Yup just that, once engine reaches tempeture the car misfires and seems almost to cut in and out of power.

Cleaned Connections inside distrubutor (slight corrosion)
Replaced Plugs
Replaced Wires
Replaced Cap & Rotor

None of this changed the characteristics of driving stayed the same.

Like clockwork engine gets normal operating tempeture car misfires and doesnt accelerate and seems to cut in and out....

 

Sounds like a heat issue with the electronics in the distributor. I would try another one.

 

is it overheating? what engine is it and what mods do you have?

 

head gasket

 

no engines not over heating at all, its a stock OBD2 JDM GSR w/ a USDM OBD2 ecu, in a 2000 Si Chassis, this came all of a sudden out of nowhere, my friend thinks it might be the coil in the distributor, we did a quick ohm test today and the resistance value is within spec but that doesn't rule out that it could be a bad coil.

 

If its within spec then no. And if it happens as soon as the car heats up then its def not the coil. Your saying it doesnt smoke at all?

 

Nope no smoke, nothing just drive for 5 mins and misfire comes back but it's weird because it will go back to not misfiring for a split second every once in awhile and drives ok for that split second but then back to misfiring. I'll even be at a red light and the misfire is causing the car to most stall then for that split second it will idle smooth then bam back to crappy idle and misfiring. As much as I like the way subarus sound, that noise should never come from a Honda when accelerating.

 

subarus sound gay lol

how many cylinders is it misfiring on? and if you turn it off and turn it back on does it instantly start misfiring again?

 

it seems like just one poss. 2 cylinders, when i replaced all the ignition parts to see if that would help the rotor, cap leads had some slight corrosion on them, and cylinder 1 spark plug was fouled out bad, i replaced all these items last year at this time with quality stuff (O.E. cap/Rotor, NGK Vpower Plugs, O.E. 8mm wires) i have no engine code popping up to help the situation which doesnt make sence theres obiously something wrong (yes the light works), and no if i shut it off and then turn it back on it stays the same, misfires. The guys i talked to last night said they feel real confident its something going on with that distributor, i have to special order the coil but i really dont wanna pay 350-450 for a new distributor, someone said try using a SOHC distributor to test because i dont have any friends that have a GSR one, i chuckled when he said that but is that even possible im up for anything right now, all this has to happen at once with all my other money problems damn....

 

I dont think a D series dizzy would fit on there. But you could try to swap the ignition control module out for a different one. And doesnt the GSR mani have butterflies? Could they be getting stuck closed? I'm not sure about this because I dont know how it works exactly.

 

yeah it does have the iabs "butterflies" but that wont cause this symptom, i ran with them disconnected for over a year before i hard wired them up, either way im completely open for suggestion, i watched the plunger open when the ignition is turned on so there working properly the engine only has 50k on it...

 

do you know which cylinders its missfiring on specifically?

 

no unfortunatly i dont have a scanner that reads independant cylinder misfire, modis and snap on scan tools dont show anything as far as that goes, and i dont own a honda scanner, so i do not know which cylinder is misfiring, i have new distributor coming on tuesday or wednesday, that ppl keep telling me could very well be the problem, i would replace the ignition control module and coil but for 40 more dollars i can buy a new distributor with all new connections and everything. but thats where im at now. i still dont understand why the check engine light isnt coming on or flashing...

 

u dont need any kind of a scanner to figure out which cylinder(s) it is. All you need is hands. You just unplug an injector or a spark plug from a cylinder and see if the misfire gets worse. If it doesnt than thats the cylinder that is misfiring.

 

i will have to see what i can do ill have to look at it tomorrow night

 

whats the fuel pressure?

imt hinking that during warmup, the AFR is a bit on the rich side normally until engine reaches operating temp then goes back to stoich afr, just a thought though

 

im up for anything ill have to check it out later, im not 100% sure.

 

well last night i decided to replace the spark plugs and it breathed life back into the engine, i drove it for 100 miles and its back to how it should be, i cant believe i overlooked something so small, and i guess lession learned if theres ever a misfire always start with cap, rotor, plugs, WIRES! Just because it passed the resistance check means nothing well thanks for the info and help guys i really appreciate it.

 

im glad you got it fixed