my friend's 97 accord with 60k miles started popping these codes up again after we reset it with the OBDII reader..things we did before winters were, valve cover gaskets set replaced.. ngk v-power spark plugs with correct gap, checked 2x before installation..ngk blue spark plug wires..short ram intake..

that's it..i tried to change the cap and rotor but the freakin screw that hold the rotor down won't budge..i gave that up..

here are the codes:
P0301-P0304= MISFIRE CYL 1-4
p1300 = manufacturer control Ignition System or Misfire

i don't know what the last one is...for all the other codes, i checked and re-checked spark plugs and wires..all are tight, secured..

we erased those code 2x already..it came back after 1 wk of driving..

any suggestion? could it be EGR valve clogg..??

 

forgot to mention..reason we changed vc gasket cause i notice a little oil pooling around the top of the plug's wire..on 3 cyl. don't know if that make any different or not. oil level = good..ran fuel injectors cleaner couple times..no change..

 

bump..

need help asap

 

Check to make sure that you put the plug wires back in the proper firing sequence. The firing order is 1-3-4-2.



What shape is the rotor contact in? Is it burnt up or corroded? If it is you should do what you can to remove it.

I had to heat one up and melt it with a butane torch once. You only have to heat it up enough so that the base softens around the metal screw plate. then it will pop off and give you better access to remove the screw with vice grips.

If that doesn't seem to fix anything there are a few other things that can cause the ECU to throw a misfire code.

• Faulty Fuel Injectors
• Open/shorted Fuel Injector Circuits
• Low cylinder Compression - (do compression test)
• Improper Valve clearances (when was the last time a valve adjustment was made?)

 

if your inginition is good, (check for fouled plugs) then you most likely have an egr issue. it will cause the multi misfire code and the manufacturer code and most likely an egr valve code. if you changed the valve cover gasket, did you remove any vacuum lines? check to see they are in the right place. often the egr runners get clogged, you are lucky u have the removable egr chamber that you can clear.. let me know and ill help best i can.

 

thank you for helping..i will try all the above tomorrow..i'll post back with result..

as far the rotor wires, i know for sure it's correct..because when i replace it, i only do one at a time..take 1 old off, replace with new one, plug into spark plug..repeat 2, 3, 4..but will check again..

 

http://www.freewebs.com/hondadude/95...5AccordEGR.htm

 

ok, so we cleaned out the EGR valve, replaced the pcv..found out the temperature sending unit is bad, needle moves tiny bit then stayed put..will replace that tomorrow..
so far no codes yet..plug wires are in correct order..

now other problem.

Turn car on and let seat for 5-10mins to warm up..go out press lightly on Gas pedal and the car feeling like it's choking..almost die..like it's struggle to stay on..what could this be???

only mod = apc short ram intake tube..coolant is full and have heat, very hot..will replace temp sending unit soon..

what could cause the car to "choke" like that even after been on for 10mins to warm up??? only happen when press on Gas pedal lightly or to give it a little gas..it'll choke to point of almost shut off but doesn't..

 

bump..
need help with second problem..

at idle for 5mins..did not turn heater on..shift from P to D and car struggle to stay alive..sometime die..

plugs = clean
EGR Valve = clean
run 1 bottle of injector cleaner in tank.
pcv = brand new

could fuel filter be bad?

 

BUMP PLEASE

 

UPDATE, PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
took it to mechanic, cleaned out EGR ports.
then we replaced new t-stat, radiator, re-clean EGR port by spraying carb cleaner down the ports...clean air idle control valve, clean tb, clean the piece under the throttle body...new coolant, bleed system correctly..

now it's perfect been over 2wks and no more problem