92 Accord with h22a4 Resistor box?
i have a 92 accord with a h22a4 motor and i was wondering how to bypass the resistor box so that i can run my saturated fuel injectors? can anyone help by explaining how this is done.....
Last edited by more3688; Mar 4, 2010 at 12:53 AM.
idk for some reason my h22 wont run good with p13 and i know the ecu is good cause it ran fine in another prelude.......The car starts and runs great on my stock f22 pt6 ecu, but when i plug in the p13 ecu it doesnt like to idle, doesnt like to take gas, and also backfires and runs like s*** around 3 grand.........someone PLEASE help.....i know someone has ran into this problem before and can help.......Why would my stock ecu work but p13 wont?
Why does everyone always say to go to CB7tuner?
This should help you out with running your saturated injectors. A picture says a thousand words

If you have any questions ask away!
As for your P13 & PT6 ECU problem IIRC that has to do with the O2 sensor wiring. You have to swap the wires at ECU pins A11 & A6. On the stock PT6 ECU the O2 sensor is A11 and the EGR solenoid is A6. But on the P13 it is reversed. The O2 sensor is pin A6 and the EGR solenoid is A11. So if you swap A11 & A6 for the P13 you should be good to go.
This should help you out with running your saturated injectors. A picture says a thousand words

If you have any questions ask away!
As for your P13 & PT6 ECU problem IIRC that has to do with the O2 sensor wiring. You have to swap the wires at ECU pins A11 & A6. On the stock PT6 ECU the O2 sensor is A11 and the EGR solenoid is A6. But on the P13 it is reversed. The O2 sensor is pin A6 and the EGR solenoid is A11. So if you swap A11 & A6 for the P13 you should be good to go.
ok what if thats not true and i go try it? will that hurt anything? ive searched online to find a pt6 ecu pinout diagram but have had no luck.....i basically just wanted to verify that is whats wrong before i do it, i really dont want a burnt out ecu or wireharness......someone please get back to me soon so i can go try this?
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i think it is cause i did that and it runs better, but cel is on and still runs like s***, but is at least idleing now.....How do i check why the check engine light is on? i know u can cross a wire or something but im not sure how to do it?
My guess is that it is probably a code for the O2 heater circuit. That is the wire you just switched. There is a 2 pin connector under the glove box(94-97)/behind the side passenger side kick panel (90-93).
the self diagnostic procedure, aka the paper clip method, to retrieve the codes. Despite what some may say you can use the SCS short (paperclip) method to retrieve the OBD codes.
In my 96 the blue (service) connector is under the glove box. I think it's behind the passenger kick plate inthe 90-93 Accords???? It's in the passenger side footwell somewhere...
Under the glove box, it is in a plastic connecting cover/bracket

pull it down from under the dash

and remove it from the cover/bracket.

This is the connection that you have to jump with a wire/paper clip. After you short the two connections turn your ignition to the on position (engine not running) and start counting the number of times the Check Engine Light (CEL) flashes.
If there are no diagnostic trouble codes stored, the CEL will not flash.
The pattern of flashes indicates a one or two digit numeric code.
The first digit of the code is represented by long flashes.
The second digit of the code is represented by short flashes.
For example,
4 long flashes followed by 5 short flashes = code 45.
1 long flash followed by a pause = code 10
9 quick flashes would be a code 9.
If there is more than one DTC stored, the CEL will display them in sequence,with a pause between them.
Example,
3 long, 4 short .....pause...... 4 long, 1 short......pause.... 2 long 2 short = Tells you that there are 3 codes stored. 34, 41 & 22
It will continue to repeat all the same codes for as long as you have the self diagnosis connector shorted. Record and double-check all codes displayed.
You will need to use the Honda OBD1 code list. It is posted here on H-T a number of times. You can find them using the search function.
In my 96 the blue (service) connector is under the glove box. I think it's behind the passenger kick plate inthe 90-93 Accords???? It's in the passenger side footwell somewhere...

Under the glove box, it is in a plastic connecting cover/bracket

pull it down from under the dash

and remove it from the cover/bracket.

This is the connection that you have to jump with a wire/paper clip. After you short the two connections turn your ignition to the on position (engine not running) and start counting the number of times the Check Engine Light (CEL) flashes.
If there are no diagnostic trouble codes stored, the CEL will not flash.
The pattern of flashes indicates a one or two digit numeric code.
The first digit of the code is represented by long flashes.
The second digit of the code is represented by short flashes.
For example,
4 long flashes followed by 5 short flashes = code 45.
1 long flash followed by a pause = code 10
9 quick flashes would be a code 9.
If there is more than one DTC stored, the CEL will display them in sequence,with a pause between them.
Example,
3 long, 4 short .....pause...... 4 long, 1 short......pause.... 2 long 2 short = Tells you that there are 3 codes stored. 34, 41 & 22
It will continue to repeat all the same codes for as long as you have the self diagnosis connector shorted. Record and double-check all codes displayed.
You will need to use the Honda OBD1 code list. It is posted here on H-T a number of times. You can find them using the search function.
i hooked up the p13 and it ran like ****, but i think its my ignition timing......Im running the wrong dizzy, but it runs good with f22 ecu.....Im thinking if i get the right dizzy for a h22 it will run good with p13.....lets just hope so anyway...
Why does everyone always say to go to CB7tuner?
This should help you out with running your saturated injectors. A picture says a thousand words

If you have any questions ask away!
As for your P13 & PT6 ECU problem IIRC that has to do with the O2 sensor wiring. You have to swap the wires at ECU pins A11 & A6. On the stock PT6 ECU the O2 sensor is A11 and the EGR solenoid is A6. But on the P13 it is reversed. The O2 sensor is pin A6 and the EGR solenoid is A11. So if you swap A11 & A6 for the P13 you should be good to go.
This should help you out with running your saturated injectors. A picture says a thousand words

If you have any questions ask away!
As for your P13 & PT6 ECU problem IIRC that has to do with the O2 sensor wiring. You have to swap the wires at ECU pins A11 & A6. On the stock PT6 ECU the O2 sensor is A11 and the EGR solenoid is A6. But on the P13 it is reversed. The O2 sensor is pin A6 and the EGR solenoid is A11. So if you swap A11 & A6 for the P13 you should be good to go.
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