Running an Injen CAI, Invidia header, and Sk2 full exhaust on my '07 Si. I recently purchased a used ACT Prolite, but need to pair it up with a solid clutch. I'm going to be purchasing a FlashPro very shortly and perhaps even go SC next summer. I am leaning toward the CC Stage 3 with the 6 puck iron. I was thinking of going with the Stage 4 with the sprung 6 puck ceramic, but will the engagement be too harsh for DD?

 

i ran a "stage 3" clutch for about 2years before selling my car. i loved it, but then again i like a really stiff engagement. most of my friends that drove my car did not like it at all and thought it was too stiff, especially for daily driving.

 

That's what she said.


On a serious note, I don't see why you guys are going for anything higher than a stage 1 or 2 if you're car's not dumping any more than 350 whp.

Where's Kidnkorner at when you need him?

 

lol...i was thinking about that when i wrote that.

forgot to mention that this "stage 3" clutch was used on my probe that made 390whp. so i guess i cant say i know what its like on civics.

 

I've made 414whp and still have the stock clutch. K5 is right, you don't need to get a silly high stage with just bolt ons. Also stage 3 and 4 may mean shorter life due to the material's friction coefficient. The "stiffness" comes from the pressure plate, and from what I understand about that from kidnkorner you need to be careful with that because you run the risk of blowing out master cylinders


It is my understanding that you need to pick the lowest stage that provides adequate clamping force anything higher and it's overkill and ruins drivability.

 

Okay, well having learned this, would you recommend Exedy, CC, or ClutchMaster? Probably just going to run the Stage 2 at this point.

 

I wouldn't go with a Competition Clutch kit unless you want to run a Competition Clutch flywheel as well. I just spent the last 5 months going through hell with my CC kit, only to find out they only guarantee their clutch kit will with work with their own flywheels.

Basically, the clutch would not disengage fully. We ended up dropping the tranny, only to find everything had been installed 100% correctly. The disc seemed abnormally thick for the pressure plate the kit came with. So I sent it back to CC, only to have them tell me there was nothing wrong with the kit. Their only means of compensation was to offer me a discount on one of their flywheels. Why? Because their kits are crap, and only work with CC flywheels.

It's pretty bad business to force someone to use your flywheel, without at least forewarning the consumer before a purchase is made. So far, I've wasted over 400 bucks replacing parts that didn't need replacing, only to find out it wasn't my car that had the problem. But rather, their faulty kit. I also will be needing to fully rebuild my tranny, as every synchro has been fried from trying to shift gears with a clutch that doesn't fully disengage.

If you need further proof, here you go. https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/stage-4-competition-clutch-6-puck-problem-2467480/

I'm not the only one having disengagement issues with their clutch kits.

Just a fair a warning.

 

i never heard of any problems with cc except when you have them, you need to buy an oem throw out bearing cuz theirs are crap from what i've heard and been told.

 

http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...oducts_id=1655

I know you guys said to stay away from stage 3, but its a sprung disc and only has a 110% holding capacity increase. Thoughts? Can I use their TOB or do I get an OEM Honda one as well?

 

everyone i know with aftermarket clutches always ditch the throw out bearing that comes with them and just buy the oem one and not one problem.

 

Well I cna tell you that puck clutches dont last as long as a full surface clutch. I would go with a stage 2 at the max. Stage 3 definatly isnt needed. And yes they are right I would get a OEM throwout bearing and use that over the one that comes in the clutch kit. Ive heard good and bad things from all the different clutch companies. So its all personal preferance.

 

This thread is urking me...AJP reccommends the cc stage 4 disc when turning up the boost. I got it but have not put it in yet. They say it's best to use the OEM pressure plate and just the stage 4 disc because using a really stiff pressure plate may cause you to "walk the crank" and or blow out the master cylinder.

If you need extra clamping force they say to use the carbonetic twin disc but it's like 2 grand!

I'm having no problems now but am turning up the boost so I don't know if the stock clutch will hold. So I'm gonna put in the cc stage 4. I'm gonna be pissed if this clutch doesnt work out good.

I have to put one in though because the stock one is holding fine at 400whp and 300 torque but at 500whp I don't think the stock will hold.

 

You have an ACT Prolite, pair it up with an ACT clutch. Highly recommended. Heavy duty AR1-HDSS 257ft/lbs or Extreme AR1-XTSS 338ft/lbs. For a DD pucks are to harsh, even sprung, also unless you want to change your clutch every year or so stay away. I have ran most brand on the market, but by far the most value for the price is ACT.

 

I used an ACT with the Extreme pressure plate and sprung 6 puck in my H22 EG for quite some time and had no problems. But the fellas on 8th gen said to stay far away from ACT due to issues such as crank walk.

 

With either or you can't go wrong. I wouldn't put the stage 4 unless you plan on putting some drag radials and hitting the track. My Comp Stage 2 Carbon Kevlar worked wonderful.

 

Like importds mention^You'll be ok with any well known brand, just remember to choose a clutch system rated over your projected ft/lbs of torque and you'll be find but don't over kill.

 

no offense, but you have such minor/weak mods on your car, upgrading past the stock clutch sounds rather pointless. the stock clutch can handle a lot thrown at it, beautiful engagement, lasts a long time.. why you think you need a stage 3 clutch is beyond me.