Basically I'm gathering my information because all i have had was obd2 and I just wanna finalize my list.

Car is a 90 si

Axles 90-93 integra
Mounts 88-91 b series specifics (ebay)
Linkage- Premade hasport or avid

Plan is to convert to obd1 p28 with a cable to hydro conversion

p28 ecu with obd0-obd1 jumper harness, obd0 b16 harness (stock harness is hacked)
innovative cable to hydro conversion
b16 hydro tranny (with some after market clutch/flywheel for 92+)
gsr motor (what externals do i need, obd1 or obd0 dizzy,IM,etc)


Basically I am getting an ef dirt cheap and want to run at the track this year if i can get to my turbo set up in time (i just moved 5 minutes from a drag strip) I have researched but have a coupe of questions left. Also I know that some people do not like the cable to hydro conversion but this car is not for daily use, just for plain beating the **** out of. Appreciate the help!

 

The GSR manifold is a tight fit in an ef i would grab a blox or skunk2 one and a type-r throttle body. the distributor should match the obd of the ecu and make sure you use the right injectors (obdo if you keep the resistor box on the b16 harness, obd1 if you want to remove it). word of advice is to have a machine shop shave your crank pulley if you don't plan to run power steering or a/c. You could opt for the ctr n1 pulley seeing how the car will be for racing only (no harmonic balancer). You will need to go with a slim fan if you keep the full size radiator (depending on headers) and if you want to use anything other than 2 piece 4-2-1 headers you will need to chance your cross member ( i used the innovative one). I would be against a hasport linkage because i have had nothing but problems from both my crx and my 90 hatch.

hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if you have any swap questions.

 

^^^ no need to get a crank pulley.. dampeners are good

stock cross member is a bitch with a swap and headers, as you can only install the header from the bottom up and one piece at a time.. sucked..

i am an idiot ---thanks for reading

 

headers were a bitch before i got the crossmember... much better now, never had a problem with the crank pulley in my 90 civic hatch but it was so close in my crx i actually had to drop the driver side of the motor an inch just to change my alternator belt. and under hard braking could hear it rub on the frame.

 

lol.. i like my dampener :-p

 

completely wrong info. you dont have to dent anything to get the crank pulley to fit, you do it to eliminate the weight of it or go with a CTR pulley, so it clears a stock cross member. Im pretty sure if you run an aftermarket crossmember (and op i hope you do) you dont have to worry about the clearance of hitting it on the radius rod (like i do currently )

you dent the frame rail to fit the alternator, which if you know what your doing you dont even have to do that.

 

Also.. my swap lowered two inchs , has no clearance issues with the radius arms , nor would I recommend, notching them like I have seen people do..


****.. i ment alt.. pulley..
wtf.. read it wrong.. posting a retraction

 

haha sounds like a good group of guys in here. Appreciate all the advice/tips. The header will be a cheaper stocky/dc if I dont get a chance to get my turbo kit by the time nice weather hits. Will look into the crossmembers,injectors, crank pulley, slim fan, etc.

My orignal plan was k24a2 into my ep3. Still need around $800 in parts for that and It has lower miles and it just seemed to make sense to sell the k24 and do an ef with some goodies. Trying to budget everything but not buy too much junk. THANKS GUYS!!! There probably has been a bunch of build threads but if my motor sells, i'll start one as well.

 

dont use a ctr pulley. they're **** unless they're on a b16b

 

i had no probs using the stock crank pully, it didnt rub anything. 2 things i ****ed up were not taking the dust rings off the hubs so the axles wouldnt bind... took me like 2 days to figure out what the hell that noise was. and also dont forget to bang in the frame rail before u put the engine in cause it is impossible to bang it in after the engine is in. i forgot and had to pull the whole thing back out just to dent in the frame rail, it was a pain. good luck with everything its a pretty straight forward swap.

 

just checked out the hatch and got some good news for it being only $100. Picking it up tonight. Has a salvage title for some reason but that doesnt bother me (will car fax when i officially own it) Has a perfect climate control and gauge cluster. Dash/center console are nearly mint. Already has a failed mini me swap and obd0-obd1 harness in it. I think im getting a spankin deal on this fellas. Will post more when i get it.

 

works just fine on my ls

the argument about these damn pulleys is never ending lol

 

Thats why I rock a shaved down gsr pully.

still has that dampening rubber inside