oke what u will need

1/8 -27 npt tap
1/8 -27 npt die
8x0.75 tap only find on ebay thiss bugger is a Pain in the a$$ to find
11/32 drill bit
and also a pain to find either a 7.1mm drill bit or 7.2mm drill bit
i was only able to find 7.1 mm on ebay i got a crap load of them lol only sold them in packs of 5 so i got spairs if ur intrested 10$ each

and u will also need a semi threaded pipe that has the 1/8 pipe thread on it on both sides u need to compleatly thread the entire pipe right threw useing the 1/8 tap after that u drill threw the middle with the 7.1mm drill bit and thread the inside now u got a threaded pipe shim the reasion for doing thiss is because the ls block dosent have enouf aluminum on the jacket where the oil jet should go because it never came with them i got photos to show so far my progress i will keep u guys updated

oke here are the pics of my work so far

tools



diy shim for block oil port



shim compleat and on nut brass outter thread 1/8 pipe thread





b16 block oil squarter holes with factory mounts for oil squarters




ls block with holes drilled and taped with 1/8 pipe thread





oil squarter added with shim in ls block






now all i go to do is get more brass pipe and washers or brass shim to bond to threaded shim and problems are all gone then just aim the jets with diy plexi target and good to go best part is u can still use LS CRANK no clearence problems with oil squarters

 

what u guys think

 

great job man makes me wanna do it to my ls vtec build, lemme know how it goes

 

'Nice!'

 

nice...but why bother?

 

lol whats cheaper and easy to find a b18c or a b18a-b lol u tell me lol only reasion the b18a and b dont last as lsvtec is oil starvation and lack of cooling because the thrust force is at the sleevs at high rpm cause ing friction and causeing the pistons to go egg shape or pistons to expand puting stress on the rings and on the rod bearings as well also ls pistons are thicker and heavy useing thinner pistons u need to cool them like b16 pistons there thin to redice rotating mass by adding more oil to spray the bottem of the pistons cools them and also lubracates the cylinder walls lowering the temp also if u look a ls has its own type of oil sprayer its a tiny hole on the rod end near the rod bearing when the crank gets to the top of the cylinder he port opens via the oil port in the crank shaft and sprays but turns off at low stroke the amount of oil os vary little by increaseing the flow u get better lubracation also at high rpm the sprayer causes problems on the rod cavitation as i found thats y the acl rod bearings for the ls have the oil port blocked off only problem with that sleavs tend to egg shape because of the lack of cooling to them and pistons expand cause ing rings to go bad early thats y with acl race bearings u should use forged pistons because thay dont expand and cool faster then stock pistons

 

UPDATE put block on stand and put oil in a container with and electric oil pump i put a spair filter laying around as a temp to see how it works so far it works well sprays well had to plug a lot of extra ports lol with jbwend other then the oil sprayers lol pain in the *** if u dont have a head on the motor lol and just a sheat of plexy glass lol ill take pics and post a vid there is one thing im going to make is a pin to keep the squarters from turning in the bottem end now

 

Good DIY,

I wonder if there will be a big oil pressure drop with the sprayers installed. A problem I find with the hybrid head block setups is keeping oil pressure where it needs to be.

 

Nice job. But it has no real benefits, in fact it could cost HP due to windage and the weight of the oil added to the rods and pistons.

 

no i already solved that problem used a thicker line for oil feed its way bigger then the ebay ones or eney kit out on the market also oil pressure stays solid i just used a transmission cooler hard line and drilled the feed close to the oil pump along the block on the out side its in the same spot where the oil sprayer channel is right near where the pump bolts to the block so no restriction full flow as long as u use a vtec oil pump i found that a steel braided line when the preshure got stronger started to move and get stiff problem was the restriction of the line was to much and to thin also thay tend to swell up inside a bit if u dont use the proper fluid that the line was ment for a solid line is way stronge and can provide more oil and avoid restriction as well if placed in proper place also costs less to make made my line for under 20$ and got 50 more feet of line to spair lol i will post pics soon

 

it is a great writeup IF you are only keeping the cast pistons on the ls-v engine.

if you are swapping to forged pistons, you dont need them. i blocked mine off, and 3 seasons later, 10.5k shifting, still goin strong.

 

thats true as well but most people that bitch lsvtec is not reliable are the ones who done swap there pistons and use oem pistons and rev the crap out of it lol then u wonder y did it blow lol thiss is for the people who want to use oem parts and want to keep it runing for more then 1 year or more then 2 years beating on it with oem parts lol

 

Idk 3 years of 9.5k rev on my b20 with cast pistons. Still strong, who knew.

Great DIY tho. I can see where they are beneficial