ok i have been doin this swap a while now and i went to turn it over like i had been after retime...well last time i tried i turned key heard pop and little smoke from tranny area...since then i had alt,batt, and starter tested all good...replaced wire harness and main relay...when i turn key now you here a click then batt light and ck eng lite get very dimm while srs/seat belt/brake lites are bright...what could be my problem

 

Make sure the clutch-starter interlock switch is working. (assuming it's MT) -the part that detects when the clutch pedal is depressed

 

tranny is in nuetral clutch and is not hooked up...it was turning over fine til all the sudden

 

If nothing else, you can begin from the starter and backtrack through the electrical system with a meter until you find the part that isn't sending its voltage signal. If you think the smoke could have been from the underhood fuse box then you should test the circuits therein. Wherever the smoke came from, it might still have a lingering smell to help you pinpoint its location. Thoroughly check the underhood fuse box and starter relay. If you still find nothing, double check on the clutch switch I mentioned. The starter shouldn't start unless the ECU thinks the clutch pedal is depressed.

 

If you find any kind of blown circuit, test both sides of it with a meter to check for shorts before repairing or replacing it. It would be a good idea to check it a second time with someone turning the key in case the pathway is only shorted when the key is turned.

 

ok...so how do i know which circut is blown

 

You'll want to get a multimeter or test light. With the meter, you can switch it to Ohms and check the resistance of each fuse and any wires that you think may be blown. Infinite ohms (what's displayed on the meter when switched to Ohms and when the black and red probes aren't touching anything) means an open/blown/broken circuit. Zero Ohms is a strong connection (what's displayed on the meter when the two probes touch). The resistance setting on the meter can test most electrical pathways in this manner, including any of your grounds. You can also use the meter, set to 12 or 20 Volts DC, to see if the starter is getting power from the relay when someone tries to crank it, if the relay has a good ~12v power supply, if it gets a signal from the ignition to crank or if any wire has voltage present. To check voltage, ground the black probe from the meter, either on grounded bare metal or wedge it into the battery negative post. You then touch the red probe to the circuit you are testing for voltage or poke it through the plastic sheath of a wire you want to test. Always disconnect the negative battery cable before working on any electrical components unless you are testing a circuit for battery voltage. Let me know if you run into any problems with your testing.