will it work and how hard would it be if it can be done?

 

Yes it will work. No, it's not a difficult swap.

What exactly are you asking?

 

im looking to see if it will mostly bolt in or if there has to be a considerable amount of fabrication to make it work. i realize its a b-series but i dont know too much about this particular motor. i guess i should also ask if it will bolt to a b-series manual tranny.

 

any b series engine will bolt to any b series tranny, except the b series from the gen1 prelude because it is not considered to be a "true" b series. as far as i know, a b20 will be pretty much plug and play. i think i heard you need to change one motor mount, but dont quote me on that one.

 

so it should be fairly easy? what about the vehicle being OBDI and the motor being OBDII? is this going to be an issue or should that be solved by using the B20Z engine harness? sory for asking so many questions but i just want to make sure i get my facts straight before i just dive into this. i also heard about CRVtec swap. is that recommended on the B20Z with the higher compression ratio than the B20B? one last thing....are there any aftermarket LSD options for the LS tranny cuz i like the taller gearing of the LS tranny versus the narrow ITR or GSR trannys.

 

hello, i hava 90 teg with a b20b swap that is my dd, so maybe i can help you out a bit
So first, yes it will bolt right up to your ls trans
And yes, it uses the same mounts you have, however i would replace them while the engine is out, as it IS an older chassis, i used innovative mounts for mine.
you do not have to convert to obd1 if you dont want to, usually ppl do the conversion for more tuning options. All you have to do is use your old dist on the newer block.
You can also use your old injectors, fuel reg, rail,etc if you want to.
I would recommend that you upgrade the intake mani while everything is out, (i used the skunk2) but as long as it's not the (tall) manifold, you can use the stock one
Also, if you have the funds it's cheap insurance to do the timing belt/water pump..as was suggested by my tuner
It really is a great setup for me, lots of torque! and welcomes bolt-ons, not one prob for me so far, so good choice, and enjoy!

 

thanks! i was hoping someone who has actually done the swap would find this thread. i appreciate everyones responses equally though. when i asked about the car itself being setup for OBDI i was wondering if i would have to convert the B20 over to OBDI from OBDII. i was just asking becuase if i didnt have to i dont want to. did you keep yours the same "LS" setup as the factory or did you witch to a different head? If i do keep the original head on it will it accept Integra aftermarket bolt ons?

 

The swap is almost plug and play, However, you must use most of your original LS parts for it to be 'plug and play'. You will need to change the driver's side engine bracket that bolts under the timing cover from the b20 to the 90-93 integra bracket. All other mounts, trans, etc is just the same as the original. To make it 'plug and play' transfer everything from your LS to the B20 ie: complete intake manifold, distributor, exhaust manifold, alternator, etc. Best of luck, and enjoy the torque

 

I have the B20B in my 91 DA, all i did was put the b18a1 mount on the b20, swapped a few sensors and it fits like a glove. its very easy, and not too hasseling or troublesome

 

I have done several swaps like this and like HAMOTORSPORTSUSA said the best way to do it is to just swap anything OBD specific and your driver's side motor mount bracket.

 

No worries man
-i left the factory head on for to reasons: one, it's newer and flows (slightly) better than the b18a, and two, i am in the process of boosting it and would prefer to stay non-vtec because in my opinion, it would be easier to tune.
-it will accept all the b18 non-vtec bolt ons you want sir!
-i have a 35hp nitrous shot in mine!
-you can leave it obd-0 if you want, just change the dist
(i just used my old fuel rail and injectors too)
-you will have to do some wiring to get your fan to come on, (but it's easy)
(do a quick google search)
-any more questions, shoot me a pm, i'm happy to help..

 

if i do switch the B20 over to OBDI will that affect any of the power output of the B20? When i said i was thinking about switching heads ive decided if i do it will be a B18C5 and nothing less (too bad the K-Series doesnt bolt on....). If im going to change heads its going to be done all out. I plan on installing parts that are MUCH stronger than necessary. i.e. titanium rods, springs, hotter cam, etc. Titanium rods, better flowing header, and an extrude honed intake for sure as well. Any opinions on solid mounts for tranny/engine? As you might be gathering im not too worried about extra noise and other "annoyances". Oh and its going to be gutted as well.

 

im thinking about getting these mounts did you get the 60A ones how do you like them does it shake at all i just pulled my motor to swap to b16 tranny and b18b1 motor on my 91 integra

sorry to thread jack lol

 

To the best of my knowledge, not at all
it is simply a more modern obd system,most ppl change over to use diff injectors(get rid of the resistor box) and for more tuning options (like the hondata s300 for example) i am still in the mitst of the conversion myself, for my boosted setup which is a modded p28 ecu modded for the hondata s300, but i have yet to connect anything..still waiting on conversion(obd0 to obd1) harness and obd1 dizzy
The reason i included this is should you choose to go crvtec you may want to consider these parts as well. It seems you are preparing to do it the 'right' way, and after years of lurking here, it looks like many ppl have had success with the obd0-1 conversion/hondata s300 setup.
The b18c is an excellent head, and with proper parts, and research your crvtec da can be a reliable and potent combo!
I have also used 'extrudehone' for a past project, and had noticeable gains on the butt dyno!(no $$ for real dyno in the mid 90's,sorry)
I do believe innovative has 'racing' solid mounts as well, but i have found thier 'street' ones to be quite solid. I'm sure hasport has some as well, but IMO, solid mounts are not needed.
My da is also stripped, and braced so my suggestion is to start with the basics, and add on over time.
-coilovers
-lca's
-energy suspension master bushing kit
-ft and rr camber adjusters
-full-race traction bar
-allignment!
good luck!

 

it's cool, da family, right?
I went with stock replacement(black with red insert) street ones i believe?
with a b16 trans it would be a diff mount, my guy in cali is mike from pitcrew(www.pitcrewmotorsports.com) just tell him what you're doin' and he can get you what you need he had the best prices on these, and got me my stuff quick.
anything else lemme know!

 

[QUOTE=jimmy o.;41409341]im thinking about getting these mounts did you get the 60A ones how do you like them does it shake at all?

Sorry, just saw that..i love'em no vibration, and they are plenty stiff, just drove from cali to ga on them last aug!

 

I guess i should have stated my original intentions when i started asking more questions. my intent is to build everything around the vehicle (minus motor.....for now) into an almost, if not full, race set up. Im making everything unnecessarily built. Overkill = But as i said before vibrations and extra noise are NOT on my list of concerns. I am aiming for pure function over form. If it doesnt make the car go from A to B its gonna go bye bye and if does make it go its getting upgraded considerably.

 

I see, right on brutha! G\L on your project with those kinds of plans i would consider a build thread there are a lot of da guys on here that are good for info, and support!

 

[QUOTE=jasperdeea90;41409968]thats all i needed to hear just gotta wait till friday to blow my paycheck lmfao

 

yes it will fit direct swap i just bought a 98 b20b and it dropped in direct bolt on

 

Let me start by stating that for the sake of simplicity, it's much easier to refer to transmission gear sets by their respective ratios or higher/lower in comparison, rather than using confusing terms like tall, short, narrow, etc.

There are aftermarket LSD options available for all B series transmissions. If you plan on putting 250+ to the wheels, I recommend seeking an aftermarket LSD even if you are starting with an ITR tranny that comes equipped with an LSD in OEM form.

That being said, what exactly do you prefer about the LS transmission gear ratios as opposed to the GSR ratios?

Please don't fall victim to the "LS iz better for boost" misconception.

While this can easily turn into a debatable topic, personally, I wouldn't change the Intake Manifold, or anything inside the motor until you plan on getting a dyno/custom tune.

Keep in mind that prior to assembly, the B18C5 (ITR) and B16 share the same PR3 casting. The GSR utilizes a different design which is known as the P72 casting. In the end, similar results are attainable with either head, regardless of which you start with.

In many cases, it's much cheaper to start with a B16 or GSR head, and have a machine shop perform a port and polish that will usually be superior to the OEM ITR factory P&P.

Titanium rods will likely be overkill, unless you plan on breaking a few world records and going where no man has gone before.

What is a "hotter" cam?

 

Like i said its going to be a full build. As close as you can get to being a race car without requiring race fuel. Everything else however will be replaced with parts that will probably be ridiculous expensive and "ruin" the streetability of the vehicle. At least for most other people. A "hotter cam" is an aftermarket camshaft that is more aggressively designed than the manufacturers not taking into consideration gas mileage but only looking for pure performance. I would have thought that would be rather obvious with a little bit of prior knowledge of vehicles and tuning. It may be an older term used mostly by "old muscle car guys" but it still works. Anyway, I have found an interesting little item on extrudabody.biz (i think thats what it was anyway). They sell an ITB kit for B series motors. Totally bitchin. Thats probably going to be my first stop. That and they look awesome too. But that also probably means a stand alone system of some sort too. The "taller" gears i was talking about was refering the gear ratios used in the LS transmission that are more designed for gas mileage than performance. It gives you a little more room to play with and room to really stretch those legs and see what your car is capable of doing on the top end. Plus short gears aren't any fun. Im not trying to focus on what my car can do in the quarter. Im mostly looking for the top end. How fast can i make this thing go?....without killing myself.

 

Is using a Hondata S300 on a naturally aspirated motor going to make a considerable amount of difference or will it be more of a convenience? I feel on an almost race set up it would provide great fexibility (ability to change set-ups on the fly) but does anyone have any experience with using Hondata and could you tell me how useful/pain-in-the-*** are they?

 

From what it sounds like, you want to maximize the potential of this engine. Keep in mind that the B20s fallback is that they are not sleeved as sturdily as their brothers the b16/b18s. I've heard the arguement that the sleeves are weak, they're not weak. I wreak havoc on my B20 on the track, (vids in my sig) and havent had any problems. They are just "not as strong" as typical b series sleeves.

If you are serious about building this car, you should seriously consider darton sleeves. In which case it may be best just to get the cheaper B20B since it will be sleeved anyway and put some high CR pistons in it...

If it were me doing this. I would,

1. Sleeve a cheap B20B

2. Vtec Cylinder head (Instead of building one, its already assembled for you)

3. Stronger rods, I hear good about Eagle rods