Polyurethane lip repair
is it possible to repair polyurethane or not? I don't have the money to replace it and get it painted so I was thinking maybe some of that flexible bumper repair stuff would work. I'll also need to make new tabs since those are still bolted to the car.
Last edited by 19Accord97; Feb 16, 2010 at 12:05 PM.
yes there is a way to fix it. i just learned it recently matter of a fact.
go get some plastic repair.. i suggest evercoat. but 3m got stuff too
http://evercoat.com/productCategory.aspx?cat=6
theres videos on how to use their product also
you'll wanna use the plastic repair kit... then you will use their special made plastic flexible bondo stuff
go get some plastic repair.. i suggest evercoat. but 3m got stuff too
http://evercoat.com/productCategory.aspx?cat=6
theres videos on how to use their product also
you'll wanna use the plastic repair kit... then you will use their special made plastic flexible bondo stuff
p.s
just to clarify, never use regular a$$ bondo on flexible parts such as bumpers and lips.
theres actually a plastic flexible bondo. (unless u dont care or you wanna be real cheap)
just to clarify, never use regular a$$ bondo on flexible parts such as bumpers and lips.
theres actually a plastic flexible bondo. (unless u dont care or you wanna be real cheap)
Found this stuff online http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._T|GRP2006____
but I have heard that they have a FLEXIBLE bumper repair kit which is what I was planning on using.
Here is the damage:



I planned on trying to melt the polyurethane together with a soldering iron and then laying layers of w/e repair stuff I use on the backside. So the front would just have hairline cracks. But, I dont know what I should use to "remake" the tabs. They are still bolted to the car so I was thinking of using JB Weld since those need to be super strong but they shouldnt need to flex much.
but I have heard that they have a FLEXIBLE bumper repair kit which is what I was planning on using.
Here is the damage:



I planned on trying to melt the polyurethane together with a soldering iron and then laying layers of w/e repair stuff I use on the backside. So the front would just have hairline cracks. But, I dont know what I should use to "remake" the tabs. They are still bolted to the car so I was thinking of using JB Weld since those need to be super strong but they shouldnt need to flex much.
polyurethane is thermoplastic so u could melt it a bit n hope it bonds itself back together... but that stuff u plan on using looks like it'd be a 2part repair similar to what evercoat sells as well. so i dont see why it wouldnt work. just remember. the repair stuff is just one step in fixing plastics...after the plastic repair stuff, u still got to buy some flexible plastic bondo which essentially is like regular bondo that u sand and shape. then you're ready for primer n paint.
polyurethane is thermoplastic so u could melt it a bit n hope it bonds itself back together... but that stuff u plan on using looks like it'd be a 2part repair similar to what evercoat sells as well. so i dont see why it wouldnt work. just remember. the repair stuff is just one step in fixing plastics...after the plastic repair stuff, u still got to buy some flexible plastic bondo which essentially is like regular bondo that u sand and shape. then you're ready for primer n paint.
I really just think my best bet is to melt it back together the best I can, clean it up w/ some rubbing alcohol, and use a flexible product like you linked.
When applying the sealant, should I just apply multiple even coats and let it dry between each layer, or should I use gauze like they do in fiberglassing? Or is the gauze simply used to cover holes so that the product can cover it?
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I have used the bumper repair kit and I know of a fellow who has used it to repair his M3s splitter after nailing a road gator. Its good stuff, although I have only used it on minor repairs. It's very runny so tape off areas that you do not want the epoxy to stick. Make sure the area you need to bond is clean. Be forewarned, that stuff will expand a bit after it hardens, so give it a week to fully cure before finishing. It remains flexible. But you can use it like a glue, just properly support the joint while its curing, use tape on one side to keep it together and then pour it into the crack/tear.
i would use a plastic welder. There easy to use and cheap, just basically a soldering iron with different tips
Cut grooves in the back of the crack and "weld" it up, sometimes you can use reinforcing mesh to add strength, depending on what type of plastic it is. Then finish it with flex filler
Cut grooves in the back of the crack and "weld" it up, sometimes you can use reinforcing mesh to add strength, depending on what type of plastic it is. Then finish it with flex filler
I have used the bumper repair kit and I know of a fellow who has used it to repair his M3s splitter after nailing a road gator. Its good stuff, although I have only used it on minor repairs. It's very runny so tape off areas that you do not want the epoxy to stick. Make sure the area you need to bond is clean. Be forewarned, that stuff will expand a bit after it hardens, so give it a week to fully cure before finishing. It remains flexible. But you can use it like a glue, just properly support the joint while its curing, use tape on one side to keep it together and then pour it into the crack/tear.
i would use a plastic welder. There easy to use and cheap, just basically a soldering iron with different tips
Cut grooves in the back of the crack and "weld" it up, sometimes you can use reinforcing mesh to add strength, depending on what type of plastic it is. Then finish it with flex filler
Cut grooves in the back of the crack and "weld" it up, sometimes you can use reinforcing mesh to add strength, depending on what type of plastic it is. Then finish it with flex filler
Just picked up at Plastic Welding kit @ Harbor Freight and a mini file set for $16 w/ a 20% off coupon.
Less than even eBay!
Just did the first crack and am waiting for it to cool...I am only doing one side of the crack since I dont have any money to get the repainted so we'll see how it turns out! Plan of getting some cheap flexible adhesive a support.
Less than even eBay!Just did the first crack and am waiting for it to cool...I am only doing one side of the crack since I dont have any money to get the repainted so we'll see how it turns out! Plan of getting some cheap flexible adhesive a support.
I picked up the kit at the local FuxnKragen/ORLY for a few bucks, not $30.(!)
Do not use duct tape. The cheap crap does pull off pretty easily but leaves glue residue. The good stuff will probably pull the paint off(!!!).
Use painters masking tape, its the blue stuff, sometimes HomeCheapo has a 6 pack of rolls on sale for ~20 bucks. Usually its 6-7 green backs a roll. You just need it to hold the parts together while the epoxy sets.
I am not a fan of the 'welders'. They do NOT add material, they use the existing material to bond the components. Last time I checked bumpers are about 1/8" thick. Not much material to spread out and fix, IMO.
Sorry for the late update!
The repair is going okay. The plastic sticks that came with the kit are okay. I am trying to melt the crack together then I heat it up, add some of the plastic, melt it out, and spread it. Some spots worked better than others but the cracks are def. still noticeable. I have a feeling the cracks will split again once I scrape the lip.
Just finished putting the tabs back on. I melted them together just so I could use a product called QuickSteel to reinforce them. All the tabs are back on right now, just waiting for the QuickSteel to cure in about an hour. I plan on reinforcing the back of them with J.B Weld. After it cures completely ill have to file the QuikSteel down a bit so it will fit in the slots on the bumper cover. I might need longer bolts now b/c of the layers of QuickSteel.
After I reinforce it, I only have one more spot to repair where a chunk got ripped off. I'll add some pics in a bit.
The repair is going okay. The plastic sticks that came with the kit are okay. I am trying to melt the crack together then I heat it up, add some of the plastic, melt it out, and spread it. Some spots worked better than others but the cracks are def. still noticeable. I have a feeling the cracks will split again once I scrape the lip.
Just finished putting the tabs back on. I melted them together just so I could use a product called QuickSteel to reinforce them. All the tabs are back on right now, just waiting for the QuickSteel to cure in about an hour. I plan on reinforcing the back of them with J.B Weld. After it cures completely ill have to file the QuikSteel down a bit so it will fit in the slots on the bumper cover. I might need longer bolts now b/c of the layers of QuickSteel.
After I reinforce it, I only have one more spot to repair where a chunk got ripped off. I'll add some pics in a bit.
As you can see, the repairs are nowhere near impressive.
The cracks are still very noticeable.
BUT, it will be better than them having a big gap between them when the lip is back on the car. I think it would have worked much better had I done the repair to both sides then sanded it down but I don't have money to get the lip repainted. The tabs look terrible right now, but i'll sand them smooth. It is what it is.




The cracks are still very noticeable.
BUT, it will be better than them having a big gap between them when the lip is back on the car. I think it would have worked much better had I done the repair to both sides then sanded it down but I don't have money to get the lip repainted. The tabs look terrible right now, but i'll sand them smooth. It is what it is.



It's a good attempt. But you still need to add some filler on the back to weld the crack together. Are you sure that's polyurethane plastic??? It looks like polypropylene to me. Here is a site that sells plastic repair materials www.urethanesupply.com
Just as reference, I repair plastic bumpers and headlights for a living.
Just as reference, I repair plastic bumpers and headlights for a living.
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