90 CRX HF battery light
Problem started a few days ago. The temperature dropped really low one night and the car didnt want to start. Jump started the car but the battery light came on and stayed on, eventually the car died again. So i took the battery to an auto parts store and got it checked. It had gone bad and was replaced for free with a new one, but as soon as i started the car again, the light came on again. Only different this time! At start up there is no light, but as soon as i rev it up a little bit, the light comes on. No battery light whatsoever at start up, just as soon as i hit on the gas. And once the light comes on, it goes away at around 3500 rpm, but comes back as soon as i let go. Lights seem to be fine at 3500 rpm but are really dim below that. Another weird detail is when the light is on, my car has a high idle at around 1500 or more, but when it is off the car idles perfectly fine. I thought it might be the alternator but i also had it checked and it was fine. There is no stereo, or anything electrical besides the lights and heater which i dont use. Please help me, i just want to be able to drive my car normally again. Thank you
Contrary to what the icon suggests, the warning lamp on your instrument cluster does not light when the battery charge is low. It lights when the alternator for some reason is not charging the battery properly. To assist with a quick diagnosis, connect a multimeter's leads to the battery terminals; set the multimeter to "DC Voltage"; and perform the following voltage checks:
1.
With the engine off, should be at least 12 volts.
2.
With the engine idling over 1000 RPM (and so warming up), should be around 13.9 to 15.1 volts.
3.
With the engine idling and warmed up and the headlights, cabin blower, and defogger on, should drop below about 13.5 volts. If more loads need to be added to get the voltage to go below 13.5 volts, then this is fine.
4.
With the engine idling at a steady speed and so warmed up, voltage should not oscillate by more than maybe 0.1 volt. Oscillations of a full volt or more are a concern.
5.
Should never go over 16 volts.
How old is your alternator? It is pretty common for the brushes to have worn to the point that they need replacement. Installing new brushes is a DIY job, if you're handy. See http://sites.google.com/site/hondali...ernatorbrushes
1.
With the engine off, should be at least 12 volts.
2.
With the engine idling over 1000 RPM (and so warming up), should be around 13.9 to 15.1 volts.
3.
With the engine idling and warmed up and the headlights, cabin blower, and defogger on, should drop below about 13.5 volts. If more loads need to be added to get the voltage to go below 13.5 volts, then this is fine.
4.
With the engine idling at a steady speed and so warmed up, voltage should not oscillate by more than maybe 0.1 volt. Oscillations of a full volt or more are a concern.
5.
Should never go over 16 volts.
How old is your alternator? It is pretty common for the brushes to have worn to the point that they need replacement. Installing new brushes is a DIY job, if you're handy. See http://sites.google.com/site/hondali...ernatorbrushes
Contrary to what the icon suggests, the warning lamp on your instrument cluster does not light when the battery charge is low. It lights when the alternator for some reason is not charging the battery properly. To assist with a quick diagnosis, connect a multimeter's leads to the battery terminals; set the multimeter to "DC Voltage"; and perform the following voltage checks:
1.
With the engine off, should be at least 12 volts.
2.
With the engine idling over 1000 RPM (and so warming up), should be around 13.9 to 15.1 volts.
3.
With the engine idling and warmed up and the headlights, cabin blower, and defogger on, should drop below about 13.5 volts. If more loads need to be added to get the voltage to go below 13.5 volts, then this is fine.
4.
With the engine idling at a steady speed and so warmed up, voltage should not oscillate by more than maybe 0.1 volt. Oscillations of a full volt or more are a concern.
5.
Should never go over 16 volts.
How old is your alternator? It is pretty common for the brushes to have worn to the point that they need replacement. Installing new brushes is a DIY job, if you're handy. See http://sites.google.com/site/hondali...ernatorbrushes
1.
With the engine off, should be at least 12 volts.
2.
With the engine idling over 1000 RPM (and so warming up), should be around 13.9 to 15.1 volts.
3.
With the engine idling and warmed up and the headlights, cabin blower, and defogger on, should drop below about 13.5 volts. If more loads need to be added to get the voltage to go below 13.5 volts, then this is fine.
4.
With the engine idling at a steady speed and so warmed up, voltage should not oscillate by more than maybe 0.1 volt. Oscillations of a full volt or more are a concern.
5.
Should never go over 16 volts.
How old is your alternator? It is pretty common for the brushes to have worn to the point that they need replacement. Installing new brushes is a DIY job, if you're handy. See http://sites.google.com/site/hondali...ernatorbrushes
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not to thread jack but i have this odd problem. im guessing it could be my radio, so heres the issue. i have a newish battery, 4 months old. if i let the car sit for 2 days the battery will be completely dead. now im not sure what this could be related to. maybe battery? maybe radio? maybe clock (unlikely) any ideas?
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From: Close to West Chester, PA, United States of America
not to thread jack but i have this odd problem. im guessing it could be my radio, so heres the issue. i have a newish battery, 4 months old. if i let the car sit for 2 days the battery will be completely dead. now im not sure what this could be related to. maybe battery? maybe radio? maybe clock (unlikely) any ideas?
Thank YOU. and i will look into the eld. is it a sensor, or some sort of a fuse? anyone have a diagram if needed?
Problem started a few days ago. The temperature dropped really low one night and the car didnt want to start. Jump started the car but the battery light came on and stayed on, eventually the car died again. So i took the battery to an auto parts store and got it checked. It had gone bad and was replaced for free with a new one, but as soon as i started the car again, the light came on again. Only different this time! At start up there is no light, but as soon as i rev it up a little bit, the light comes on. No battery light whatsoever at start up, just as soon as i hit on the gas. And once the light comes on, it goes away at around 3500 rpm, but comes back as soon as i let go. Lights seem to be fine at 3500 rpm but are really dim below that. Another weird detail is when the light is on, my car has a high idle at around 1500 or more, but when it is off the car idles perfectly fine. I thought it might be the alternator but i also had it checked and it was fine. There is no stereo, or anything electrical besides the lights and heater which i dont use. Please help me, i just want to be able to drive my car normally again. Thank you
i had the same problem with my first crx... back when i was 17. Took it to Honda, and they said it was my injectors??!?! not knowing anything about cars at that stage i thought, yeah ok... whatever the f*ck they are. But i'd imagine it would be your dizzy.
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