LSVTEC or GSR?
im in the process of building an integra ls. Im in the last phase of the build before i start in the engine bay. I was going to do a gsr swap build but i like the lsvtec swap. which one is better? i know the lsvtec cost alot of money to do it right but is it worth the price or just buy a gsr motor and do a full build with boost??
Its going to cost you more for a GSR/Boost than a LSV.......
If you really look around enough you can build a LSV setup for less than you can buy an entire GSR. A LSV will yield a little more HP and TQ than a GSR, thats why people build them. So, basically it is up to you on what you want to have and how much you want to spend.
If you really look around enough you can build a LSV setup for less than you can buy an entire GSR. A LSV will yield a little more HP and TQ than a GSR, thats why people build them. So, basically it is up to you on what you want to have and how much you want to spend.
For any given set of mods, an LSV will have only a few whp edge on a GS-R. It's not like the LS-V is 2.0L or anything -- the actual displacement difference is small indeed. When you consider all of the money that it takes to properly execute an LS-V build, I believe a GS-R build will always stay ahead. Extreme builds may be an exception, because so many internals need to be replaced on both builds. I think LSVs became popular when B18Cs were hard to find, and now the Honda world is just so swap crazy that people still do them becasue it's fashionable, IMO.
LS Shortblock (rods, pistons, oil pan, etc etc) - 125
Pistons (depending on what u want) - $125
Bearings - $100
B16 head complete - $375
Headgasket - $50
Oil pump - $60
Water pump - $40
Misc stuff - $100
GSR longblock: $800-900
Not that much difference in price. The price I put were just guesses and can almost guarantee you can find better deals than that.
Pistons (depending on what u want) - $125
Bearings - $100
B16 head complete - $375
Headgasket - $50
Oil pump - $60
Water pump - $40
Misc stuff - $100
GSR longblock: $800-900
Not that much difference in price. The price I put were just guesses and can almost guarantee you can find better deals than that.
Good luck finding a complete b16 head for $375. That includes cams, distributor, vtec solenoid, intake manifold/tb, valve cover etc. Even today for a "complete" setup it cost more then $375. Plus you then still have to worry with the wiring/ECU that you dont have. You still need things like a timing belt, tensioner, head bolts, ls/vtec oil feed line (or conversion kit) and probably a few other misc little tid-bits. However, if he has a LS engine, he already has a good many of the parts such as the block, etc....though he could sell those if he bought a GSR. So, yea, ls/vtec is probably more expensive and you have a weaker block with no webbing/girdle.
If you were going to do a major build where you were going with aftermarket pistons, rod bolts, head bolts, cams, etc. and you already had an LS block, going LSV could make financial sense becasue you'd be replacing many of the things that you'd have to replace to do a proper conversion anyways, but like 95 Integra says you're still left with a worse block.
Good luck finding a complete b16 head for $375. That includes cams, distributor, vtec solenoid, intake manifold/tb, valve cover etc. Even today for a "complete" setup it cost more then $375. Plus you then still have to worry with the wiring/ECU that you dont have. You still need things like a timing belt, tensioner, head bolts, ls/vtec oil feed line (or conversion kit) and probably a few other misc little tid-bits. However, if he has a LS engine, he already has a good many of the parts such as the block, etc....though he could sell those if he bought a GSR. So, yea, ls/vtec is probably more expensive and you have a weaker block with no webbing/girdle.
What wiring/ECU he can use the LS ECU just chipped for $30
If he gets a LS shortblock it has the tensioner and crank pulley and if its a 96+ the oil pump will even be the same because all B18s have the same oil pump from 96+.
Head bolts are as easy to come by as anything else.
If I were buying a motor from someone I would change the timing belt regardless.
Block wouldnt be any weaker. Only difference would be it doesnt have a girdle or OIL squirters. But you can find a GSR girdle, main caps, bolts, oil pan, oil pickup, and windage tray for 80 shipped. I should know because I just bought some right from here.
Im not denying that a LSV would be cheaper than just buying a GSR. But you pay for power and that is what you will get with a LSV.
Ive had LSv/GSR/B16/B20/B20v/LS/turbo/Nitrous you name it. I can speak from PERSONAL experience and not from "a friend of my buddys buddys uncle cousin."
It all depends on what you have already and what you want to spend and any future plans you might have. If you already have an LS then it would def be better to do LSV unless you have future plans to do a full build later on down the road.
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An LS/Vtec isn't as reliable as a GSR because engineer's built the GSR to be the way it is. Ls/Vtec is kinda hit and miss unless you do a PROPER job AND engineer it right. Get a JDM GSR, you won't regret it. Or get a K-swap and get in with the newer shiz.
Is this from personal experience or do you know people. I know if I were to build anything it will be proper.
My ls/vtec was actually just fine, revving to 8500sih. However, I also built it myself and had a girdle installed. I still stand by the fact that the GSR block is stronger due to the webbing and I myself will probably stick with a GSR/Type R block from now on simply because they are no longer expensive (atleast in my book).
My ls/vtec was actually just fine, revving to 8500sih. However, I also built it myself and had a girdle installed. I still stand by the fact that the GSR block is stronger due to the webbing and I myself will probably stick with a GSR/Type R block from now on simply because they are no longer expensive (atleast in my book).
Everyone always whines about R/S ratio. But in reality its only a difference of .02-3
The same could be said for a 0.035 cc increase in displacement. Hopefully the OP has been able to see both sides of the debate. IMO the displacement isn't worth the tradeoffs and to answer the OP's question I'd say that a complete B18C1 is better than an LSV, but obivously others disagree and ultimately the OP needs to weigh the costs and feasibility of either solution.
i want speed and if i decide to hit the gas it goes....and quick, money is no problem, i work on the US Air Force as an aircraft mechanic so im making some bank. i have a ls motor in the car but i will buy another ls block with a gsr head or type r head, and a gsr or type r tranny....and its going to be a full build...all new parts everything..
i want speed and if i decide to hit the gas it goes....and quick, money is no problem, i work on the US Air Force as an aircraft mechanic so im making some bank. i have a ls motor in the car but i will buy another ls block with a gsr head or type r head, and a gsr or type r tranny....and its going to be a full build...all new parts everything..
If money is no issue then do none of the above. K24 Turbo FTW!!! Seriously though, as I previously stated, regardles of what crank/rods you go with, I'd stick to a GSR block. It's only going to cost slightly more and it is better out of the box. Maybe even find you a sleeved block and run 84mm (2.0L) for a little more power on the low end....throw a supercharger on it and call it a day (turbo if you want the go power after 5k).
Sell that LS block and go B20Vtec ftw.
Since you have money.
Just sleeve the block, Slap a B16 head on it, Throw a Type R/B16A Tranny w/ LSD. Chip + Tune and call it a day
.
Since you have money.
Just sleeve the block, Slap a B16 head on it, Throw a Type R/B16A Tranny w/ LSD. Chip + Tune and call it a day
.
I never said it had to be bored. Since money is no object here sleeve it and bore it out.
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