What kind of rear sway bar should I get for my 95 honda civic 4dr EG sedan?
Hey Ive been looking around, and I need some input on what kind of sway bar should I get for my 95 honda civic 4dr eg sedan? I can get the integra sway bar along with LCA's, and mounting brackets and bushings, or should I get it off a si civic? thanks for the help
First, an EG USDM SI does not have a rear swaybar. (I suppose you do not mean the EK SI) However, (ao) the EDM EG6 and JDM EG6 and EG9 (4d EG 'Ferio') all feature the same 15mm rear sway*, together with the (USDM) 94-97 Vtec Del Sol.
Second, it depends on what kind of handling you want. An ITR 22/23 rear sway will give you more oversteer/less understeer, an even more rigid ride, than the 15mm. Note you will need an ASR subframe brace to install the ITR sway.
You should combine the rear swaybar with it's respective front sway for stable handling (on the street).
*part# 52300-SR3-901
Second, it depends on what kind of handling you want. An ITR 22/23 rear sway will give you more oversteer/less understeer, an even more rigid ride, than the 15mm. Note you will need an ASR subframe brace to install the ITR sway.
You should combine the rear swaybar with it's respective front sway for stable handling (on the street).
*part# 52300-SR3-901
Last edited by kristo; Mar 26, 2010 at 10:05 AM. Reason: unrelated info deleted
So i would need to get front sway bar, and the rear sway bar. Change my lower control arms in the rear. What size of sway bar do i need to get? Do I need to get a subframe, depending if i get a larger sway bar right? Just need more specs, you seem to know alot about sway bars. Thanks for the help I appricate it.
It depends on what you upgrade to with respect to the rear sway bar (RSB). You already have a 21mm FSB on your car with a 13mm? RSB.
If you upgrade to a RSB below the ITR/CTR level you'll be good to go as is. No reinforcement needed on your subframe and you should be good with your FSB.
Most people go with the ITR/CTR setup. I prefer the CTR bar because the 99-00 endlinks EASILY bolt up to this bar, plus I didn't want to change my rear LCA's. You could go with the ITR bar and use the ITR endlinks if you change out your rear LCA's.
If you go this route it would behoove you to upgrade your FSB to help neutralize the oversteer tendencies.
Or you could just go the ASR or some other good sway bar company and purchase a complete setup for your car.
If you upgrade to a RSB below the ITR/CTR level you'll be good to go as is. No reinforcement needed on your subframe and you should be good with your FSB.
Most people go with the ITR/CTR setup. I prefer the CTR bar because the 99-00 endlinks EASILY bolt up to this bar, plus I didn't want to change my rear LCA's. You could go with the ITR bar and use the ITR endlinks if you change out your rear LCA's.
If you go this route it would behoove you to upgrade your FSB to help neutralize the oversteer tendencies.
Or you could just go the ASR or some other good sway bar company and purchase a complete setup for your car.
It would apear blaze the chemi mixed up your EG chassis with the EK.
This means upgrading to the EG6 15mm RSB mentioned above, ànd possibly to the 22mm EG6 SI FSB*
*also found on USDM Del Sol 93, 96-97 SI
The only things you'll need from ASR (if you use the ITR RSB or thicker) are the subframe brace with or without the ITR*, ASR 24 or 32mm RSB.
In this case you'd want to upgrade your FSB to the 24mm ITR/Del Sol Vtec, which also features a different/better endlink style (no need to swap your LCA's though).
*USDM ITR RSB 22mm, JDM ITR RSB 23mm
When swapping to the ITR RSB you might have to also swap to the ITR (LCA's* and) endlinks for proper fitment, but I'm not sure on this. In any case stick to OEM parts.
*this would mean also you'd need eye-mount shocks
It depends on what you upgrade to with respect to the rear sway bar (RSB). You already have a 21mm FSB on your car with a 13mm RSB. This means you need switching only the RSB, no other parts, in case of the 15mm swap
If you upgrade to a RSB below the ITR level (so this means the EG6 SI level) ... No reinforcement needed on your subframe and you should be good with your FSB
If you upgrade to a RSB below the ITR level (so this means the EG6 SI level) ... No reinforcement needed on your subframe and you should be good with your FSB
*also found on USDM Del Sol 93, 96-97 SI
Most people go with the ITR setup.
If you go this route it would behoove you to upgrade your FSB to help neutralize the oversteer tendencies.
Or you could just go the ASR or some other good sway bar company and purchase a complete setup for your car.
If you go this route it would behoove you to upgrade your FSB to help neutralize the oversteer tendencies.
Or you could just go the ASR or some other good sway bar company and purchase a complete setup for your car.
In this case you'd want to upgrade your FSB to the 24mm ITR/Del Sol Vtec, which also features a different/better endlink style (no need to swap your LCA's though).
*USDM ITR RSB 22mm, JDM ITR RSB 23mm
When swapping to the ITR RSB you might have to also swap to the ITR (LCA's* and) endlinks for proper fitment, but I'm not sure on this. In any case stick to OEM parts.
*this would mean also you'd need eye-mount shocks
Last edited by kristo; Mar 26, 2010 at 08:34 AM.
So I can get the Si rear sway bar with links and brackets, and it will bolt on without me changing the LCA's. I just want to go with the stock rear sway bar that comes off a Si.
Remember the EG6 SI that has the 15mm RSB did not exist in the US, you need to get a Del Sol 94-97 Vtec RSB (same as the EG6 15mm), so also not the 99-00 EK Si 13mm RSB.
Last edited by kristo; Mar 30, 2010 at 09:49 AM. Reason: corrected EK SI RSB size
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Thanks Kristo for clarifying some things up. Yes I got his chassis mixed up with mine. Sorry.
and RSB brackets and bushings, and possibly new endlinks as they may be shot.
for proper fitment you can keep your current LCA's since the endlink setup is the same between your chassis and the ITR, but you may need to change up the bushing, collar, and bolt for the endlink-to-RSB connection.
Did the 99-00 Si come with a 15mm RSB in Europe? It came with a 13mm here in the US. Interesting.
The only things you'll need from ASR (if you use the ITR RSB or thicker) are the subframe brace with or without the ITR*, ASR 24 or 32mm RSB.
When swapping to the ITR RSB you might have to also swap to the ITR (LCA's* and) endlinks for proper fitment, but I'm not sure on this. In any case stick to OEM parts.
Did the 99-00 Si come with a 15mm RSB in Europe? It came with a 13mm here in the US. Interesting.
for proper fitment you can keep your current LCA's since the endlink setup is the same between your chassis and the ITR, but you may need to change up the bushing, collar, and bolt for the endlink-to-RSB connection
Did the 99-00 Si come with a 15mm RSB in Europe? It came with a 13mm here in the US. Interesting.
Last edited by kristo; Mar 30, 2010 at 10:02 AM.
Guys, I need help. I have a 1996 civic ex with integra rear trailing arms, I want to do a ITR rear sway bar. Do I need the integra rear LCA? Though I heard that the integra rear LCA are shorter, therefore will end up giving me positive camber in the rear, is that true? If so, what other affordable options are there to a itr rear sway bar?
Stock LCA's with spherical endlinks for the ITR bar.
Or you mount an EK9 (Type-R) 22mm or an ASR 24mm with EK style endlinks.
Or you mount an EK9 (Type-R) 22mm or an ASR 24mm with EK style endlinks.
Which rear sway bar setup would you recommend on my EG Sedan...something that you can drive everyday but still take on the track for great handling? Second, is it good/not good to have a front sway bar to? Thanks for the help, been busy doing some research on what sway bar and where to get them?...
ST makes a 19mm bar that's a bolt on for the civics, it can be an alternative to the ITR bar if you don't want to switch out the lower arms.
Well Im planning on replacing my lower control arms, just debating which ones I should get, JDM ones...? Do you have any pics of the setup you were talking about by any chance? Thanks again!
I am currently runing a 26mm fsb and 13mm rsb, i love it. I would like to upgrade to a CTR rear sway bar, but the 13mm feels great.
If you like oversteer, pull the front bar or you could put a large rear bar in. How ever i can tell you from experience a ton of oversteer on the streets can be scary as hell.
Setup was 22mm fsb and asr 32mm rsb..
In either case, you should plan on replacing bushings and endlinks. They are likely shot. I used energy suspension in mine, and i am runing Blox adjustable endlinks. Only problem is the endlinks, they dont bolt on straight, you will need to washers to get them straight.
If you like oversteer, pull the front bar or you could put a large rear bar in. How ever i can tell you from experience a ton of oversteer on the streets can be scary as hell.
Setup was 22mm fsb and asr 32mm rsb..
In either case, you should plan on replacing bushings and endlinks. They are likely shot. I used energy suspension in mine, and i am runing Blox adjustable endlinks. Only problem is the endlinks, they dont bolt on straight, you will need to washers to get them straight.
if you replace lower arms either buy used integra arms or function 7. function 7 is the only company that uses a real energy suspension poly bushing. these things are night and day better than the china bushings others use. i really can't give any advice on sway bars without knowing your exact setup meaning car weight, tires used, spring rates and the feel you're after. kristo walked you through most of it so far
Did some research and heard that I can get a rear sub-frame, and buy a progessive sway bar kit, that would just bolt on...and of course im going to change my lower controls arms with skunk2 ones...wondering is that true?
Energy suspension makes poly bushings to install in OEM LCAs, both front and rear.
You can install just the rear ITR/CTR bar. It's going to handle different for sure, but it's not dangerous as long as you know it's going to behave the way it does. I'd recommend a traction bar since it somewhat behaves like a swaybar, but without the understeer of the front bar...and no need to switch LCAs. This is what I like though, the good cornering, no wheel hop and no added understeer.
You can install just the rear ITR/CTR bar. It's going to handle different for sure, but it's not dangerous as long as you know it's going to behave the way it does. I'd recommend a traction bar since it somewhat behaves like a swaybar, but without the understeer of the front bar...and no need to switch LCAs. This is what I like though, the good cornering, no wheel hop and no added understeer.
the st 19mm bar is a direct bolt on that does not require a sub frame brace. they give you kind of a mickey mouse but functional one when you buy it. summit racing sells them. got me on progress, if it's less than $129 i suppose consider it but the st bar is a good dollar to quality value
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