6 ECU with OBD 0.
Aftermarket Ebay Headers.

I drove it for about 30 mins and revved it up to 4500rpm.. the CEL on??
Do you guys know why?
No vacuum leaks.. everything good.

Any help?

Thank you.

 

what are the codes?

 

Its hard man, I've tried..and it gave so many diff codes.
Since the motor '96 and Im using '90-'91 Civic SI ECU - PM6 with Obd 0, it just throwin so many different codes.... siigghed..

Any helps?

 

just count the flashes on the ecu since its still obd0

 

yeah. remember it throws the codes according to what the ECU needs. not the motor( idk if that made sense lol )

i have a b16 (obd2) and have it with an obd1 ECu (p28) i have to see what codes the P28 has,not the obd2 motor.

Make Sense ? lol

 

either pull your hazard fuse at the strut tower or ECU fuse, pull the + battery cable to clear the codes and start over.

E

 

Yeah seriously nobody is going to be able to help you UNTIL you extract the codes.

 

Thank you all, Thank you again very much for all your replied.

Well I talked to Tuned shop here in Los Angeles, called Church Automotive.According to what they said.. with all the modification upgrade I have I need to reprogram and change to Hondata ECU.

With my stock PM6 honda ECU, the ECU may not be right to run with all the stuff I have now.

Oh well.. I dont know if these right or not.. hopefully okay.

 

Does the light go away after you turn the car off then back on?

 

yup the CEL light goes away after I turn the engine off.. but after I drive it again and revved it just little.. 4500rpm it will back ON again..

 

what codes are u getting? it will b easy to tell u whats wrong if u just tell us wat codes ur throwing.. u dont need hondata with the setup u have trust me..

 

Thats why I dont know..I will find out when I get home.Im at work now.

Thanks again.

 

but one thing remember guys, I changed the air ratio.. right now im getting more air
I didnt change the fuel at all..

Ported Head.
Bored out TB.
Bored out Intake manifold.

Dont you guys think, I might need to reprogram the ECU? "cuz the stock ECU only reads everything stock, but apparently not.

 

i have ran setups close to what u have and i didnt have to change my ecu. i have run a VAFC 2 on it but i have also ran it with a stock ecu.. it sounds like u have something else wrong.. maybe wiring wrong or something.. all u gota do is count the flashing lights and tell us what code numbers u have and we can help u out.. to me it kinda sounds like a bad TPS or MAP sensor

 

i have the same problem but i still have a stock 89 ed sedan and i get this cel when i go above 40 and then slow down quickly, i looked at the ecu and it blinks once then goes off then blinks once just like it does when there is no cel and it does go off after i turn it off then on again so im not sure what it is

 

one blink is code one and thats for a bad o2 sensor..

 

yea i know already my car burns oil thats probly why but i figured there was some realitivity with this since it dosent happen at low speeds... under 35-40

 

codes please. dont go saying "i need a new this and that" without finding what your problem is. after seeing what your problem is then you can decide whether or not you need a new ecu or just some small fixes. make it easier on yourself as well as us, and take a video of the ECU LED light when your CEL is on, that way if you dont know how to read the codes we can read them and tell you what is wrong.

 

If this is a code 1 O2 problem, it doesn't always mean "a bad O2 sensor", it can be that the sensor is working correctly and is reading emissions beyond what the ECU is looking for and can compensate for. A code 1 will clear from the cluster lights when you turn the ignition off but will still be stored in the ECU until it is reset.
I had a code 1 issue a few years back, the CEL would come on after about 20 minutes of driving at 3000 RPMs. My issue ended up being a timing problem that was giving emission readings outside of the ECU's parameters. I'm not saying you have timing problems but you have changed a lot of things with fuel and air and your ECU can't deal with readings outside of the parameters it was set up for.

 

I bet its going to be the o2 sensor. The CEL for that sensor will come on after driving a bit..then dissapear when you start up the car.

 

Yeah my money is on the O2 sensor as well. I've had this same issue in the past. Only time CEL went on and then off as soon as the car was turned off was when the O2 sensor needed to be replaced.

 

Thats your problem. Im willing to bet you have the o2 located on the downpipe right? Is the header polished 4/2/1 with two bungs for o2s?

I didnt read that earlier, but the o2 sensor for obd0 has to be near the head. The ECU is set up to read the temperature at a certain distance away from the exhaust valves. If you got a p28 ecu, the problem would be solved. I bet you put the o2 sensor on the downpipe because your header was too close to the stock radiator fan huh?

 

^that is something new to me, good piece of information right there regarding the O2 sensor placement

 

my old sedan i had an 16 in there, stock rad fan, with ebay 4/2/1 header, which had two bungs for the o2 sensors. That way, you can use the header really on ALL D series, even the obd2 which require two o2 sensors.

There isnt enough clearance between the header and radiator fan to let you put the o2 in the stock location. So i had to use the bottom location, which made my car run kind of weird and i had a CEL.