So like the title says, I have a B18c1 that will be going into my daily driver. It is currently all apart and will be rebuilt. I also have a B18B, which is in need of rebuilding also. So I have been toying with the idea of throwing the LS crank and rods in the B18C1. I searched and could not find any good info if the mod was worth it. Since I have all the parts to go with either set up, and both need rebuilding, it will be no extra cost to me. If I did use the LS crank I will keep the oil squirters. Also if I use the LS rods the beams will be polished and re shot peened, also ARP bolts installed. I am aware that the LS rods are weaker, and some say the crank is also weaker, but I wont be near the HP levels to be pushing either of those to the limits. The build will be a mild DD, the plans for the engine are below..

Skunk2 intake
11.0-11.5:1 compression
Valve Springs- undecided
Skunk2 Pro2 cams
Hytech replica header
2.5 exhaust
AEM 3" ITR CIA
undecided on which engine management so far

Any suggestions, will the added displacement be worth it, I know I am going in the wrong direction in the rod to stroke ratio, but I hope to gain some toque?

 

I am in the same boat as you. If you have the LS crank and rods, go for it. Ive heard nothing but good things about this setup. Remember, the oil squirters will have to be bent to provide clearance.

 

Don't use LS rods. Shot peening is worthless. ARPs will increase joint strength but it won't do anything for stiffness. The primary problem with LS rods is they were made to redline at 6800 rpm. You plan to run Pro2s which will probably run out of steam near or above 8500 rpm. That will increase the load on those rods by 56%. Over time, the big end will go out round and cause a "few problems".

Get a set of LS Eagle rods and re-tang them for GSR bearings. They are much stiffer than OEM and 8500 rpm redlines will not be a problem relative to strength or stiffness. Plus, you will then be able to use tri-metal bearings.

 

mar778c,

Thanks for the great input... Now if I am looking at replacing the rods, say with the eagles that you recommend, would it be worth it to run the LS bottom end. Or do I save the $350 and just run the stronger GSR rods and bottom end. I guess what I am trying to say is, will the result be worth the extra money and hassle?

 

I would definitely run the GSR block for which ever crank you choose to use. I believe the LS crank and eagle rod combo is worth going the extra mile. One thing I forgot to mention, you will have to run either forged pistons or have your cast pistons modified to recieve the circ clips. The difference is the floating versus pressed wrist pin. The two motors I seen with this combo LS crank, eagle rod, wiseco piston make some impressive power, 220 whp+.

Also, I am running a GSR block with RS machine pistons and stock rods. It makes 225 whp. My set-up is shown in the dyno thread at the top of the forum.

Here's a dyno plot.



I guess the bottom line is you can get some really good numbers out of your set-up which ever way you proceed. I just wanted to share a little to help you along the way.

 

Just use the GSR internals. They were designed to work with one other and last for hundreds of thousands of miles spinning in excess of 8000 rpm. There may be better parts available from the aftermarket, but you stated it would be a mild daily driver. The work/parts you have listed make for a very fun/reliable daily driver imo.

 

I am in a similar position right now too. I would use the ls crank w/ eagle rods. The shop helping me out said they just take the oil squirters of and plug them up. I have read a lot of people bend them out of the way but apparently it has to be a pretty precises bend and if its not and the crank ends up knicking one, it will break off and be floating around in your freshly built motor. thats just what dude told me so im passing it on, im sure there are plenty of others who feel differently. I have a question tho for anyone who might know. If you do this set up, can you use the b18c1 crank caps and cap bridge or do you have to use the LS crank caps which are individual and dont have a bridge?

 

you use the b18c caps.

 

Thanks for all the input. I should have mentioned that I wanted to keep the build on the cheap. Things like the cams/ header I may install later. But the bottom end and valve train I will have set how I want during the build. Things like the bolt ons/ cams will be easy to change later on if I need.

Now the eagle rod idea is not a bad one, but is going the wrong direction for me in terms of expense. It was marginally worth it to me IMHO with the stock LS rods reworked. All though I have no issues with Eagle rods and they are better than stock, but all that money for a hair more displacement, to me is not worth it. I think I will just stick with the GSR crank and rods. Mayber later down the road if I decide to build it up with forged internals, I can use the LS parts.

Thanks for the input.