Upper Control Arm Stud
1988 CRX
I took the front suspension apart to replace the axles and do a extended wheel stud swap. I was putting everything back together and the driver side UCA stud moves when I try and tighten it.
Does that mean the UCA bushing is bad (its a Blox piece) and I need to replace it or is there a way to keep it from spinning. I dont think I cant fit a pair of vise-grips in there to hold it.
Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
I took the front suspension apart to replace the axles and do a extended wheel stud swap. I was putting everything back together and the driver side UCA stud moves when I try and tighten it.
Does that mean the UCA bushing is bad (its a Blox piece) and I need to replace it or is there a way to keep it from spinning. I dont think I cant fit a pair of vise-grips in there to hold it.
Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
the bushings or the ball joint? i cant recall ever seeing a balljoint being sold seperate from the uca. the rubber bushings can be ordered seperate but since it's an aftermarket uca i don't know if the bushing would be different then what the stock uca would use. i imagine not, but i dunno for sure.
what?? are you talking about the balljoint or the UCA anchor to the chassis that points up into the engine bay?
if its the balljoint, you just need a new OEM castle nut, or rethread the old nut. the balljoint is worn and the threads get mangled, causing more friction that over comes the balljoint. a dirty way of doing the job is to zap it with an impact wrench if you have it handy. but i would rethread the nut. its probably m10x1.25
if you mean the anchor of the UCA, then theres NO way it should be spinning unless the bolt itself is completely sheared off and you can just lift whats left of it out. if you need to repalce that, just replace it with a junkyard piece. youd have to buy a complete control arm set from honda to get just that piece.
if its the balljoint, you just need a new OEM castle nut, or rethread the old nut. the balljoint is worn and the threads get mangled, causing more friction that over comes the balljoint. a dirty way of doing the job is to zap it with an impact wrench if you have it handy. but i would rethread the nut. its probably m10x1.25
if you mean the anchor of the UCA, then theres NO way it should be spinning unless the bolt itself is completely sheared off and you can just lift whats left of it out. if you need to repalce that, just replace it with a junkyard piece. youd have to buy a complete control arm set from honda to get just that piece.
Sorry for the confusion. All the manuals call it a UCA Ball joint. Its not where the UCA bolts to the chassis its where it bolts onto the piece coming from the wheel hub.
Ill get new nuts to seee if that fixes it. I know I probably need new ones (bushings) because the rubber piece is lose from the metal. I just need to get it moving for now.
Ill get new nuts to seee if that fixes it. I know I probably need new ones (bushings) because the rubber piece is lose from the metal. I just need to get it moving for now.
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Lmao to fix this problem you just put a wooden block on top of the uca and put a jack under your lca and jack it up until there's a good amount of pressure on both ends and you will be able to tighten the castle nut.had the same problem when installing uca camber kit
I never would have thought of that but that makes perfect sense. Im definetly going to do that with the addition of a new castle nut.
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