I finally got my car retuned in CO. When it was finished I was told i needed a new radiator cap got that fixed now im poping hoses! It has been the two smaller hoses under the distributer and vtec solinoide. Both in the same night the first happened while driving the second happened about half hour after shutting it down. Any ideas?

 

are they clamped on

 

you are pressurizing the coolant system, are you usings ARP head studs? could be a couple of things, bad head gasket, cracked sleeve. i would start looking now

 

No im not using head studs, and no breather tank other than the stock one on the back of the block. The car is only running 10psi, and oil is not milky so i dont think it is the head gasket. Hoses are NOT slipping off they are actually getting pin holes in them. If i cracked a sleeve would the car be noticably slower? Never cracked a sleeve so I dont know. Car is still as fast as ever. Im just trying to check everything else before i pull the head... I dont have the money to build the head yet so dont want to pull it unless i have to. Can you think any thing else before i have to pull the head. If I did crack a sleeve could i tell in a compression test?

 

you need a breather system and you need headstuds, car has a blown headgasket most likely.

 

whats your setup? is this just stock with turbo setup? lil more info thanks

 

Stock GSR with a skunk 2 im, Sc61, 780cc injectors, aem afr in low 11's. Just let me know if you need any more info. Like i said NO breather and oil looks good NOT MILKY

 

when my gsr did this it was a cracked sleeve, could also be a headgasket....oil doesnt have to be milky to have a blown headgasket......

 

you CAN have a head that is ever so slightly lifting under boost and not have "milky" oil...

 

ok but if it was a blown head gasket would the car still run great? The car is still as fast as it was before.

 

if its a very small area where the hg is letting pressure out under boost then you may not be able to tell. If I were you I would start by PROPERLY bleeding your coolant system and making sure there is NO air in it whatsoever. THEN go drive and hit full boost, and then if you seem to quickly pressurize your coolant system(bubles in overflow, fluctuating temp guage, blowing hoses etc) you know you have a lifting head if its fine out of boost.

 

do a compression test and you will find out whats going on.

 

I like this guys way of thinking. Troubleshoot first to pinpoint the exact issue.

 

Why did you need a new radiator cap?

 

dont just dont a compression test, do the leakdown to really see what is going on... an SC61 at 10-11psi should still make a good bit of power, I would guess your OEM head bolts and old gasket have met the end of their life if you dont have a cracked sleeve.

 

If the headgasket SEAL is bad, you'll have the 1000+ psi of pressure (when your mixture combusts) escape into the coolant passages. The reason it will idle fine is because your peak cyl pressures at idle are FAR less than when you're at WOT, and not enough to pass that poor seal. It will not suck coolant back in, nor push coolant into the crankcase. It's only when a headgasket is physically damaged or head/block warped when you'll get coolant in the cylinder or crankcase. If it is this type of HG failure, a compression test nor a leak-down will reveal much.

Think of it in terms of a floating valve. A stock spring will be fine with a stock cam at idle, but will float valves like a mother f* with a skunk2 s2 vtec lobe at 10k rpm. You also won't detect a floating valve until you actually float it.



If you re-used the stock head bolts, it's a failed HG due to failed bolts. Stock bolts are torque-to-yeild, meaning junk as soon as you unbolt them.

 

I need a new cap because the mishimoto one that came with the radiator sucks!! Very loose fit and it all came together if i remember correctly. I ordered it all together when i was IRAQ. And it went to my buddy to get installed, i got everything radiator, fan, shroud and cap