How many went 2L B series?
I know there are some out there that have either gone with a B20 block or sleeved/bored the block to a 2.0. I would just like to hear some setups and comments about it using the all the Type R stuff just changing pistons or something because of the larger bore
"I would just like to hear some setups and comments about it using the all the Type R stuff just changing pistons or something because of the larger bore"
i don't understand what you mean!
but anyways i went 2.0l b18c5 just because i wanted my original motor on my car and i like looking at my motor and seeing b18c5!LOL! but doing a b20 actually will probably be better because first of all its cheaper and secondly you can safely go 2.2l by sleeving. a 85mm by 95mm bore/stroke would give you the correct displacement. Mike L from Kingmotorsports actually used a b20 on his 282whp 11sec hatch with a 85mm by 95mm setup. either way you go b18c5 2.0l or b20 you'll probably put down the same numbers! I went 84 1/2mm bore with a 89mm crank(pretty much a ls crank)
i don't understand what you mean!
but anyways i went 2.0l b18c5 just because i wanted my original motor on my car and i like looking at my motor and seeing b18c5!LOL! but doing a b20 actually will probably be better because first of all its cheaper and secondly you can safely go 2.2l by sleeving. a 85mm by 95mm bore/stroke would give you the correct displacement. Mike L from Kingmotorsports actually used a b20 on his 282whp 11sec hatch with a 85mm by 95mm setup. either way you go b18c5 2.0l or b20 you'll probably put down the same numbers! I went 84 1/2mm bore with a 89mm crank(pretty much a ls crank)
What I meant by using the Type R stuff is the B18C:5/6/R bottom end internals besides the pistons and using the full top end. Whether you sit a B20 block on there or sleeve and bore a 1.8. I guess I'm just curious about how it would run since tonight was my 1st Honda big block experience and damn it ripped. I'm not going to sell my B18CR for a H22 lol that would be *** backwards but I was thinking more displacement and keeping the higher revving and higher compression would make it potentially run a lot stronger than a H22.
Boost or N/A, your going to spend a lot of $$ regardless. This is an issue I just can't make up my mind on. Been considering the B20/vtec thing for a while but really not sure what to do. The car's been down for a while so I can start from scratch.
I'm confused at what you mean. The H22 ripped, it was fast, it would walk my R. I want my car to feel like that, actually being pushed back into the seat. I'm sure the B18CR would be pretty damn quick in a EG hatch but considering my car is what 2500 or 2600lbs I need a bit more power to make it feel like that H22 hatch. The whole point of this thread was to hear about peoples experiences with a 2L B series Type R. more displacement seems like the way to go.
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Well I know that Hyrev2nr have talked about the crvtec setup, but he doesn't know that my setup is done.
B20 block- cp pistons, eagle rods
ITR head- supertech head package.
RMF narrow header, test pipe, BCIII exhaust
Blox bpi
Stock cam
206 whp on dyno dynamics
B20 block- cp pistons, eagle rods
ITR head- supertech head package.
RMF narrow header, test pipe, BCIII exhaust
Blox bpi
Stock cam
206 whp on dyno dynamics
"I would just like to hear some setups and comments about it using the all the Type R stuff just changing pistons or something because of the larger bore"
i don't understand what you mean!
but anyways i went 2.0l b18c5 just because i wanted my original motor on my car and i like looking at my motor and seeing b18c5!LOL! but doing a b20 actually will probably be better because first of all its cheaper and secondly you can safely go 2.2l by sleeving. a 85mm by 95mm bore/stroke would give you the correct displacement. Mike L from Kingmotorsports actually used a b20 on his 282whp 11sec hatch with a 85mm by 95mm setup. either way you go b18c5 2.0l or b20 you'll probably put down the same numbers! I went 84 1/2mm bore with a 89mm crank(pretty much a ls crank)
i don't understand what you mean!
but anyways i went 2.0l b18c5 just because i wanted my original motor on my car and i like looking at my motor and seeing b18c5!LOL! but doing a b20 actually will probably be better because first of all its cheaper and secondly you can safely go 2.2l by sleeving. a 85mm by 95mm bore/stroke would give you the correct displacement. Mike L from Kingmotorsports actually used a b20 on his 282whp 11sec hatch with a 85mm by 95mm setup. either way you go b18c5 2.0l or b20 you'll probably put down the same numbers! I went 84 1/2mm bore with a 89mm crank(pretty much a ls crank)
make that x3. I have respect for the K series. No doubt it will push out some very impressive numbers. However its not for me. If I had a car with no motor and the choice to do a B18CR or a K20AR both the same price for it to be complete I would go with the K. IDK what it is I love the B series though. Back on topic I just want more power out of the R and I know its going to cost me. I figure getting more displacement would give me better results though. I wanted to go turbo and still want a turbo car, but the thing is anything turbo can be made fast. Think of how truely amazing it is to be making 110+ HP per liter all motor. Not many car manufactures can say they have done that without the use of a turbo. Ferrari has done it time and time again but look at how fine tuned and what a work of art those are. Then to be a B series that gets down? Power per $ boost is cheaper, but if you dont top the lower end motor whats the point of having your motor? Catch my drift? D series turbo at a reliable power arent all that up there. If you made your B series around the same power what was the poin of having the B series? Same with the K. Now what all motor D series can make over 200WHP? I've seen 1 ZC that Spoon built do it and that was it.
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