ok I have a gsr block that I'm putting together, bought from a friend of mine, anyways he bought it from laskey racing, he only put about 3000 miles on it until he drop a valve, now I'm in the process of ordering main and rod bearings, I'm running into a lil problem, the crank is not a gsr, its a type r crank so the letters dont match up on the block with the crank, but I got a lil lucky tho, some of the colors on the bearings stayed on them. So my question is do I order the same colors again? and this build I wanted to boost it, so should I run a lil loose? I did bring it to a machine shop, they told me that it is still std. size. now the rod bearings looked burnt, does that mean the clearance was too small, is that typical for a all motor set-up?

here are the colors

Mains-top/bottom
cap1-pink/pink
cap2-yellow?/green
cap3-green/green
cap4-pink/pink
cap5-pink/pink

Rods-top/bottom
rod1-black/black
rod2-black/black
rod3-blue/blue?-guessing cuz it looks blue, hard to tell
rod4-blue/blue

block letters-BBB-C? B? last two are hard to tell.

crank numbers 1 3 3 2 2

sorry for the noob question!! but I've looking at the service manual forever, or should i just say F-it, and get ACL bearings std. size.

 

anyone?

 

Do you have a helms? There is a chart that gives you the bearing size by matching the letters on the crankshaft, to the letters on the block.

I would go OEM if possible. You get a more consistent oil clearance than the generic ACL sizes.

 

well thats the case, the crank is not the orignal crank, its a type r crank, not a gsr, and yes I do have a helms manual.

 

Look at the chart in the helms. You match the letters stamped on the block to the numbers or bars stamped on the crankshaft. That gives you a bearing sized for the block and the crank.

The fact that it's a Type R crank is irrelevant.

 

ok well I did, a couple of the last letters was hard to tell what they are on the block, but still they didnt match up in what i found in the block already?

 

The # on the crank and block don't need to match. That's the reason for the chart in the manual, u have to decode it. The letters on the block must b one of the letters in the chart, it will not vary. The ones on the crank will b the same, either one will not have something on there that isn't in the chart. BTW the GSR crank and the Type R crank r exactly the same, so it doesn't matter if it is a Type R or GSR. If all else fails just use aftermarket std. size bearings (no color code). The manual should tell u how the bearing code process works and how to figure it out.

 

ACL and most of the other aftermarket bearing manufactures only offer one size bearing for a standard, unmodified crankshaft. It is the same size as the Honda "Green" bearing. You can take this route and run all "Green" bearings, but your oil clearances will vary between journals. This may, or may not cause you any problems.

I like to keep the oil clearances consistent for the sake of longevity. I suggest that you use OEM bearings because you have more control over that oil clearance. Honda offers bearings in several step sizes, allowing you to dial in your desired clearance.

Remember, OEM Honda motors run very tight and precise clearances for a reason.

Use your helms and the chart below to determine your OEM bearing size. Buy them, and use plasti-gauge to check your actual oil clearance. Or, you can use a micrometer and a bore gauge to measure the journals manually. Here is a good engine build article with step by step's for determining your bearing sizes: http://forums.evans-tuning.com//viewtopic.php?t=326

 

ok I just plastigage the all the old bearings with the new crank i found out that main cap 2 has two different colors, can you mix the colors? do i order yellow or green?




ok now for the other question, these are the rod bearings, they looked burnt is that normal?

 

those bearings look fine, i would just order the same color bearings that was in it

 

so I can mix and match colors? what would cause the bearing to discolor like that?

 

ABSOLUTELY NOT.. Do not mix colors in an individual journal..

 

That's poppycock.

You can mix within one step up or down from another color, and have absolutely no problems.

- Derek

 

Yeah man.... that's not necessarily true.

 

Its not right and its an obvious band-aid for an out of round journal.

 

It's not that a journal is out of round, if it was you'd have issues because as it rotates it would get tight in one spot and loose in another. The idea is to achieve a clearance that you can't get by using two of the same size. Using two greens may be much one way, two yellows will be too much the other, but a yellow and a green will be right in between.

 

You must check the clearance in many directions then. Plastigauge only measures in "one spot". As the crank rotates around the bearings the clearances vary.

 

well I bought this block from a good friend and he bought it fully assembled from laskey racing, I sure that laskey knows what is he doing, so clearance checked out so I will be ordering the same bearings, with one journal having a green and yellow bearing.

 

if your that unsure about it than just take it to a machine shop that you trust... if not than just run the same colors as before because it was done like that for a reason..

 

Some motors come from the factory like that. It has absolutely nothing to do with an out of round journal.