Well, yeah, im throwing cel # 1 and 7

I changed my o2 sensor to a bosch and its still throwing code 1. I don't wanna f*** with my tps because im planing on doing an obd1-mpfi conversion really soon.

The rev limiter is hitting at around 3k or something low like that (no tac in my car)

How do i get my baby out of limp mode so i can drive it around safely and why didn't my o2 sensor code go off when i replaced my o2 sensor

 

to get out of limp mode you need to fix the tps. either replace it if its bad or adjust it if it needs to be adjusted. back when i didnt have a voltmeter i would just turn the tps until the cel went away. not sure on why your still getting a code 1 did you reset the ecu?

 

turn the tps?
how exactly do you do that?

 

Im starting to think that it either isn't in limp mode, or it is in limp mode and something more is going on wrong

I drove it this morning, and it started to bog down around 35-40mph in 5th gear and was barely keepig itself alive
last night when i drove it it was startig to bog down at aournd 55-60mph on the freeway
so the issue is getting worse

Now it won't start at all
It was starting and running very weak, and cutting out almost as soon as i steped on the gas
It revs up a bit then sputters then revs then sputters
then it just wouldn't start at all

Tried 2 different ecus, no change

Im starting to think that it may be out of mechanical timing, but i checked my belt and didn't see anything wrong with it, still, it may have slipped

changed the oil 200 miles ago, it isn't knocking or smoking or anything obvious like that
just running like crap

can a tps really cause all of this to happen, should i start checking for bigger problems

im really hoping somebody else knows what this is

 

ya tps can cause that. think about it its the throttle posistion its sending the wrong info to the ecu. like i siad it could be bad or just need to be adjusted. if you look at the tps theres what look like rivets holding it on but there actually screws i forget what there called but basicly they had a bolt head on them but once your torque it to a certain point the head breaks off. so if thats what you got chances are the tps is bad. to take it off you get a hack saw and cut a slit in the rivet looking screw then use a flat head screw driver to unscrew it. once you get it off youll notice the screw holes in the tps are oval so it can be turned to adjust the signal.

 

alright, thanks man
unfortunately im stranded miles from a hack saw
ive found my tps and see the rivet-locking things
look like they should be screw heads, but are just flat, maybe i can pry them off with a flathead
?
will see what happens
ill get it off somehow

 

got my tps off havnt really tried to adjust it yet, im about to do that...
hope this works

 

alright, just to add some tech to this forum...
Got the proplem fixed.
If you are running dpfi, you have to disconnect all the vaccum, coolant lines and plugs connected to the throttle body.
Take a hacksaw and cut slits in the "screws" on the tps, and unscrew them with a flathead
i put everything back together with the screws on loose, because i wasn't close to a voltmeeter at first
Turned the tps back and forth until there was no longer a dead spot in my pedal and tightened the top screw then drove home.
I then took a voltmeeter and with the car turned on and tps sensor pluged in, cut a small notch in the middle wire, use a voltmeeter with the red wire touching the middle wire on the tps (red/blue stripe) and black on ground
turn the tps back and forth until the voltage with the throttle all the way closed reads .5 then confirm as you open the throttle all the way up it climbs to 5
screw it down tight right there and done
Works perfectly, thanks black0hatch
hope this helps somebody else out