I have been doing a lot of searching around trying to gather information regarding the possible install of 8" subwoofers in the stock rear speaker location of a 1998 Integra 2 door. I have found some info saying that I would need to do some cutting of metal, and the use of baffles. I have installed many stereos (just never in an Integra) and would be pretty eager to give this a try.

So my big question is: Just how much cutting and/or work are we talking here and how much clearance would I be able to get? Enough for a JL Audio 8W3-D4? I had thrown the stereo idea out the window with this car but if I could get it done like this I think I would give it a try.

Please any opinions on how to get it done or info on similar projects would be helpful.

Regards,
Brian


[Modified by 98 ITR 815, 9:20 PM 9/5/2002]

 

there is a crap load of clearance back there, basically, behind that plastic panel, is some reinforcement bars, and then basically a hollowed out cave like area until you get to the body metal (its not that big, but its like 2.5 times the depth of your door area.

The problem with installing a 8" sub in the rear locations (i'm assuming your crossing over for midbass) is you ruin your up front imaging, because you can tell the source of the sound very quickly (in the back rather than front)

You'll also have to deaden that area, theres a lot that can rattle with the plastic to metal contact.

-Rage

 

 

That a kick *** idea. If you get it done let me know how hard it was.

 

i thought about the same thing, but i'd rather have a removable box with a 10" so i can take it out for the track. besides, do you really want to hack up your ITR? I dont.

 

I definately wouldnt call what I was going to do "hacking" it would be done very custom and (for lack of a better word) neatly. I thought about the box with a ten but I transport my road bike (I'm a cyclist) a lot in my car and need the space for the bike. Also the weight of the box isnt exactly desired, if the space is there for the 8s why not give it a shot? The stock locations seem like a good place to set it up.

Oh and I would cross them over off an amp as subwoofers. I believe someone stated earlier that the midbass of an 8" in the back would ruin the front sound stage. I am aware of this, and have taken it into consideration. I was wondering if the frequency response on some Boston Acoustic 8.5LF's would be low enough to allow the front sound stage to remain sharp. If not, are there any 8" subs that could do it?

If there is anywhere anyone could refer me too, for more info I would be appreciative. I live in the Phoenix, AZ area, if anyone knows of a good custom type shop down here. Thanks again for anyones help. I hope to get it set up here in the not so distant future.


[Modified by 98 ITR 815, 10:31 AM 9/10/2002]

 

see the problem is, its usually frequency's below 50hz that are location independant. To get those frequencies clean, you usually need a sealed box.

With the 8" subs in the stock locations, I would say you'd get more midbass (50-120) because of the lack of a proper enclosure...then again, I havn't actually auditioned a car with that setup and you might be able to pull it off!

Good luck vibrating those back seat passangers!
-Rage

 

I think that there is a lot of generalizations going on in this post.

First, you can mount midbasses in the rear and still pull off an excellent stage. Two very successful IASCA cars used this principal...Harry Kimura's Legend, and Speakerworks/Richard Clark's Grand National....both had large (ie 10 and 12" respectively -- I'm not 100% sure on Harry's car though). The GN's midbasses were ported!! So you don't need small sealed boxes for excellent SQ. Now they both used custom built waveguides, and high end compression drivers, but with proper tuning and a really solid front stage you could get similar results.

Don't get me wrong though...99% of SQ guys want to get all drivers infront of the listening area...including subwoofers. I'm not saying that rear mounted midbassees should be attempted, I'm just pointing out that they can work, and work very well if properly installed.

Second, the W3 is a subwoofer, desigened to reproduce sub bass....meaning, it will probably be crap as a midbass. The cone is probably too heavy to reproduce accurate midbass. I would look to the IB4's ... JL's 8" woofer designed for free-air application.

Sealed isn't always the way to go either. As far as free air applications are concerned.....Fred Lynch runs 4 IDMAXs IB into the trunk of his Passat....he has one of the most accurate low ends around. I wouldn't discount IB setups at all. They can be extermely accurate. Also the proper woofer either ported or ap'ed will go lower more accurately then a sealed box...again, proper driver installed correctly. Richard Clark's gn had a pair of 15's APed into his trunk.

Now, the reason why I think Rage is right in the image getting ripped reward....you will have rattles galore back there...unless you rebuild that whole panel, I wouldn't do it. There will be too much acoustical energy back there. It's the rattles that will make the enclosure localizable.

If you used some really steep crossover slopes (-36 or even 48 db/octabe), you can get your sub-bass to appear on the hood of your car, even with it in your trunk/hatch area. Too pull it of you had better have great midbass though.

Because you have a hatch, I would consider putting the two 8"s in your spare tire well, while keeping your spare in there. A guy over at clubsi just did it in his civic, and it looks slick. Another guy got one JL 10 in there:

http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...b=5&o=14&fpart=

That's the thread

http://www.sibia.net/deep/subenclosure/

That's his page.

Although it may be more involved, it would get you into the oh so fun arena of fiberglass. It would be really nice, and you could select from a large number of subs. You could even sneak 3 or 4 of the 6W0's in there.

I think that you would get better performance with an install like this insead of working with the free air application in the stock panels.

Just trying to give you some more options.


[Modified by rcurley55, 8:42 PM 9/10/2002]

 

That is a great idea and actually goes off of my original idea. I bet the rattling would get intense if the speakers were in the stock rear locations and that is exactly what I dont want. I am not sure that I have as much space behind my spare as that SI but I will go do some measuring tonight.

Can all of the fiberglass supplies be purchased at say Home Depot. And where is some place I could read up on fiberglass before I decide to jump in. I already have an amp, front components, and a deck. I just need the subs. I have a Kenwood KDC-X911, kenwood dual mag components XR60p I believe, and a pioneer premier 4 channel amp PRS-340. What would be some 8" subs that would run well off of this amp? I've had JL's and Premier PRS subs before but JL and Boston Acoustic are the only 8"s I know of. More imput would be great as to speaker choice. I listen mainly to faster rock music and classic rock, and newer pop music. Big time bass hits are not needed, but versatility is key. I love the sound of a properly set up system and some good bass guitar, and quick clean drum hits.

All your suggestions and info is helpful. The last time I did a stereo it was in a camaro and that huge well type area in the back makes things too easy. This is a little tougher but all of everyones help is great. Thanks a lot and keep it coming.

 

You really need three key measurements....the distance from the back of the car to the spare...that will determine driver diameter.

After you have that, measure the distance across - that will tell you how many you can physically cram in there.

The last is best measured with a lot of packing peanuts and a cardboard box. Fill the area you want to use with packing peanuts. you may want to use a garbage bag to help with clean up. Then once the volume you are using for the subs is full, you can take the peanuts out of the spare tire area, and fill the cardboard box up. You can then determine the volume of the peanuts that fit inside the spare tire well. That will give you a good estimate as to what will actually fit in there.

You can get fiberglass supplies at Home Depot, OSH, Walmart and Ace. These will be typically Bondo brand materials. They are fairly good, but come in small quantities and are sorta expensive. A marine repair shop will have better material at a lower cost. Also look to see if you a tapplastics...they are great.

Hope you have plenty of time on your hands:
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...&f=32&t=000549

Read that top to bottom...there are more out there, but that's a good start to get some ideas.

I'm not at all familiar with that amp, but if you may want either one 10", port one 8" - it will surprise you, or do the dual 8"s.

There are a ton of 8" drivers out there that are capable...this decision will really hinge on what type of space is available back there. I would look at the 8" offerings from JL (W1, W0, W3, W6), IDQ and ID 8's from Image Dynamics, CDT makes a new 8 that is supposed to be amazing...maybe a solobaric 8, BA, a/d/s/ 3 series, and the list goes on...the most important thing is to make sure that what you choose is a sub, not a midbass!




[Modified by rcurley55, 11:09 PM 9/10/2002]

 

theres quite a bit of clearance and as for the cutting, i wouldnt think it'd involve too much.