ok, i have been dealing with this for the last month. I have a 94 GSR that'll start cold and run ok. However, after its warmed up if i shut it off and try to restart it, it'll start idle around 1300-1500 for a few seconds and then stall out. If I give it gas at that point it'll stall immediately. Performed compression test and it showed that cylinder 1 was way off, PLUS spark plug was BLACK so I replaced all the rings. I also had 2 burnt exhaust valves I replaced them too. Now I'm thinking its running WAY TOO RICH because I just friggin' assumed it was the rings When (Most likely) cylinders were actually being flooded with GAS AND/OR Im having a intermittent misfire. Also I noticed I have a 3-4 inch Crack on my exhaust manifold which i think could've burnt my valves and 02 sensor. Only cel is code 90. Because I dont have any EVAP system in place. Bought it like that.

94 gsr
Actual mileage unknown
intake
3" exhaust
blox im
10w-30 oil
Premium Gas
Stock ECU

*cliff-notes*
When starting warm it Idles around 1300 then stalls. It will also stall if I give it gas at that time.
Sounds like a misfire-but no major pops or anything.
Exhaust has Grey smoke and gives a lot of small spurt sounds.
Soot on back bumper.
Head gasket replaced
Had Low compression - rings replaced.
Running Rich probably caused Burnt exhaust valves - Exhaust valves replaced
valve clearance checked
new plugs and wires
timing is good.
CEL for code 90 EVAP SYSTEM LEAK


I figure its either fuel or spark.
So I should probably check the distributor, icm, injectors, fuel filter and FPR or maybe its just the 02 takin a sh*t cause of the crack in the manifold. Would any of that cause the motor to idle and then stall?

 

Goodday,
I dont know whether this is the right thread but i guess u could assist me. My honda accord is giving off PO172 code (fuel too rich) and the car has hard start. I have replace the sparkplugs but the problem is still there. Do you have any ideas?

 

gondwana1: You'll need to start a new thread for your topic as it is usually considered rude to use someone else's thread.

misterxhybrid: Check your MAP sensor signal voltage at idle after the engine has completely warmed up to normal operating temperature.

 

Will do, thank you for the input.

Removed the 5 month old dizzy. Cleaned rotor and cap and all look good.
Checked for spark at wires and all were good.
Checked pcv and was good - Although it smelled of GAS REALLY STRONGLY.
Checked for leaks in TB was good. Inside the intake manifold was damp with Gas.
Removed injectors and replaced the all the O-Rings. The plastic ends on 2 of the injectors were cracked off but I felt as if it wouldnt affect performance.(MAYBE?)

Tried to Find IACV but couldn't? Where is it on OBD1 GSR? It wasnt on the BLOX IM.
Reset ECU.
Started Car. Idled a little better. Then got cel code 10 for the AIT sensor. Which I dont think would be causing my problems.

Pulled MAP sensor plug and car died. Figured that proves the MAP sensor works.
Tried to restart but it Wouldn't. Pulled the plugs and of course, they Reeked of GAS.
Tomorrow I shall check voltage on the MAP and Fuel pump.

 

Note the RPM when testing the MAP sensor. At normal idle it should be about .5-.7v. Much higher would mean a vacuum leak.