Turns over and Primes Fuel- but no Start
I've got a 1990 Integra LS with a 95 GSR. Just recently did a head swap in which I had some troubles with getting it to turn over or prime fuel. I finally got it to crank and prime, but it still isn't starting up. It seems like it might be a injector issue, but not really too sure. Got any ideas fellas?
A problem with the TDC/CKP/CYP sensors in the distributor can cause the fuel to be sprayed at the wrong time. When this happens, the plugs usually end up wet with fuel. You'll want to be sure your ignition is working properly also.
Interesting. Is there any way to swap out the sensors without getting a new distributor- or at least a way to see if this is the issue?
Also, whats the best process to go about checking my ignition? I just swapped out my coil a month ago, and my plugs are showing plenty of spark with a screwdriver/plug wire check. Anything else I can try?
Thanks for your time, DSP
Also, whats the best process to go about checking my ignition? I just swapped out my coil a month ago, and my plugs are showing plenty of spark with a screwdriver/plug wire check. Anything else I can try?
Thanks for your time, DSP
The sensors come with the distributor.
To check the ignition, either buy a spark tester from a parts store or:
Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire and hold the plastic deep-well tube at the very tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts away from the plug, motor and car body. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.
You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester. You can measure the resistance of each sensor but that's not a 100% accurate test of whether or not they are working correctly.
To check the ignition, either buy a spark tester from a parts store or:
Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire and hold the plastic deep-well tube at the very tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts away from the plug, motor and car body. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.
You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester. You can measure the resistance of each sensor but that's not a 100% accurate test of whether or not they are working correctly.
If you have good spark my guess is that you do not have fuel.
Have you pulled a spark plug and inspected it after trying to start the engine?
If you have fuel the plug should be wet with gas, if not...
First thing I would check is the injectors, is there 12V+ at the injectors when ign. switch is in run?
A noid light is the easiest way to test signal to injectors, some people will pull an injector and crank the engine to see if the injector "fires", [sprays fuel].
No start, [engine cranks but will not fire] has to be either no or weak spark, no fuel or a timing issue, you need to determine which is "missing" before you can find the problem. 94
Have you pulled a spark plug and inspected it after trying to start the engine?
If you have fuel the plug should be wet with gas, if not...
First thing I would check is the injectors, is there 12V+ at the injectors when ign. switch is in run?
A noid light is the easiest way to test signal to injectors, some people will pull an injector and crank the engine to see if the injector "fires", [sprays fuel].
No start, [engine cranks but will not fire] has to be either no or weak spark, no fuel or a timing issue, you need to determine which is "missing" before you can find the problem. 94
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