Oil gets black quick, burning oil.
Ok heres the deal, i recently put the motor together and i have about 1900 miles on it now.
the motor is a gsr head, suptertech valve springs and retainers, crower stage 2 cams, skunk2 intake manifold blox 68 mm throttle body, skunk2 pro series intake manifold, precision 440 cc injectors, and a hytech replica header. the block is a gsr with jdm p30 pistons, new oem honda rings, LS CRANKS, LS RODS, all oem RED main bearings, acl race rod bearings and golden eagle oil squirter block off.
i first started the car using sae30 ND motor oil, let the car warm up drove around the block and did a oil change with 10 30 non synthetic. Then after 1000 miles i switched to mobile1 10w30 synthetic oil.
My oil turns dark very quickly and i tend to burn alot of it.
i did a compression test and the results were:
(1) 270 (2) 270 (3) 270 (4) 270
does this mean my valve seals need to be changed. are there any other reasons why i would be burning oil? is this the reason why my oil gets black quick?
all answers will be greatly appreciated.
the motor is a gsr head, suptertech valve springs and retainers, crower stage 2 cams, skunk2 intake manifold blox 68 mm throttle body, skunk2 pro series intake manifold, precision 440 cc injectors, and a hytech replica header. the block is a gsr with jdm p30 pistons, new oem honda rings, LS CRANKS, LS RODS, all oem RED main bearings, acl race rod bearings and golden eagle oil squirter block off.
i first started the car using sae30 ND motor oil, let the car warm up drove around the block and did a oil change with 10 30 non synthetic. Then after 1000 miles i switched to mobile1 10w30 synthetic oil.
My oil turns dark very quickly and i tend to burn alot of it.
i did a compression test and the results were:
(1) 270 (2) 270 (3) 270 (4) 270
does this mean my valve seals need to be changed. are there any other reasons why i would be burning oil? is this the reason why my oil gets black quick?
all answers will be greatly appreciated.
Oil turns black with heat/use....just the way it is. When/how does it burn the oil? High RPMs, taking off from an idle, etc? All those will play a part in where it's coming from. Also, pull your spark plugs and take a look....sometimes that can be very clear as to which cylinder is the problem. In my case, my compression was solid but I was burning a ton of oil and my #3 spark plug was covered in deposits. Thus, a fresh hone and new rings (specifically the bottom oil control rings) and it's good as new.
In 2004 I had King Motorsports order a factory new '01 spec b18c5 short block (0mi) and had them install a freshened-up slightly used ITR head. Anyways that motor used a little oil until something like 7-10k mi. After 7-10k it stopped using oil and at 63k now it uses far less oil than the first year. I swiched from Castrol GTX to Redline synthetic oil at a little over 3k. However the oil would not turn black quickly as mentioned.
i started getting on it at about 600 miles, i didnt really drive it much when i first put the motor together cause i didnt have tags so i started the car every now and then to let it warm up. the motor has a fresh hone with brand new everything. the bottom end is brand new
i never changed the valve seals , i should of, but it slipped my mind when i was building the motor. the car smokes a little bit at idle, my air fuels at idle are at 14.7, meaning the car isnt running rich. i just want to know if its valve seals or possibly valve guides.
i never changed the valve seals , i should of, but it slipped my mind when i was building the motor. the car smokes a little bit at idle, my air fuels at idle are at 14.7, meaning the car isnt running rich. i just want to know if its valve seals or possibly valve guides.
ouch, at least drive the car to break the motor in, idling it would not let the rings break in properly.
best method that's worked for me was put it in 3rd, take it up to 6k, then let it slow down to 20 mph by itself a few times.
also, break in happens right after starting the motor
best method that's worked for me was put it in 3rd, take it up to 6k, then let it slow down to 20 mph by itself a few times.
also, break in happens right after starting the motor
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ouch, at least drive the car to break the motor in, idling it would not let the rings break in properly.
best method that's worked for me was put it in 3rd, take it up to 6k, then let it slow down to 20 mph by itself a few times.
also, break in happens right after starting the motor
best method that's worked for me was put it in 3rd, take it up to 6k, then let it slow down to 20 mph by itself a few times.
also, break in happens right after starting the motor
Back in 2004 when I picked my da with new b18c5 up from King Motorsports I asked Clayton what break-in procedures to follow. Clayton informed me they had already beat the crap out of it for abut 100 mi during street tuning of my Hondata s100. I then asked Clayton if I should stay away from the rev limit on my way back from Milwauke to Madison. He looked at me with a straight face and said as long as I didnt spent the entire 65 min drive bouncing off the rev limit it would be fine. Clayton said Its a Honda, beat the crap out of it, change the oil at 300 mi, and beat the crap out of it some more.
Back in 2004 when I picked my da with new b18c5 up from King Motorsports I asked Clayton what break-in procedures to follow. Clayton informed me they had already beat the crap out of it for abut 100 mi during street tuning of my Hondata s100. I then asked Clayton if I should stay away from the rev limit on my way back from Milwauke to Madison. He looked at me with a straight face and said as long as I didnt spent the entire 65 min drive bouncing off the rev limit it would be fine. Clayton said Its a Honda, beat the crap out of it, change the oil at 300 mi, and beat the crap out of it some more.
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