OK, I ordered some parts from Majestic. I have a 1998 SOHC Honda Civic.

I ordered the front cam seal, front crank seal, and what I thought was the rear CAM seal. Here are the parts numbers:

91212-p2f-a01 (2) - I guess this is the front cam and front crank seal

91214-ple-003 (1) - I thought this was the rear CAM seal, but it is huge!!! I am wondering now if the CAM does not have a rear seal, just that O-ring thing for the dizzy shaft???

I would like confirmation on these parts before I tear the thing apart.

Also, for the water pump, I assume I DO NOT need to use any RTV since it has a rubber O-ring in the body, correct? Or should I?


Finally, I assume that if I line everything up, loosen the cam bolt and crank bolt for the pulleys, BEFORE, I pull anything, I should have no issues with timing, correct. Any other thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!!!! Thanks!!!!


Oh, one more thing, I bought the special tool that locks the crank pulley in with a breaker bar. Once the nut comes off does the pulley slide off or is it pressed onto the shaft, if so how do you remove it? Which way does the bolt turn to come off - counter or clockwise? Also, which way does the engine turn? I do not want to mess anything up. Thanks again!

 

from what i can find...

1.
91212-p2f-a01 - front crank seal
91213-p2f-a01 - front cam seal
91214-ple-003 - rear main seal (you would need to drop the tranny to replace)
no other cam seal on SOHC except for dizzy o-ring part# 30110-pa1-732

2.
do not use rtv on water pump, torque spec is like 9 ft/lb so dont over tighten

3.
do not loosen the cam pulley bolt. once the crank bolt is off the pulley should slide off (do not lose the woodruff key). when reassembling make sure all the marks are still lined up after you get the belt on. if not then take the belt off, align the marks and try again

4. the crank bolt is just like any other bolt. lefty loosey. also the engine should only be turned counterclosewise

 

Thanks! I'm not sure I understand the procedure for #3. I was planing on replacing the cam and crank front seals (I'm not going to touch the rear main - but will hold onto the part/seal) while I was replacing the belts, pump, etc. How do I go about replacing the cam and crank seal and timing belt without screwing up the timing? Also to double check timing which plug wire do I hook the light up to? Thanks again!!!!!

 

lol they sold you a rear main seal haha...

line the single mark on the crank pulley up with the mark on the timing belt cover and then remove the pulley. you're probably gonna need air to do this. dont forget to jump the service connecter near the ecu or the computer will try to unadjust any adjustment you make to the timing via rotating the distributor.

 

Yea, bastards! I'll hang onto it though, as you never know...

Thanks! Where is, and how do you jump the service connector, and what exactly does that do?

Also, can I pull the cam AND crank pulleys at the same time to replace the seals?????? I thought I had to have the UP and cam pulley marks lined up on the cam/head as well? Thanks again!

 

whoops forgot you were replacing the cam seal. then yes you will need to remove the cam gear. both the cam and crank have woodruff keys so that you cant put them on wrong. line up all your timing marks then loosen/remove the remove pulleys (sounds like you have the right idea already)

also rememer that once you take off the crank pulley and lower timing cover there will be a mark on the oil pump and timing belt pulley so you can make sure the crank stays lined up at tdc.

a timing light can be used to confirm ignition timing once you are done but really shouldnt be needed in this case unless you remove the dizzy or something. remember the cam timing is not effected by ignition timing. in any case you hook the light to wire #1 (closest to timing belt). service connector is under the passenger side dash. same plug you use to pull CELs. the ecu is going to be controlling most of the dizzy timing anyways so dont worry about it too much.

 

also you mentioned you have 2 of part# 91212-p2f-a01. that is the crank seal. the cam seal is listed as 91213-p2f-a01 and they are slightly different sizes. so you may want to get the correct part before moving on.

 

God damn it!!!! Thats what majestic told me!!!!!!!! $hit!!! Should I go aftermarket on the cam seal since I don't think I will have time in getting one? Thanks!

 

Oh, one more thing. I have a seal puller, will that work to pull out the cam and crank seals without having to remove the front of the oil pump housing on the crank, for example? I assume I get the tip under the rubber lip?

One more thing, do the seals go in dry, or should I put a thin coating of permatex gray on the outer seal assembly? Finally, any good hints on how to drive the seals in without tearing them up - a socket, or ???? Thanks!!!

 

you should put i timing belt on since you have it apart......

 

Thanks! Thats what I plan on doing, new belt, tensioner, pump, etc.


So a few questions that have not been answered as of yet:

Do I put any type of permatex on the outer surface of the new seals, or drive them in dry?

Whats the best tool, or socket size for driving in new seals?

Will a seal puller work, or is it better to punch an awl through the seal surface and carefully pry out?


Thanks again!