So I'm starting to put together my second turbo build and I've got a decent lineup of parts going into it, got some great deals from friends. A guy I know has a t3/to4e Garrett turbo with .48 exhaust and .60 compressor. It needs oil seals but he only wants $100. My question is, is this turbo a pretty good size for a stock gsr build, looking for low to mid 300's probably around 12-14 psi?
Someone told me the a/r's or whatever have to much difference, that they needed to be closer like .57 and .60 or so.

Also, I have the stock gsr intake manifold, but no p72 ecu to control the secondaries. Would it be better to leave it, running only on short runners, or remove the secondaries, or get a skunk2 or blox manifold and ditch the stock peice all together?

Thanks

 

You will definitely want to pass on the .48 A/R housing. Pick up a .63 and you will be much happier. You can get that turbo and swap the housing with no problems.

Can't help ya with the intake manifold. I still have my stock GS-R one. The butterflies haven't worked in years on mine. Stuck open wide. Actually the head is off my car right now and one of the things I am going to do is try to figure out why.

 

So when i get the seals replaced I should swap to a .63 exhaust housing? Will that be fine even with a .60 compressor? I wonder if the cost of a turbo rebuild and housing will exceed the cost of a good condition turbo. And my butterflies dont work because I have a p28 ecu. I'm trying to decide whether to spend around 200 for a p72, or the same for an intake manifold, or if the gains will be insignificent enough to just run what I've got.

 

Nope you should just skip buying used broken turbos and get a new turbo suited for your power goals. It will just be a big mistake to start like that. From experience rebuild turbos are a hit or miss most of the ones I had that were reuild don't last long after. Garret and precision have turbos startin from around 600 dollars brand new. I def would change that intake manifold to begin with. I have a bone stock gsr long block with a gt3076r/ramhorn/victor x intake mani. ect.. making 340+ whp on 10 psi
What is your powr goal and how much do you wanna spend

 

Yaro, can you tell us when do you hit peak boost with the GT3076? I am also curious about this turbo or go with JDM s14 SR20det turbo (GT28.... - i think) thank you.

 

My budget is 2500 give or take. I've pretty much factored in everything but the turbo. My friend is letting me have whats left of his old setup, big forge front mount, welded charge pipes, tial waste gate, tial bov for 500, and he is gonna let me rock his titanium traction bars and 4 stage boost controller for free, which I will end up buying eventually. His brother has a rev hard tubular turbo mani, never used for $200, gonna need a 3in down pipe, and I think I've found another friend from whom I can get a 3in thermal exhaust for 200ish if I can talk him out of using it. Other than that, turbo, injectors, clutch and the intake mani is all thats left. Tuning is free as I have chrome and all the equipment and my other friend is a tuner.

My power goal is low to mid 300's, 350 would be great but I'm shooting for 325 realistcally.

 

Replacing the manifold would be nice, but if you can't afford it, you can solder on the components to the P28 to have IAB control on that ECU. I did this and it took around 30 minutes. I'm not perfect with a soldering gun either. Instructions are good!

http://www.xenocron.com/xenocron-add...kit-p-131.html

$5 is pretty cheap.

Otherwise if you're running Hondata or other aftermarket ECU setup, they may allow alternate IAB output on aux output pin (such as the stupid ALTC pin). I rock a Hondata S300 and have this feature too. It requires a relay, around $2.

Good luck.

Mike

 

Edit: