z10,mfactory,blox,initial d,what next?
hi
I have installed z10 traction bars,mfactory extended ball joints,blox adj camger kit(front),initial d sleevovers aswell as an itr gbox
are there any more suspension parts that I could use in bettering my launch on road tyres?
i've heard of h braces,and more versatile strut bars but have never pursued them,any thoughts on h braces and such?
thanks
I have installed z10 traction bars,mfactory extended ball joints,blox adj camger kit(front),initial d sleevovers aswell as an itr gbox
are there any more suspension parts that I could use in bettering my launch on road tyres?
i've heard of h braces,and more versatile strut bars but have never pursued them,any thoughts on h braces and such?
thanks
The "Initial D Sleeveovers" concern me. Just because you're buying parts doesn't mean you're buying the right parts or quality parts.
If you're looking for better launch check your bushings and your rear spring rate. Eliminate squatting from the rear end and deflection from the front end.
If you're looking for better launch check your bushings and your rear spring rate. Eliminate squatting from the rear end and deflection from the front end.
with regards to the sleevovers,I was informed they are made in the same factory as megan racing,ehich i've been told have similar spring rates to the skunk 2 sleevovers
but that can be questioned
suggestions on eliminating squatting at the rear,are you reffering to spring rates by eliminating squatting?
thanks
but that can be questioned
suggestions on eliminating squatting at the rear,are you reffering to spring rates by eliminating squatting?
thanks
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I understand what you are saying
but!,there track near to where I stay,is of a road/street surface.I have raced with full slicks there and my times were on average 0.3-0.7 secs slower
car is also fitted with spec stg2+ clutch and flywheel
but!,there track near to where I stay,is of a road/street surface.I have raced with full slicks there and my times were on average 0.3-0.7 secs slower
car is also fitted with spec stg2+ clutch and flywheel
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,013
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
To be clear, we're talking about drag launch, correct? Preventing weight transfer to the rear and keeping the front tires planted (not hopping or spinning) are key to a good FWD drag launch. I assume you have the wheel hop issue taken care of with the traction bars. Once you have that, you need to take care of wheelspin, and the best way to do that is with stickier tires, be it slicks or drag radials or whatever.
To take care of weight transfer, best option is super-stiff rear springs, on the order of 1000 lb/in and higher (18 kg/mm or above). There's also other little things like eliminating all rubber from the suspension and replacing with spherical bushings, but that's really not suitable at all for a street car.
It's apparent you're not in the US, so is this like a 400-meter drag strip (comparable to 1/4 mile in the US)? We typically get a time on the slip at the 60-foot mark and well as several other marks down the track. Do you have something like a 20-meter time? Stock and mildy modified FWD Hondas generally post mid-low 2-second 60-foot times. With traction bars and slicks you can get well into the mid-low 1-second range with a good clutch and good driver.
Oh and regards to slicks, they generally will hook up SO well that you really have to rev the engine high and dump the clutch hard to keep the car from bogging off the start line.
LOL wow that's a lot of info from someone who generally despises drag racing.
To take care of weight transfer, best option is super-stiff rear springs, on the order of 1000 lb/in and higher (18 kg/mm or above). There's also other little things like eliminating all rubber from the suspension and replacing with spherical bushings, but that's really not suitable at all for a street car.
It's apparent you're not in the US, so is this like a 400-meter drag strip (comparable to 1/4 mile in the US)? We typically get a time on the slip at the 60-foot mark and well as several other marks down the track. Do you have something like a 20-meter time? Stock and mildy modified FWD Hondas generally post mid-low 2-second 60-foot times. With traction bars and slicks you can get well into the mid-low 1-second range with a good clutch and good driver.
Oh and regards to slicks, they generally will hook up SO well that you really have to rev the engine high and dump the clutch hard to keep the car from bogging off the start line.
LOL wow that's a lot of info from someone who generally despises drag racing.
To be clear, we're talking about drag launch, correct? Preventing weight transfer to the rear and keeping the front tires planted (not hopping or spinning) are key to a good FWD drag launch. I assume you have the wheel hop issue taken care of with the traction bars. Once you have that, you need to take care of wheelspin, and the best way to do that is with stickier tires, be it slicks or drag radials or whatever.
To take care of weight transfer, best option is super-stiff rear springs, on the order of 1000 lb/in and higher (18 kg/mm or above). There's also other little things like eliminating all rubber from the suspension and replacing with spherical bushings, but that's really not suitable at all for a street car.
It's apparent you're not in the US, so is this like a 400-meter drag strip (comparable to 1/4 mile in the US)? We typically get a time on the slip at the 60-foot mark and well as several other marks down the track. Do you have something like a 20-meter time? Stock and mildy modified FWD Hondas generally post mid-low 2-second 60-foot times. With traction bars and slicks you can get well into the mid-low 1-second range with a good clutch and good driver.
Oh and regards to slicks, they generally will hook up SO well that you really have to rev the engine high and dump the clutch hard to keep the car from bogging off the start line.
LOL wow that's a lot of info from someone who generally despises drag racing.
To take care of weight transfer, best option is super-stiff rear springs, on the order of 1000 lb/in and higher (18 kg/mm or above). There's also other little things like eliminating all rubber from the suspension and replacing with spherical bushings, but that's really not suitable at all for a street car.
It's apparent you're not in the US, so is this like a 400-meter drag strip (comparable to 1/4 mile in the US)? We typically get a time on the slip at the 60-foot mark and well as several other marks down the track. Do you have something like a 20-meter time? Stock and mildy modified FWD Hondas generally post mid-low 2-second 60-foot times. With traction bars and slicks you can get well into the mid-low 1-second range with a good clutch and good driver.
Oh and regards to slicks, they generally will hook up SO well that you really have to rev the engine high and dump the clutch hard to keep the car from bogging off the start line.
LOL wow that's a lot of info from someone who generally despises drag racing.


yes,tyre hop,i get none of that.But wheel spin a lot of!
what springs would you suggest for the rear??
I'm not in the US,I reside in johannesburg,South africa,the tracks only give out 400m times,which doesnt give all the feedback I would like,there is no 20m time like you ask!Perhaps I can use some sort of device for this,a g-timer(measures such distances,unlreated to g-force)or the likes
at current,the car is running 13.7 over 400mwith 200whp on tap
I was also thinking of upper rear sway bars,or like you said spherical bushings all round..but I guess the most is realy done for a daily drive,just have'nt been having luck on full slicks
but drag radials hook well
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,013
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
First of all, there's no such thing as an "upper" sway bar. A sway bar goes either in the front or rear, but there is no upper or lower.
Second, a sway bar, or any chassis brace or bar or whatever, will have pretty much zero effect on straight-line drag launches. Sway bars help reduce body roll during cornering, and chassis braces help stiffen the chassis (can also make a very minute difference in cornering), but when you're launching in a straight line, none of those will have any effect.
If your coilover sleeves (I assume that's what you have) will accept 2.5" or 2.25" springs, you could get something from the Eibach Race Spring lineup. They have pretty much every spring length and rate you could ever want. But, I would never run drag launch springs on a daily driven, or even weekend driven street vehicle.
Second, a sway bar, or any chassis brace or bar or whatever, will have pretty much zero effect on straight-line drag launches. Sway bars help reduce body roll during cornering, and chassis braces help stiffen the chassis (can also make a very minute difference in cornering), but when you're launching in a straight line, none of those will have any effect.
If your coilover sleeves (I assume that's what you have) will accept 2.5" or 2.25" springs, you could get something from the Eibach Race Spring lineup. They have pretty much every spring length and rate you could ever want. But, I would never run drag launch springs on a daily driven, or even weekend driven street vehicle.
If your coilover sleeves (I assume that's what you have) will accept 2.5" or 2.25" springs, you could get something from the Eibach Race Spring lineup. They have pretty much every spring length and rate you could ever want. But, I would never run drag launch springs on a daily driven, or even weekend driven street vehicle.
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