AAAAAnnnnd it begins again.

New goals this year. Last year I got the base and major components to start with.... I'm now going to do some overhauling in order to finish my car the way I want it. Adding more safety to me, my engine, my passengers and other people :thumb:
This year I'm going to do some upgrades to components I already have, along with a few additions


---Upgrades---
Turbo upgrade: going from the Precision 4431e to the Precision sc60 Billet (I'm still debating going with a dual BB turbo like garret gt30r, but I'm not sure yet).
Downpipe upgrade: going from a 2.5" madrel bent DP to 3" madrel bent DP
Exhaust upgrade: going from 2.5" vibrant with 1 resonator to 3" SRT exhaust with 2 resonators.
Injector upgrade: going from 680cc injectors that came with SRT kit to 1000cc Injector Dynamic injectors.

---Replacements---
Oil (lol) from 10w30 to 5w30
Willwood rotors
Calipers (Willwood or Brembo)
Tires: Kumho All-season to Summer Dunlop Direzza Z1 Starspecs (keeping at 225/45R17)
Fog Projectors (Researching) :think:
Headlamp projectors (Researching) :think:

---Additions---
Fuel Return kit
Tapping oil pan
Boost-by-gear Electronic boost controller
Thermal insulation paint on Mani, DP and Turbo (thanks Eric for the idea)
Heatwrap Mani, DP and Turbo
Heat shielding foil
Getting intercooler anodized black


The power upgrades will all be done at once, I'll just collect the parts and then when I have them all, install and then get it retuned (probably at suja1)
My guess is I'll be over 400whp @ 10psi, but I'll also up my boost to 12psi and see where that puts me.

(Old Build link: http://www.*************/forums/turb...ml#post6453040)
Pictures of car being torn apart
====OLD PICTURES====


Subframe off, ready to put on turbo


Turbo clocked, attached to manifold and downpipe and dumptube and wastegate


FMIC and SSQ BOV before tightening clamps


Turbo along with oil catch can before tightening clamps


Pic below = resurfaced stock flywheel

 

Damn that sucks......You were just saying in the other thread that you got the SRT because it gave you everything you needed in the CUT kit....I gess not. You've bought 2 turbos. 2 sets of injectors.

Looks like you are tapping the pan anyway. 2 different exhausts.

I can take my my 6262 down to 300whp or upto about 420 because my motor is not built.

My 650cc injectors and turbo can take me to 650 or so if I was built.

When did your 4431 start to build boost? Why not just pump that up to 15 or 20 psi? I'm sure that starts to build boost sooner than my 6262. I would prefer mine to boost sooner but that's the trade off with a big turbo. But I like that my turbo is barely breathing. I only needed 10.5-11psi for 414 whp

better upgrade your oil pump and remove the balance shafts to boost up past 420whp

 

its spooling tooo quickly. lol. I'm at full boost at like 3.1-3.2k
even at 30% throttle, I'll be at 3/4 boost by 3.8krpm

I wanted the bigger turbo to boost later, because on the highway I tap it even a little, and i'm in boost. I'm stills staying at 10lbs, but better flow on top end.

I could have upgraded the kit last year at the time of purchase for an extra 900 bucks. HOWEVER I also didnt know as much about what I was doing back then (compared to now)
I now have a much better feel for what I'm doing. I'm actually glad I took the route I did, cause even with the hp I have now, I scared myself shitless a few times the first few weeks. If I had any more power, it could have ended in disaster.

I'm still debating the tapping the oil pan (depends on if the new oil weight solves my little smoking startup issue when i go change it out next. I put in too heavy of a weight according to SRT, and I increased my oil pressure because of it on startup. (too much so for the turbo on cold start))

The new injectors is more for safety and better idle and better vacuum conditions, same with fuel return.

I'll have it tuned to 12psi, but I'll keep my high boost duty cycle to 10psi

So yes, i'm paying more money in the end. I really dont need the new injectors to build more boost, just fuel return alone would get me to 550+ whp (not willing to crush my fpr).

I really dont NEED the 3in exhaust and 3in DP, but its my hobby, and I can still sell off the vibrant exhaust and old turbo for sure (and maybe the dp to somebody thats looking into getting the kit brand new)

 

god damn it.. not again...

 

Larger injectors usually make idle quality worse because it harder to precisely control flow.

Weight of your oil has little to do with your smoking on start up. Their little contraption made to eliminate the need to tap the pan is preventing the oil from draining into the pan. and the pressurized oil is backing up. THe drain is gravity fed. And it looks like you are using the oil drain plug which is at the bottom of the pan which is not good.

When you tap the pan it has to be at a location which is higher than the oil level. Than way the oil has an unobstructed path to the pan....let me guess your smoking doesn't stop until the car is running a bit and the oil pump starts to suck some of the oil out of the pan enanbling the oil return resevoir from your turbo to drain?

 

I got a good feeling that a taped oil pan would solve the smoking start up. Ajp pit knows what he's talking about. I've also heard some stories about the srt shop. Read up on them in a few is300 forums or supra forums.

 

That's what the oil catch can is for so that it has a place to drain to (check the picture in the 1st post (one right above flywheel).

You see where the turbo is?, right underneath is the catch can, so gravity is draining, and its acting like a tapped oil pan because its not forcing down, it has a place to go. That catch can holds like a quart.

Anyways, I'll go get my oil changed this coming friday, and we'll see from there. Its due for one anyways. I'll post an update about the startup/smoking issue later. (probably saturday cause it has to be from a cold start)

If it goes away, then Mo (guy who designed the SRT kit) was right. Weight of oil (because its so cold), gets too thick, and increases the oil pressure. This pressure makes it leak past the seals on the turbo.

If issue DOESNT stop, then yeah. He was talking out of his ***, and you're right.

 

Normally I'd say you were right. Even I know that; but everybody that has gotten these injectors swears by them, are saying that these idle better than the 650, 680 and 750cc injectors, and are the best injectors they've ever had. I have yet to hear anybody having a bad review on them.

 

The larger injectors that you got are from ID and i was reading something on 8th about them. That company does something or whatever that makes the injectors better for the car instead getting like anyother injector.

 

I know what they were attempting and I'm not saying it doesn't work completely but when the catch can starts to fill it still needs to drain through your drain plug in the pan and that is well below your oil level. I think their logic was that by the time the catch can is filled then the pan should be partially depleted and then allow the catch can to empty....But based on your smoking it's not working. I agree thinner oil will help but not enough to make the smoking stop.....but maybe who knows.

I have it slightly if I fill my oil to the top dot on my dip stick which I like to do. If I only fill the oil up to half way then I don't smoke but I like to fill up to the top with oil so as I burn off I don't run low on oil but it pisses me off.

I'm changing to the rsx type s oil pump and when I do I will re mount the oil drain line higher up on the pan

Also your oil drain from your turbo is supposed to be a minimum of 5 times the size of your supply line, So if your supply is 1/8" your return should be 5/8" in diameter to ensure adequate draining.